psi

Toque x Revs = horsepower. So, RB20 doesn't have mcuh torque, so rev the poor little thing as hard as you dare! In order to rev really stinking hard, it will really want to breathe.. This thread doesn't seem that silly when you boil it down. Sure, there may be a better way of getting the airflow your after, but I cant see the issue with starting with a head that already is known for lots of air and has a massive amount of parts you can buy off the shelf to help you. Issues doing any kind of build will always bugg you, but i bet everybodies jaw would hit the floor if they got past by an RB20 revvvvving @11 000rpm.. or higher! The sound would be like an R1 on roids. Say good bye to any spare time and all your cash! but you sure have proved one thing, nobody is going to beat you to it! I say Go for it..

on my dirty old VL, I used to run a small bottle that was pressurised by boost with a one way valve, and I ran a windscreen pump(discovery washer by memory) to a very small agg spray nozzle. the nozzle made a tiny jet of water that swirled/spiraled. When the jet hit something, the stream exploded into mist. I fitted this set up with a pressure switch and ran mostly water/meth through it. It sprayed onto the wall of the pre-turbo piping. 1: very crude, but worked a treat (until water ran out!) 2: never noticed real damaged compressor wheel. 3: water pressure wasnt high enough, sometimes got water droplets on the side of the pipework. 4: needed a much higher pressure pump to make a better mist. 5: The added boost pressure made a HUGE difference in the queality of the mist.. 6: The next owner pulled it down to port the head and said that every thing inside the whole engine was SPOTLESS! He said the valves looked like they had just been installed and the pistons looked brand new! hahaha, not bad for an engine with 310 000km on it! Yep, I'm a fan of water injection, from the power increase ability of it, and also at keeping everything so clean..

your fine.. When I hi-mounted my turbo, I used these lines! my car has been running the hi mount for about 4 years with daily driving and track days, no sign of problems!

I drilled into the end of the bush which faces the front of the car. This means that no fileings goes in side the engine. all you have to do is pull the plug out. modify it and push it back in. job done

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...er-t251669.html this is my RB25Det head, but should be close. check out what i did..

I have a tool that has a bit that inserts into the bush and i nice shoulder to 'push' the bush with when i hit it with the hammer. I simply put the bush onto the end of the tool and tap it until it is level with the back of the crank.. i think? (by memory i think thats what i do.. haha, I dont even think about it when i do it.). It shouldn't go all the way in. yes it will be tight. but if you get it cock-eyed, then you will have issues. Also, dont just hammer the end of the bush with the hammer, it will put a nasty bur on it! Use a socket or brass bar between the hammer and the bush. does that help?

did any of you wise cracks check to see he didn't have a water to air intercooler?? Cos if he did, you would all look kinda stupid! hahaha.. Leave him alone and help him get on with it..

I use an old VL input shaft as a clutch tool on my RB25, i goes straight in, no issues. does that help?

I think you will find that GTR's have different axles. and they have a 6 bolt flange.. think the gears are the same..? try this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Di...et-t250231.html

It does't really affect it that much.. the best thing about this mod is this, If you dont like it, its a quick job to return it to stanard!

yea, I ate a few for awhile and couldn't seem to beat it. We thought about fuel as an issue, and then heat. I noticed that everything around the sensor was cooking, so I fitted a body washer between the oxy sensor and the pipe. Then I wrapped the pipe and this seemed to keep the thing cooler and its been in there for two years now..

I read about these in an old race car engineering book I have.. I forgot all about them, thanks for bringing it to our attention!

I see you point Dan.. Thanks! I was getting a bit over it!

Yea, I looked at that.. But I was totally stumped when I spent over an hour on the phone and a few hours on the net and NOBODY listed it! I have seen lots of people who have done this mod, and I was shocked that I cant find a fitting. I can make the fitting, I'll have to buy a few bits to do it, but it looks like I gonna have my own little market for this! That is just the tip of the iceberg however, while I was looking, I also couldn't find a single fitting with a tapered BSP thread that has an 'AN' fitting on the other side of any size. that means that I couldn't find any fittings that join an 'AN' fitting to anything that bolts into the engine. Oil or water.. All the 'AN' threads I found were parrarel.

The fitting in the side of the block is a tapered 3/4 BSP thread.. Nobody (that i can find) makes a 3/4 tapered bsp fitting with a AN -10 or -12 male on the other side... To 'jam' a 3/4 BSP parrarel thread into it is just plain dodgy, and you always run the risk of the damn thing leaking, not to mention that most of the thread will not be used and looks terrable hanging out. Does anybody know where I can get a fitting, otherwise, I guess I'm gonna have to buy some tooling and make up a few and sell them to cover the costs.

Could somebody replace the 2008 sticky with this thread please?

I was digging in some old notes from the car, we actually used two sets of 2nd gear! One set out of a VL and the other is unknown (I didn't add that bit!) Gonna try and put more of it in words.. the jist of it anyhow look at your torque curve, take note at where in the rev-range it starts and finishes.. can also be good to look at the HP. if 2nd finishes at say 6000rpm, and when you pull 3rd it is already in the meat of the torque curve say 3500, then the car will have power everytime you change gear.. if you change at 6000. bring 2nd gear change back to 5000 (short shift) and then 4000 to see where the overlap happens, you will notice that 3rd will also get lower in the rev range. It will eventually get to low and 'fall' off the torque curve. This is the point that you want to avoid.. This is the plot for the setup you have now, then if you fit a taller ratio, the gearing overlaps will be spread apart, a very low ratio will eventually enable you to jump gears.. 2nd to 4th. If you know all your gear ratio's (box and diff), and rolling tyre distances, there are formula's to calculate it all out with ease. and while your there.. the same basic formula will be able to estimate your 1/4 mile times, and at what revs you go over the line! Now, I'm not racing my car, I'm after less revs @ 100km/h, which should give me more fuel ecconomy. The same formula is used.. I got my copy of the info from an Edelbrock site years ago. If I find it, i'll post it up. does that make sense? I was only asking because I was curious to see how others found the set up in the real world with traffic lights and other road users.. (too lazy to look for all the ratio's and spend half an arvo crunching the numbers!)

yep.. looked at 2 in the last few months.. Send me a pm, we'll chat mate

Gearing can be interesting sometimes.. When we were playing with different cams in the speedway car (RB30), we found we could 'tune' the diff to suit the torque curve of the camshaft.. the smaller cams come on earlier and tended to run out of puff before the end of the straight, so we would gear it up. With the bigger cams, midrange torque was down a little but top end was great, so we fitted a lower gear set.. I remember pouring over the dyno sheet of different engine combo's and cross referencing the info, we would record peak and average RPM (with a little black box) and transfer this info onto the dyno pages.. We were aiming to have the 2 and 3 gears (we changed them around a bit, 2nd from a VL, and 3rd from a pintara i think) 'overlap' in the meatier part of the torque curve. we could then use the diff gears to move the shift points up or down in the rev range. This meant that if we were stuck in traffic, we could short shift up or down a gear and use the torque to help pull around a slow car.. So, the diff ratio, the torque curve and the gearing in the gear box all made it possable to make a useable package. In our case with a turbo road car, the torque curve is largly dictated to use by our turbo choice, gearbox gears are pritty much fixed and we have an oppertunity to change the diff ratio... I started this thread to see what others had used, how it all translated into the real world and use the info as a good starting point. does that help anybody? haha..

I took my head into the local sheet metal shop late on a friday arvo to get welded.. The bloke asked for $20 cash and I got no receipt.. His deal was: I took my $20 and some of the boys petty cash to the bottlo and came back with a carton of the good stuff... So, $20 for a welded oil port.. and they finish filed it aswell! Use your head a bit, be nice and explain what your tring to do, and some people will try and help you out..

The thinner end of the plug faces the oil from the cam buckets oil gallery.. I drilled the 2mm hole in that end (as you will be able to see in the 1st foto). The hole is only long enough to clear the first part of the plug. In the second foto of the plugs, you will see the hole in the 'shaft' part of the plug. This is were the the oil will be feeding oil in from the cam bucket oil rail and into the port where we need the oil. The oil used to come in from the bottom (which I welded) up past the plug and then continue up into the cam bearing.. So, no the oil feeds in through the plug, & the rest of the oil system is untouched.. and I reduced the amount of oil going to the top end which everybody is also wanting to do.. Does that make sense? Edit: If you want to do this mod, dont make my mistake and drill too far into the plug. Its only 12mm long in the thick end (this is the end that you will see) Only drill 8mm or so, tap it with a small tap (3/16 is what I did.. it works a treat, or something about that size) and then you can just reuse the same plug!

I was amazed at how quick it was to do.. If you dont drill and tap as far down the original plug like I did, you will be able to reuse the plug and drill the new oil holes like my new plug and re-insert it. It wont cost you a single dollar! All done (even if you stuff around) in well under an hour.. How great is that? No external oil lines or fittings or any possablity of anything leaking and having it all going wrong! It keeps the VVT working as per normal, there is nothing on the outside of the engine to give the RB30det secret away (other than the height) and it will all look like it was made like that.

not that it really bothers me, but did you do the diff swap after your RB30det was installed? I'm wondering if you can give some feedback as to the difference in the gearing on the road, and how the 'feel' changed..? cheers

ohh, I used a 3/16 bolt as a puller to pull the plug out. Its just a bolt I had in the tool box and I had a tap to cut the thread that matched. I spaced it out from the plug with a socket.. It wasn't overly hard to get out. It was all a bit easy, and if I ever do it again, I reckon I could do the hole job in about half an hour! (now I know what I'm looking at!) Cheers, I hope it helps a lot of others out!

Now for a few more pics.. the pink filled bit in the cam journal is where the oil is fed into the bearing (that now comes from my new mod), and the Green bit is where the oil is fed to the VVT.. The pink circle is where the new plug will be inserted. The brass plug is the return oil passage from the VVT solenoid to the head.. not much exciting in there, but I just wanted to look in there!