jrm

I have a number of R34 parts for sale: R34 3-gauge cluster - perfect condition $80 R34 3-gauge surround - pretty good condition, minor wear to the R34 interior paint $100 R34 Orange Front Indicators - perfect condition $20 R34 Manual Gear Surround & Ashtray - as above with 3-gauge surround, some marks/wear to R34 interior paint $75 Nismo 3-gauge cluster - perfect condition, used for a short time before fitting GTR MFD - in original box$250 I've just checked nengun, and the nismo 3-gauge clusters are now discontinued - so here's a good opportunity to pick one up. I've searched around the forums, and these prices seem pretty spot on what others are selling them for. Happy to post - send me a message for me to contact postoffice and get a quote on postage. Pictures of items:

I have a number of R34 parts for sale: R34 3-gauge cluster - perfect condition $80 R34 3-gauge surround - pretty good condition, minor wear to the R34 interior paint $100 R34 Orange Front Indicators - perfect condition $20 R34 Manual Gear Surround & Ashtray - as above with 3-gauge surround, some marks/wear to R34 interior paint $75 Nismo 3-gauge cluster - perfect condition, used for a short time before fitting GTR MFD - in original box$250 I've just checked nengun, and the nismo 3-gauge clusters are now discontinued - so here's a good opportunity to pick one up. I've searched around the forums, and these prices seem pretty spot on what others are selling them for. Happy to post - send me a message for me to contact postoffice and get a quote on postage. Pictures of items:

Glad to hear you got it sorted; Glad we could all help.

Given an R34 GTR front bar doesn't fit a GTT & would require GTR guards so that things lines up (as the bar is wider) - I do not believe that a GTR lip would sit right on a GTT bar. That said, the Top Secret bar may be different enough (I do not know), but I wouldn't risk it.

They do faster than that completely unmodified - get your car sorted before slapping more mods on it.

.. how about use an aftermarket plumb-back BoV not an atmo .. or hell - just a factory one - they're fine in almost all situations and not a defect waiting to happen..

With regards the color - check the paint code under the bonnet - should list one of something like KV2, KR4, etc. If you're trying to buy the right color one, you want to make sure the color codes match. To remove the spoiler, pop the boot, undo all of the clips on the underside holding the boot-lining in-place. You just need to twist to undo, then pull them off. Once the boot-lining is off, you'll be able to see up to the nuts holding the spoiler on. There should be two bolts on each side - I think they're 10 or 12mm. You'll probably need a fairly small smaller and extension to get in there. Once these are off, it depends how the last owner fitted the spoiler; likely you'll need to use something like fishing line to cut the double-sided tape or whatever material they've used to hold the spoiler on and protect the paintwork. With regards to the holes, the rear bolt hole is the same but the front bolt is in a slightly different position between the coupe and sedan. However, since you a coupe it's possible that it had a coupe spoiler on at all (than no spoiler at all) and if you're lucky there may still be the original holes there. From there, it should be a simple matter of putting the new spoiler with something like automotive double-sided tape to protect the paintwork, and then bolting it on from behind - the nuts from the spoilers are the same size. Then you can just put the boot-lining back on and voila - you're done. When I swapped my sedan spoiler for a coupe spoiler on my sedan I haven't had any leaks or dramas, so if you do it right you should be fine. If you're worried, talk to a panel beater maybe? Good luck with it.

Sorry to be so harsh. Bad stuff happens to the best of us - especially in the situation you were in when you least expect it. Hope you get it back, man - nobody deserves their car stolen. Thieves are the scum of the earth. Best of luck.

For me it was movement in the rack itself. It could probably have been repaired, but it was easier/cheaper to replace the rack. For the OP, I suspect it's best he take the car to a quality tyre/wheel/suspension workshop. They should be able to sus things out pretty quickly and figure out if it's the HICAS rack, simple worn bushes or what.

Don't mean to be totally rude, but did you have an alarm fitted? immobiliser? club lock? kill switch? insurance? Reward seems incredibly high for a car of that value (also suggests a lack of insurance). Seems like money that could have been spent on any of the things above.. Anyway.

If your HICAS is non-functional or has excessive play in the rear steering rack - it can definitely 'shimmy' at high speed - been there, and experienced it myself. I ended up replacing my HICAS rack, though - for pure street use, when it's working right - I kinda like it (removing/locking it would also be illegal without engineering in SA..)

You bought a GTR bonnet and attempted to fit it to a GTT - It was never going to be a 'direct bolton'. It is very well known the modifications required to fit a GTR bonnet to a GTT, seems very unlikely carmate were unaware of that - perhaps they thought you had a GTR.

The other thing that's worth noting is that the end-bits on the sedan spoiler are not as large as on the coupe spoiler, so even if you did raise it, it wouldn't quite 'look right'. I've attached some comparison pictures of my R34 sedan where I replaced my sedan spoiler with a coupe spoiler, so you can see the differences: Click for larger images. Hopefully that will clarify the differences. As has already been mentioned - people like to be different, so it wouldn't surprise me if that is a sedan wing on a coupe. It's a fairly straight forward swap to go between them too, so it should be nice and easy to go back to putting a coupe wing back on. The only way I can think of - off-hand - to raise it would be to use the nismo wing stays, which were designed for the coupe wing. Not sure if they'd fit the sedan wing. This would be a pretty expensive option, and would also require painting:

Picture looks like a factory sedan spoiler - you could just replace it with a coupe spoiler? They usually go for $150-200, depending ... You'd then need to get it painted obviously - no idea on cost, you'd need to talk to a panel beater..

The water temperature gauge won't really move past half unless you get past about 110-115C - that's normal behavior. Really, that's only telling you coolant temperature not oil temperature anyway.

Given turbo timers are illegal, I'm not surprised none of the installers would set it up. Really - do you need a turbo-timer, is it that hard to not drive the car on-boost for the last 60 seconds of your journey?

I hear Radelaide has lots of churches ey brah

A quick google suggests factory size for an R33 GTS-T is 225/50R16 or 205/55R36 - and your new rim/tyre combo doesn't have the same rolling diameter as factory - it's 3.3% out, and that obviously affects your speedo - it would read 100kph when you're actually doing 103.3kph - ie: reading low. Still, doesn't sound quite right that it's this far out at 60, but I'm sure it's a contributing factor ...

HICAS works above about 60kph Lots of information on these forms about HICAS, and how to start diagnostics if youre having problems.

From my experience (having had cooling issues with my car in the past), the viscous fan on my R34 doesn't really kick in till coolant hits above 95C - and that's getting into 'too hot' territory. I'd be checking the standard stuff you do for your coolant system: * that your thermostat isn't broken (opening at correct temperature, the rubber seal hasnt perished * your radiator cap is working (my nismo radiator cap was causing a good part of my overheating issues - figure that, went back to standard and temps dropped 10C under particular conditions) * checking your radiator for blockages - these will be impeding the radiator efficiency * bleeding your coolant system to make sure there's no air-locks If you're unsure on any of that stuff - take it to a radiator specialist.

Test it from the battery - in my experience, the MFD reads slightly low (though, even then seems even lower than I'd expect) Edit: Just went and checked my MFD - reads 14.1V at idle (and 14.3V directly at the battery) - weird - seem to remember it being out by more (i thought 1V) when I first checked .. Anyway - hopefully that helps; definitely sounds like you have dramas with your alternator if that's the voltage whilst idling/driving...

Have seen that; it looked incredibly ghey. I also contemplated silver with black writing, but it's a little too subtle for my tastes (and yet red is way too bling/out-there). I'm doomed to failure on this, I think - I suspect I'll just end up not doing anything. Fail.

I've been humming and harring about painting my calipers for about three months now.... Silver R34 GT-T, with factory silver rims, factory black calipers right now (with silver embossed writing)... I've just about decided on gold with red nissan, but I'm totally undecided. Every option seems uber-ghey. Maybe I should just leave them alone

Yup, most sedans had this - from everything I've ascertained over the years it was a dealer (not factory) option - A CF-look vinyl. They, unfortunately, always fade away which is why I replaced mine with 3M DI-NOC CF-look vinyl.. It's not the same as the coupe nismo cf pillar garnishes though, these were released by Nismo. On the coupe, because the doors are pillarless (unlike the sedan), the pillar garnishes actually detach so they can be physically replaced: http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=17253

.... They only did those on the coupe..?