jrm

If I recall correctly, the brake pedal cover just slips over the top of the regular ER34 one.

I'd love to hear more information about the 'Porsche GT3 brake guides' - where you sourced them, how hard they were to fit up, any more photos, etc. There's been lots of options for air-guides discussed on SAU - with some UAS options discussed, and home-made options discussed in various threads - but this is the first I've heard of something like this fitting off the shelf. Keen to hear anything you wish to share.

I moved to the ACT area around a year ago from Adelaide. The Adelaide scene had pretty much died off before I moved, and everything seemed to be younger people that would meet-up/talk via Facebook. Seems to be similar here. I guess I'm kinda old and boring these days, though. Only 13.5 years of Skyline ownership (and sau.com.au membership) for me

I believe PWR do a return-flow intercooler for these cars too (PWR PWI2204 for R34 GTT, at least). Does anyone know if these have the same restrictions as the Blitz, and other return-flows?

Well, searching that part number online came up listed as 'Permanently out of stock'. Googling for '503756-0120' definitely finds lots of images of these filters! It also lead to this thread on gtr.co.uk (https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/r34-pollen-filter.58381/#post-515069 ) : The thread continues on talking about these 'electrical type' filters that use anti-static - and how impossible to get / expensive they are (and that was 2006). So I guess that answers what you have, at least. This image shows apparently an extra bit in the AC display apparently relating to it: And there is some interesting translated Russian about possibly a Laurel and the operation of this particular style of filter - and that they're impossible to get / find. Anyway, it sounds like if you're not happy with the filters you have now - it would be easiest to source the housing for the regular filters, and use those instead?

So there are also two different parts on that Kudos page AY684-NS002 'Pollen Only' AY685-NS002 'Pollen, odour and allergen' Interestingly enough - the diagrams for those are a little bit different: AY684-NS002: AY685-NS002: But I think that's just a red-herring - as these filters are both the same size/thickness and fit the same. Looking at your filters / those in the video - they're very very different. From previous threads on this: Which is far more consistent with: Another interesting note - in the video, we see cabling or something coming out of the filter: Which isn't consistent with other threads on this topic: So - something is a bit different/weird here. It may be you'll need a different housing to fit those style of filters. I poked through diagrams and stuff and couldn't see any versions of filters like that - but maybe someone else has an idea or has seen this before. The 'cold climate options pack' perhaps that another poster mentioned?

I was googling that earlier today because the NEO is a different size to others, and found https://www.speedpro.com.au/products/speedflow-fittings-and-hoses/aluminium-adaptors/-10-press-in-adapter-for-rb20-black which states "R34 Skyline requires 708-10-02-BLK fitting" and that leads to https://speedflow.com.au/press-in-adapters-to-suit-nissan-covers-from/ So if you this guy doesn't do them - that may be an option.

Bumping 6 year-old posts ftw.

Not to bump a massively old thread - but this is what PRP publish: https://platinumracingproducts.com/pages/platinum-racing-products-r35-dwell-settings

Not sure if this is much discussed around here, or how legal this is - but there's a lot of information around online anyway. Odometer data on most of these cars is stored on an 8-pin EEPROM inside the dash cluster. It's on the inside side of the board - so you'll need to remove the PCB fully to get to it. It's typically something like an 93c56 EEPROM chip. Inside the chip, the data itself is stored in a certain way with checksums, etc that some people have figured out how to re-write the odometer data successfully - using an EEPROM programmer (like a TL866II Plus). Having said all that, it should be possible to simply desolder the chip from one dash cluster and swap it into another dash cluster. For ease of swapping them - you could even put an 8-pin DIP socket in its place to make it easy to swap in and out in-case you needed to reverse it for whatever reason or it didn't work. I can't say what other configuration information may be stored on that chip which may affect operation, and I've never personally done it - but if you're desperate - this is something you might consider. This thread has some additional information that may help:

I moved to the area in the last year - but mine doesn't get out much. It's a bit sad how much the Skyline scene has died all over the country from what I've seen. It had pretty much died in South Australia before I left - and it's sad to see it's not much better here.

Does this count?

You're 100% right. And I want the car to go faster.

With these crazy prices, it makes me wonder if I should be re-thinking getting my nistune upgraded for e-flex

Been several years since I read this thread, and bought the lens from 3dlens. I finally got around to it today. Went pretty smoothly, and I"m happy with the results. I had a few issues - but nothing show-stopping. I had some glue residue on the screen from removing the polarising layer - and some polarising bottom layer got left on the screen when I was peeling it off- requiring *very* careful removal with some 99.9% isopropyl wipes (thankgod i do electronics repair as a hobby). I also unfortunately had some permanent damage to the LCD layer from the extremely damaged polarised layer - which left some marks on the screen which could not be removed. However, once the new polarising layer was put on (be careful with that direction too - cos for me, it changed when you remove the protective layer) - and then the glass layer - it was barely noticable. Overall, a pretty straight forward project - and I'd recommend it to anyone who has an MFD with still a 20 year-old screen. Do it as soon as you see any weirdness - as the polarising layer is breaking down and may damage the LCD. I'd post some pics, but honestly, the first post covered everything required. The only other thing of note was I used some thin sellotape double-sided material to hold the top glass/plastic layer on - as its what I had handy - and is very thin and durable (it's white on the outside with blue writing saying 'peel backing to expose adhesive'). Oh - one thing for anyone who cares - the the size of polarising film I cut out was 75mm x 130mm approximately - to give anyone in future an idea how much material you need. I bought the matte 17" stuff - and it looks great, and had plenty of material leftover - especially handy as I did get caught with the polarising film being the wrong direction the first attempt. It pays to double-check these things

It's a bit late, but are these two still available?

Is this the same as the https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/273533325819 kit on eBay? Any discount for us SAUers? haha. Does anyone know how they compare to other approaches? https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/nissan-rb-high-output-alternator https://www.rhdjapan.com/ard-low-resistance-high-output-alternator-z31-r31-r32-r33-r34-c34-c35-wc34.html The main benefit I could see of the LS1 + adaptor approach is once you have the bracket, adapter, pulley, etc - if the alternator ever needs replacement you can just pick up cheaper LS1 140A alternator?

Very sure it doesn't pick anything up off the bus - cos it doesn't connect that way at all. When I put an MFD in my R34 GTT - I had to connect it into the ECU and behind the dash- though I imagine it's slightly easier on an R34 GTR, as the wiring looms are already there - those are the signals it's expecting to receive - not something on a bus. This page has a lot of information that might help, including pin-outs, etc.

... What about the nismo upper arms?

I was looking at my alternator wiring last night, and saw that at least on my R34 GTT there are two small white wires from the positive coming out of the alternator going into the fuse-box to an 80A fuse there (Looks like a PAL fuse?). This would obviously need to be replaced with larger wiring with a larger alternator, and the fuse replaced with a larger one. Is that what others have done for their larger alternators, or have people simply been wiring it straight to the battery, and bypassing the factory fusing, etc?

Honestly, it's mostly about getting as much amperage as I can get. Big stereos are a massive burden on batteries and alternators - so I'm just keen to get something BIG. Unfortunately, massive high-output alternators like you get in the US don't seem to be a big thing here (like 200-250-300A+). It mostly seems to be limited to around 150A for skylines. The LS1 conversion/mount option would leave open US LS1 options - but then I gotta deal with postage/warranty/etc. Anyway all - thanks for the input you have :)

Sorry for the thread bump - but has anyone actually tried one of these? I've been eyeing off alternator options - LS1 mount / pulley conversion, this ARD alternator and the one from Frenchy's Garage (https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/nissan-rb-high-output-alternator). It's a bit of a struggle to figure out what's the best path forward. LS1 conversion would mean I could fit any LS1 alternator - but they mostly seem to max out at 140A in a reasonable cost in Australia. the Frenchy's Garage and ARD are 150A - which would be a good improvement. I'd prefer to buy in Australia for warranty / support if I can. Anyone have any thoughts?

I found this in another thread about removing the airbag - Which doesn't bode so well for the wheels being the same with regard the horn / clockspring - and I'd need to find an auto clockspring to change over as well to add steering wheel controls. Sounding like a lot of cost & effort!

Good to hear about there apparently being separate momentary lines for each button - that makes things simpler. So I guess the only question for me is going to be whether the clock spring on a manual vehicle has a single line for just the horn, or the 5 lines for the 4 switches + horn. My plan if that is true would be to wire up a box to take input from those 4 inputs, and output that into a standard way (perhaps as Chris said much earlier in the thread with different resistance values per button) - as that would make it easier to fit in with an aftermarket stereo. Thinking about it then, you could even have different functions for long/short-press or buttons held together, and all sorts. Something to mull over Anyway, thanks for contributing!

Bumping a massively old thread, but did anyone successfully get this working with an R34 steering wheel,? Importantly, does anyone know if the wiring is available in the loom for R34 manual -to allow for those extra wires for tiptronic control?