DECIM8

I think the point he was making is that he cant afford one.. thats why I suggested it..

nengun.com is cheapest or sliding performance on these forums

You wont find a Jap brand which leaks.. Unless its been forced too. Get one with a thermostat which activates and begins oil flow.. will work better for driving around off boost in winter and track days you wont have a problem. This will stop destroying your oil 130degrees is were it begins to break down. Also the thermostat will prevent cooling the oil to much for good engine lube. I did some research awhile ago and found that the best option was a HKS type S (or R very similar I believe it comes with a oil filter relocator, which is really only needed on a GTR.) or Greddy/trust option. Ranging from $500-700 cheap in comparison to the $400 rip off ones.. a few hundred more $50 in postage nets you a headache free option. Most other people get a cheapo oil cooler and get earl fittings etc and braided lines which are from what I hear good quality. This is as much as I know.. Oh im sure you can keep the stock gauge but not sure.. Honestly it does not give the most acurate reading however, in particular flow presure gauge.

Dont buy it I think he means..

Does that say 4racin? I thought 4 doors where the drifters choice.. hmm

If everything is setup correctly then you wont have an issue if boost is bled off at the right amount you will be fine.. http://autospeed.com/cms/A_1053/article.html

Increase the length of the hose connecting to the actuator.. about 2 meters at max.. This will get boost up quick.. It may spike but if thats what you want it will work

Yeah R34 Thermostat is #21200v7205 I must mention when I said its better it will raise the temp thermo temp to 82 degrees.. not drop it.. Depending on your circumstances it may not be a good idea. A upgraded turbo/cam or generally highly modified car will not be happy with it as it will take abit to cool her down... if you running stock ecu id suggest you stick to the R33 one (if thats your car) which runs at about 76.5? from memory better for intake charge for one. If you upgrade to a r34 one it will fire settings off at the wrong time, supposedly this is bad in some way.. ecu acts as if its on crack. Im buying a new radiator now, will install the old thermostat and let you know if I have any change.. I run into 90 degrees atm its frezing cold btw so not to good.

^ Dont suggest that! lol Ive heard more than the items stolen from your warehouse.. I dont know how realistic it is but ive heard the people involved were selling parts in their back yard at very cheap prices and several cars had been recovered which had gone "missing" Any truth to this?

No joke? Ive just left mine in the rain for ages.. Perhaps I should contact him.

Hey you cant blame me ive got two visual readings a real life explaination and a online spurt of infomation... what would you pick At least i didnt have to take it back.. again. Anthony I see you on .. Ill give you a call tommorow.

Rebuild.. By any chance have you mentioned your pay packet to your tuner? Sounds like thats what hes chasing rather than a power figure.

Its fixed... Well I think 2nd and 3rd gear to 7g I record Max 20 knock.. 4th might be a different story but its pretty obvious ill only reach that on track. Will have to see when it starts to heat up a little. And I think you were right. Thanks!

Seems your right Paul.. I apoligise for listening to the tuner.. as he said everyone makes mistakes.. . Seems ive fixed it .. Disconnected commander > Started car> Reved+ idle>Shut down!! > Reconnect I think the main issue was not running side by side but leaving the car running while the datalogit was disconnect + commander and reconnecting without turning off engine..

Right.. Well he didnt want a peice of it .. Would there be longterm implications to my controller because it was run in this dual setup? I.E high readings.. I.E Invisable knock?

Also Paul mentioned before that the PFC and Datalogit fight for bandwidth.. This is incorrect the PowerFC is diabled at hand controller when Datalogit is on.. The functions and data going to the controller are frozen.. I suggested your suggestion and it was proved to be wrong, thanks for the info though. My problem is Datalogit results 18knock Hand controller = 100 knock.. How can there be so much difference when it comes out of the same damn sensors?

Id also ask some of you to think outside the box.. If its not knock what could it be.. Just like a detective we have to eliminate other things.

Strange as he seems to think its very very very safe and its now running 261.5.. Really nothing but still. So no one really backed up there claims with Yes Im a tuner.. Should I be taking it to another tuner? Knock is any metallic sound so It could be a million things.. FYI I got 125 knock so that would be audiable.. They even increased the timing stupidly and datalogit recorded 90 knock when they could just hear it.. From what I understand the hand controller is wrong.

Interesting posts.. Im getting the waste gate fixed monday if Anthony can fix me up.. Ive come to two guess-timates.. 1) Ive got a forged rebuilt engine - Fat chance.. 2) The wastegate is causing the knock as it tries to hold close, as it only knocks after 4grand and when I launch it very hard. Now Ive got no idea if the second is at all plausable but ive had the engine going bonnet up and hit just about everything I can find.. Clueless. Now Id tend to believe the tuner over any of you however Id firstly like to ask how you know this you tune too? My car is fine crusing and I even went Nasho last night with 29 knock not really hammering though.. But today I registered 72 cant hear a damn thing. WTF IS IT?! Should I take it to another tuner?

They start at different temps.. basically it .. warms up quicker.. R34 that is better for road driving obviously.

Just buy a R34 One .. is more efficent than r33 ones. Ive got a similar problem of the temps hitting 90 when boosting.. Should I .. A) replace thermostat. B) replace the radiator c) burn the car.. grr

It spools less than that but dyno'd its full boost at 4g exactly... Interesting as its obvious id be pushing alot more air... Neo engine and all.. Prob wastegate..

The Actuator is an aftermarket HKS item that is a bolt-on replacement for the stock item. It has a threaded pushrod so that the wastegate preload can be wound up and hence boost increased. Sort of like putting an R32 actuator on a R33 turbo but fully adjustable and looks stock. I love google..

Yeap.. Supposedly couldnt tune it out.. I guess I can turn it up lol

Alright thanks Paul, No wonder you wrote that PFC manual thingo.. Now anyone know where I can get a R33 adjustable wastegate? Dave its not a vq30 wastegate on there is it?