jrm

Probably going to get ripped for saying this, but Neuton NT5000 come in 225/45R17 and are a surprisingly good buy for their performance and longevity - perfect for a daily driver..

They changed the tinting rules back in January 2010 - it used to be like 70% front/rear, but they since changed it - it's now 35% front, rear, etc: http://www.transport.sa.gov.au/pdfs/personal_transport/light_vehicles_pdfs/MR430_Window_Tinting.pdf There are also special provisions for cars with factory privacy glass - in the case of factory privacy glass (like many of our skylines) its legal as long as it has an 'AS2' or 'AS3' marking ('AS1' is clear).

you could probably get away with an old regular computer power supply (assuming the 12V line has sufficient amperage..) - certainly what I use for bench testing my carpc .. (you just need to short a coupla pins together in the ATX plug to kick it on - google for which ones)

For my R34 GTT with a 3" turboback exhaust - I didn't notice anything after fitting a Blitz return-flow - lag, power increase, boost increase, etc. All seemed about the same? To be honest, the only real thing I did notice is that in summer I had less issuse with the car feeling sluggish on the really hot days?

Run 'dxdiag'?

I'm damn interested - but as I just spent (what I consider) a small fortune on new rims, I'm not sure I have the funds available right now to buy it. Annoying as I'd been pricing up parts for an oil cooler kit recently (earls core, greddy sandwich plate w/thermostat, braided lines, etc) - worked out around $600 - so this would be significantly cheaper... *sighs*

If your HICAS steering sensor is mis-aligned, this can cause 'crabbing' at speeds 80kph - worse, at approximately 110kph HICAS will turn off which will stop that crabbing and the rear end would kick out (experienced this myself). I would suggest you get a suspension specialist to check your rear suspension first - see if there's any movement in bushes, etc - and particularly in the HICAS rear steering rack - this can and does happen, as it's a wearing part. If the HICAS steering rack is worn & has movement, it will basically like your rear wheels are loose and that can make the car particularly unsettled even at 60kph going over bumps (I've experienced this too). Anyway, give that a shot first and see if you can rule things out - but there's plenty of things you can do once you've ruled that out.

HICAS stands for High Capacity Actively Controlled Suspension - it's Nissan's rear-wheel steering system. Unlike some 4WS systems like that from Honda, it's not used in low-speed maneuveurs, but only an assistance for high-speed cornering - it only really activates above 60-80kph. On R32 skylines, the system is hydaulic (hooked into the power-steering system - so if this has issues, then HICAS may too). On later models (R33/R34), HICAS it's electronic using actuators, making it somewhat more reliable. HICAS takes a number of inputs from the car, including speed, and steering input to device whether to, and how much to turn the rear wheels. It only turns the rear wheels a maximum of about 1-2 degrees, but at high-speeds this assists with corners. You can see how it operates to assist with cornering at different speeds in this image: The most common failures of the HICAS system that I've seen are: * HICAS ECU failures (the capacitors have failed/leaked) * Aftermarket steering wheel with incorrect boss (need one that is designed for HICAS) * Power steering fluid low (on R32 models) * Incrrect steering wheel alignment (ie: the steering angle sensor thinks the wheel is turned when it is straight ahead) Most people replace the HICAS system with a HICAS lock-bar to get rid of this system that can fail, and because in extreme handling situations it can and will make the car less predictable (as you and the car can 'fight' - if you oversteer and correct the steering with opposite lock, the rear-wheel steering will react to that which can make things worse, so you correct again, and HICAS reacts to that, etc) Here is a link to the HICAS diagnostic: HICAS Diagnostic Thread There is a wealth of information on these forums about HICAS - make sure you use search - Note that often using google rather than the inbuilt SAU search may yield better results.

OP: if your boss kit isn't one designed for HICAS, then this will be causing your issue. if you cannot get into hicas diagnostic mode (use search to find out how) then this is a good indicator your boss kit isnt right for hicas or your steering sensor is busted. it wont be power steering fluid unless you have an r32 (those used a hydraulic hicas system, r33/r34 use actuactors) Is it possible that your steering angle sensor is out of alignment? You should be able to use a multimeter on the HICAS ECU (check the workshop manual for the correct pins). It should be able to give you an indication what voltages are 'center' - the HICAS system will get upset if the car detects it's at an angle for an extended period - you may also find at speeds >80kph that your car will 'crab' slightly or the steering wheel may turn slightly to compensate for it.

I & many other SAU:SA people have used Auto Perfection (Main North Road, Enfield) They did a good job on my car.

The R34 tank is 65L, the fuel light typically comes on at 50-55L. From there, you should be able to work out the average cost of filling it. Changing to an RB30 isn't going to change the size of the fuel tank (though it will probably change your economy)

On a positive note, at least we now have this thread here for anyone in the future who wonders whether it would work and wants to try it. I hope you get your suspension sorted out

.. why oh why did they get rid of the rep system - perfect opportunity for people to put it to use ..

If you're only going to put in a cheap alarm - why bother? They thieves will probably be able to bypass it anyway. You're trying to protect your investment in a vehicle here - make something you get ADR/insurance approved - black wiring, 3 point immobilisation, etc. And get it installed by a professional. There are reasonably priced options out there. As for sensitivity - it really comes down to how it's setup. A quality installer won't make it go off from a loud exhaust going past, etc.

Ahhh back now. I had the seller drop them off at a Melbourne friend's house; I'd already transferred the money to their account, so they could pay for them - leaving me to either ship them over or drive across and pick them up. I figured it's been a while since I gave my lil' N14 SSS a decent drive, and the rims probably wouldn't fit in the R34 without removing all the stereo, etc - and hell the N14 is pretty ecnomical on fuel (I averaged 7.3L/100km there and back). I think I got a pretty decent deal. There's still rubber on them - albeit, the fronts are probably not legal from inside camber wear (the rest of the tyre probably has 25%) & the rears still have maybe 30% left. Just put the rim next to the car and took a picture. Ahhh... damn the light bronze color suits KR4 silver rim leaning against r34 For me, I've been hanging out looking for the right set of these rims for at least 12-18 months. My preferences in order have always been LMGT4, TE7, R34 GTR (and R34 GTR is awesome, but just seems too common these days - sorry Tobias ..). What I preceived as the right set of rims for me came up when I had the funds, and they're now mine .. It's really making me think that I might try and sorta 'nismo s-tune' my R34. I have plenty of other nismo s-tune parts, and now the nismo rims. The bodykit doesn't really interest me - but the other stuff, sure... mmmm .. Editted: Added link to picture for Dohmar

Spotted me in melbourne picking up 18" nismo lm gt4 rims ... (.. Now just to drive back ... Ugh...)

All I can say is 'good luck'. Does your friend realise there's no mount for a regular DIN-sized CD player? It would be quite straight forward to do a hack job - I've seen people use foam to fill in the gaps and other nonsense - but it's a nice car - why would you do ruin it like that? Here's a link to another thread where this has been discussed (foam used to fill gaps): http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/321782-r34-head-unit-gaps/ Another thread on the topic: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/295128-r34-head-unit-head-unit-size/ Another on sourcing the parts: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/357617-r34-gt-v-head-unit-surrounding/ Anyway - this topic has been discussed to death - it's obviously a fairly common problem for people who want to retrofit a regular headunit into a vehicle that came with the navigation/pop-up screen option. The parts themselves pop up quite regularly in the 'sale' section, or you can pick them up from a wrecker. It's not particularly cheap, but will let you fit single & double-din headunit in with minimal fuss - I'd highly recommend taking this path than what your friend is (I suspect) contemplating.

How would that help, lesseragitant? He still needs to buy all the parts to convert it - a duoble-din fascia, mounting bracket , climate control unit, etc. It's not as simple as just buying a new headunit. If he wants to make use of the pop-up screen, etc - then more money again. This is what Chris was getting at.

Nismo 3-gauge cluster is sold Feel free to PM me with offers.

Does this look like a VOIP forum to you? spam fail. much.

That's a picture from a GTR (you can tell as the climate control unit is slightly different) - but its the same as what most other models get that don't have the navigation/pop-up screen option. By 'surround' - I'm guessing you mean the trapezoidal piece of plastic with the rectangular hole with the headunit at the top and the din pocket at the bottom (it also has brackets at the back for holding the climate control, and din pieces in-place). These parts often come up on crashed cars in the 'for sale' section. If you need to swap the parts over you shouldn't have long to wait for parts. Alternatively, try your local japanese/import wrecker.

I'd pretty much agree with all of the above. I run the QFM & RDA combination as many do, however I'd also recommend braided brake lines - you'll be amazed at the difference in pedal feel. On an R34 I noticed very little adding a brake cylinder stopper (as above), but that may be different on earlier models.

Without a dyno sheet to back this up (and even then, those can be faked with dodgy ramp rates), I wouldn't believe a word. You haven't listed aftermarket tuning for starters, which means you're going to be pushing maybe 190rwkw at most. Even with tuning (nistune, etc), 210rwkw (as the last post indicates) is about the limit of the factory turbo and would be about right for 12psi. (You'll see this backed up in the RB25 dyno results thread). This agrees with the lack of an aftermarket ECU - they will chew fuel badly on 12psi without tuning, and really puts into question the claimed 230rwkw. The nismo 550 won't fit your RB25-NEO motor that the R34 have. You'd need to go the nismo 480cc's. If you went this option, be aware that this will limit future power options up to about 300rwkw - not really an issue for most. If you're fuel pump is on the way out (and given the car is over 10 years old, it wouldn't be a surprise), then replacing the fuel pump is a good bet. You'll also need the increased flow if you start fitting larger injectors, turbos, etc. I went a nismo fuel pump myself, but there are plenty of options. I would suggest going something that is direct drop in and doesn't require modifications, special wiring, etc. Coil packs - only if the current ones are damaged or misfiring. Whilst they're over 10 years old, if they've been regularly sprayed with silicon spray (as per the service manual), etc - it's likely they're fine. If you're starting to have misfiring, then there are plenty of options, including Splitfire, Yellow Jacket, etc. Personally I went Yellow Jacket as insurance as I increase power though my original OEM coil packs are still perfect (on the shelf in the garage..) Bigger turbo really comes down to how legal you want to be, your power goals, etc. (Legality and how likely you're going to get caught for upgrading the turbo largely comes down to what state you're in - SA and Vic are probably the worst). You could go to anything from a simple highflow to 3076, etc - it ultimately depends on your power goals. I really wouldn't bother with any sort of aftermarket plenum unless you have serious power-goals in mind. The factory plenum is fine. Really, to save money, and ensure you do things once, and do them right I would suggest you get a plan on what you want to achieve, your power levels, and work out what parts, etc you need to achieve that. There is a lot of information available on these forums, and the dyno thread is there with lists of modifications showing what other people have tried. Don't forget to use the search function.

My main worry with using coupe coilovers - and worse - GTR coilovers is that they're designed for a much different weight distribution than the sedan, and whilst they may fit - will ultimately result in a poorer ride than something specifically setup for the sedan. From what I understand with the GTR coilovers on even coupes - they're designed for a greater weight over the front wheels that the GTR engine has, so are setup to compensate for that. I think this would be even worse on the longer sedan shape. This is going on what I've read, and what others on this forum have said - so take it with a grain of salt

I think the R34 sedan without a wing looks kinda weird & too stretched, however with a wing, I think it works okay. Here's mine: