jrm

If you look in your engine bay over on the passenger-side, near the right strut tower, you should have something like: In that image, they have a bit circled in red on it, that silver thing is the boost solenoid. In that image it's been unplugged on one side (not sure why). I've taken that image from the thread about how to force high boost mode: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/42895-howto-rb25det-high-boost-mode-with-standard-solenoid/ Anyway, Can you confirm if the plug coming out of that is plugged in, whether it has boost hoses hooked up still, etc? It also may have been completely removed when they added the other boost controller though. The other thing is, with the bigger exhaust system, the wastegate may have trouble holding the boost steady at 5psi. Either way, that you're only hitting 7psi is a good start - how is it running like that anyway, now? Any thoughts on the leak-down compression tests, turbo shaft play, etc? Would think someone in NSW section would be able to point you at a local competent tuner to visit for advice.

The factory wastegate on your car should be set at 5psi - so this is the 'default' boost that the turbo will run at. However, there is a factory-controlled boost-control setup in our cars that activates at 4500rpm. When this solenoid activates on the boost/vacuum lines, it will bleed air and the boost will increase to approximately 7psi from 4500rpm up. This does not relate to the factory boost gauge in the dash. If you have an aftermarket boost gauge, and the boost controller you have is disconnected, you should hopefully be hitting 5-6psi on boost - though you've previously mentioned 7psi. If you push it harder, does it go beyond this? Makes me wonder if maybe you don't have split boost/vacuum lines which are causing boost spikes ..

I'd be removing the BOV and fitting a stock one if you can - these are known to cause all sorts of issues (stalling coming to a stop at lights, 'popping'/over-fuelling between gear-changes, etc). If you're back on no boost controller, your maximum boost should be 5/7psi (with a change at 4500rpm, if it's still hooked up) or just 5psi if it's not. Doesn't sound like it's running that though. Safe boost for the factory turbo is up to about 10-11psi, though you may run into R&R (rich&retard) even at those levels - causing all sorts of popping, hesitation, and carrying on. Wish I had a better idea/suggestion about the oil/blue smoke you had occur - hopefully someone else will have an idea. Lots of blow-by is more an indication that your piston rings are on the way out. Have you considered getting a leak down compression test? That should give you a good idea of the state of the motor. If you know or can find someone trustworthy you could also try taking the front piping off the turbo and checking for play in the turbo as that is a good indication of whether it's on the way out. If it's been boosted hard a lot, it certainly could do it (and would result in oil seals leaking, etc).

I find it difficult to believe that because they're running at this higher temperature - and designed to - that they're suddenly causing much much higher rates or wear and going through things like water pumps quicker. Pulled my water pump out for 100,000km service recently (I have no way of knowing if it was previously replaced, sure) and it looked almost like brand new.

Wonder if it's affected your fuel economy .. I only say because I recently had my thermostat replaced - now running rock-solid at 88-92C and my fuel economy seems to have improved. Previously it was sitting lower generally but would also spike higher on 35-40C days stuck in traffic.

What boost level are you actually running at peak? Do you know if it's still the factory turbo? Do you know what modifications have been done? (Can obviously see an FMIC) Pictures of the engine bay might help too ..

What height is it now? I'm a bit worried about mine now too - since I put the 18's on it seems to be sitting around 335 - used to be 345-350-ish .. guess I can always put the 17's back on to get through..

Yeah, last time i checked their site it wasn't listed either. Found a link to it on an eBay seller. There's so little information about it, it's fairly new. I did see it at Autobarn when I was there last, however: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/MOTUL-8100-X-MAX-10W40-5L-ENGINE-OIL-TURBO-DIESEL-LPG-/200572842777?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2eb312b319

Don't really know what to say? From what I recall of the last change, I don't get that much residual oil from the oil filter hole besis what's in the filter, and the angle of the filter means it doesn't tend to spill too easily. Any residual oil from the filter hole is caught by the big oil drain catcher I use that also catches from the sump drain plug .. I tend to keep my engine bay fairly immaculate, I can't stand mess and untidiness. .. eh, each to their own. Whatever suits you, man

Pretty sure the new one is Motul 8100 X-Max 10W40?

Do you have a low-temp thermostat as well? My experience with a stock R34 and brand new thermostat is that it sits pretty solid between 88C & 90C in most situations. The R34 thermostat doesn't open until 85C and fully open by 95C from what I recall.

Do these fit in the factory tweeter and front speaker positions?

After trying so many times, and being told I'm wrong so many times - you start to get a little testy with people; I make no apologies for it.

... ? er - no - they're really not. You didn't try the tyre calculator did you. Gosh! Can you believe that - there's a difference in the side-wall despite them both being 40 profile! And wow, they're a totally different diameter by 8mm .. maybe I'm just imagining the math being correct - or maybe you're really confused and don't understand what the numbers on tyres mean.. Let's go a step further. Wow, so the profile is actually a percentage of the tread _width_ ... wow, so that would explain why different width tyres with the same profile have a different sidewall size! ... You getting it yet?

You seem to have a misunderstanding of how the width & profile of the tyre affects the way the tyre sits and its effective width & height and how that relates to the real-world diameter. I'll give you a hand with a link to a tyre size calculator so that you might understand how it works: http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html Keep in mind that you need to keep within 15mm (larger or smaller) of the factory specification tyre/rim combination to keep legal. Any tyre shop worth their salt should be able to advise whether a particular width/profile combination will be legal for your car (in terms of diameter-change)

keep 'em

20K is a lot higher than I've seen any sell on the forums lately .. .. closer to $12-15K maybe - and yet people are still trying to flog off R33 GTS-T for $15K .. As someone who bought their R34 GT-T 4 years ago, it's bloody depressing. Wouldn't say that the resale value has held particularly well - not that I particularly care - don't plan on selling it anytime soon .. Market for 6+ cyl/turbo cars dropped out the arse when the GFC hit, and it didn't really ever recover ..

.. I've never understood the whining about reaching the oil filter - like on GTRs sure - with the plenum in the way it would be a right pain - but on GTST/GTT? Are GTST different or something? On the R34 GTT it's like totally easy? .. Never had any dramas? Couldn't imagine wasting time/money on a relocator ..

Been using Motul 8100 X-cess the 4 years I've owned my skyline - based on the information in this thread. I'll be moving to 8100 X-Max (10w40) on my next oil change though .. I don't imagine it'll be much different though ..

Think you'll find 255/40 wouldn't be legal anyway - too big a rolling diameter change. Pretty sure even a 245/40 would be pushing it? 245/35 should be okay though .. From what I recall, you can't fit a tyre with a 15mm larger or smaller diameter...

Guess nobody wanted to listen to my suggestion; Here I've done it for you:

Hahaha .. Nice April fools ...

Yeah, V35 are totally different than R34 .. no wonder!

Pretty sure the R34 workshop manual has that exact diagram in English - gives you the voltages you should receive with a pressure gauge. The 1.2bar sensor is the regular map sensor used on R34 GT-T/GT-R - the 2.0bar comes as part of the kit for the updated nismo MFD boards (though obviously you can source it separately).

It's worth noting that R34 have a much higher thermostat than the R33 (off the topic of my head I beleive it starts opening around 80-82C and fully open by 95C?). I believe these hotter running temperatures were done as part of the LEV modifications (ie: lower emissions) .. My R34 sees similar temperature ranges as above on a stock radiator (using tectalloy 100 coolant), fresh thermostat, recently changed fluid, etc. Planning to put a bigger radiator in within the next few weeks. I will note I saw much higher temperatures (105+ on hot days stopped in traffic) when I had a nismo radiator cap fitted - not sure why that is.