jrm
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Everything posted by jrm
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There's been a few bites, but it's all still available -
Have some R34 CF-look / hydrodipped interior trim & exterior door handles for sale - located in SA:-
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Hey guys, I purchased some carbon-look hydrodipped parts from Japan, but I'm going to have to part with some of them as I'm taking a different direction. Automatic gear surround, ashtray & stereo surround - $150: Center air-conditioning vent - $50: Exterior 4-door / sedan door handles to fit a - I think these would be perfect on a white or black car - $250: (Sorry, I'm not interested in splitting them for coupe owners) Prices are firm. Not trying to make a profit, just not lose a butt-load All parts are located in Adelaide, South Australia. Happy to ship Australia-wide, at cost (I'll need to get a quote from AusPost).
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Still for sale. $50 each.
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I've seen several options on the market for R34 that replace the rear license plate light, so that it works/looks relatively OEM. I've been trying to source one for a while, but the only ones I've tracked down don't have any side marker lines on the image - which is something that's overlayed in the camera. In the past, I'm fairly sure that Carbon Car Systems and Chris Rogers have been able to supply similar, along with MFD integration if required (not relevant to GTT)
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Interested. I'd also be interested if you have any options with higher output (150+)
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So I spent this evening mucking with it - and I eventually got it to let me pull the belt out. For anyone reading this or having the problem in the future - it basically requires you to put the belt into a completely 100% vertical position, the right way up, with no side to side angle - and then it eventually - with many false-starts and stop-starting - let me pull the belt out enough that I could remount it back into the spot in the car - and from then on it was working as usual. Thanks for all your help GTSBoy - it's appreciated. Hopefully this will help someone in future running into this.
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All I did was unbolt it and put it to the side. If I let it - it will wind more belt in - more belt will not come out, suggesting that there's something preventing it - perhaps a safety mechanism? Oddly enough, the ones I see on eBay are all wound up like that, so I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong. The only thing I can think is it needs to be plugged back in, and the car turned on so it can reset the pre-tensioner stuff inside it. Either way, there isn't really anything to repeat or reverse, and with it wound up as far as it is, I can't even bolt it back in (or plug it back in, without removing the entire belt) - because there's no room left. Anyway, if anyone has any ideas...
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Hey guys, After extensive sound-deadening work in the car floor, I've re-installed the carpet and now re-installing the center console, seats and seatbelts into car - and found that the seatbelt retractor on the passenger side seems to have gotten stuck and won't let me pull the belt out any further. I didn't have this issue on the drivers side, but I didn't have to remove as much stuff around the retractor there. The car is an R34 GTT Sedan. Has anyone run into this before? I'm wondering if maybe I've let it retract too much, and I've hit a safety mechanism? Is there a trick to loosen up a cam or something inside to get it to work again? I notice there's a 4-pin plug on the retractor - maybe something needs to happen there to activate it? Any clues or help would be appreciated.
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There's some restrictions around the size - but the main one is, if the car came from the factory with an air-bag - any replacement wheel also has to have an airbag. https://www.sa.gov.au/topics/driving-and-transport/vehicles/vehicle-standards-and-modifications/steering-modifications
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sa Adelaide - group buy for Evo Brembo brake conversion kit
jrm replied to R377's topic in Group Buys
Do you have a complete breakdown of costs, like the other group-buy? What about for calipers? -
[SA] Child restraint bolt spacers Hey guys, I removed the parcel shelf on my R34 a while back to work on the speakers, and in the process I seem to have mis-placed a couple of the child restraint spacers that go between the parcel shelf, and the bolts, etc. Anyone have a couple of these, or know where I could pick them up cheap? Thanks.
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WTB child restraint spacers - seem to have mis-placed a couple when removing my parcel shelf. D'oh.
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At my ride height (a little - maybe 5mm - below minimum legal) there's a small amount of scrubbing on the front, at full lock, when going up steep driveways, etc. It's pretty minor, and it hasn't really bothered me. When I had to get the car re-sprayed I did have them roll up the rear guard as a precaution (though it was entirely un-necessary). The front guards are untouched. As I understand it in - at least in SA - you can go up to 26mm more wheel track legally. With this wheel offset, there should be around 20mm wider track on the front and 4mm on the rear. It's very much on the edge of pushing outside the guards, but I've had anal police officers look over it, and give it the go-ahead with no defects - but your mileage may vary. I'm not running any crazy-excessive camber (I think a little over 1 degree front/rear) - with the standard approach of Whiteline adjustable camber kits front and rear (there's also Whiteline castor kit, subframe bushes, adjustable sway bars, etc). Anyway, I hope that helps with decision-making.
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I haven't had any scratches on my nismo wheel nuts yet (that I've noticed), but they probably havent been removed that many times. I may have to take up Terry's recommendation too. I also wanted black wheel nuts to contrast with my bronze LMGT4s, so I understand where you're coming from.
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As per one of my early posts in this thread, I'm running 18x8.5" +30 on the front & 18x9.5" +38 on the rear, with LMGT4 -- same specs as what you're looking at. I run 255/35R18 on the rears, and it's a good fit. I looked into 265, but to my mind it's getting too far away from the factory rolling diameter, and would upset the speedo too much (though I believe it's still within legal limits, but it's been a few years since I checked the specs). Good luck with your wheel choices
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Weird. Those look identical to my non-nismo side-skirts. I also can't find anything about a nismo 'side step set' for an R34 sedan, as part of the Nismo S-tune aero body kit - just a front bar and rear bar.
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2x Nismo LH Engine Motor Mount 11220-RS540 (fits 180SX S13 S14 S15) I have two nismo engine mounts for sale - model 11220-RS540. They are both located in Adelaide, SA - but I'm happy to post at buyers expense. They have stickers on them incorrectly marking for an R34 GTT, but as per the nismo model number they're the front left engine mount on a Nissan 180SX PS13, RPS13, S14, S15. 30 to 40 Percent Stiffer Reduces Engine Vibration They're brand new in the box - never used. They regularly list brand new on eBay, etc for $150+. Please note, this is for the left-hand side only. Picture for reference (I can post pictures of the actual items/boxes if you'd like).
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Cusco BCS R34 GTT (maybe R33 GTS-T?) I have for sale a Cusco BCS that I pulled from my R34 GTT, after I fitted a Nismo strut brace with integrated BCS. The guy I bought it from several years ago said he used to run it on his R33 GTS-T - so as far as I'm aware, it should fit R33 GTS-T as well. The item is located in Adelaide, but I'm happy to post at buyers expense. I'm looking for $50, which I think is pretty reasonable.
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Any interest in a Cusco BCS for an R33 GTS-T / R34 GTT? I've had this sitting around for a while, I'd rather see it being used. $50, and I think that's a steal.
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The factory boost sensors often just fail due to a cold solder joint. There are some posts on SAU about it, and it's a relatively simple fix. I've had this happen to mine - and was fixed by reflowing the solder on the main connections. It may be worth checking this on your old boost sensor, as it may be still usable.
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Hi guys, I'm looking for anyone who might have interior carpet to fit a S1 R34 GTT sedan. I'm not sure if there's much difference between S1/S2, or GT vs. GTT, but if anyone is wrecking an R34 sedan you may have what I want. I'd really prefer something without any holes, and without damage/etc. I'm in SA, happy to pick-up, or pay shipping (if it's reaosnable) if you're interstate. Thanks for reading.
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1495
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Pretty sure you'll find those are non-genuine. It also looks identical to http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nismo-Key-Blank-Nissan-Skyline-GTR-Silvia-R32-R33-S13-S14-R31-/301863018274?hash=item4648701f22:g:CPsAAOSwnLdWsBrS ... which is also at a much lower price.
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I thought the general consensus with these cars was to keep N/A's that way, as they're then still P-plate legal, and those are in-demand. Also - the cost, engineering, legalities, and extra police attention of a converted car (and they're probably worth less than a factory turbo, or plain N/A) making it generally better to just buy the turbo car instead.
