jrm

With regards your oil questions - all are answered here: The Goods on Oils. The thread is huge, sticky, and is an amazing source of information. Personally, I wouldn't use anything less than a Group IV oil in my car. I don't think flow is really a consideration for filters - correct me if I'm wrong - more their filtration capabilities.

I filled up this morning - 315km from 50L - I exclusively use 98RON fuel. That sort of fuel economy is normal for me - my driving is purely city driving (no more than 10-15minutes, never more than 60kph, lots of stop start, aircon on all the time, and I'm pretty heavy on the accelerator). Last big highway drive I got 500-600km from 50L. Mods include 3" turbo-back, K&N panel, FMIC & 10psi wastegate actuator - dyno run was 182rwkw (pre-10psi actuator) I'm currently at 105,000km and I changed my o2 sensor - with a genuine nissan one - at 80,000km (as per 80,000km service guidelines). My fuel economy didn't really change before/after o2 sensor change. As part fo my 100,000km service I fitted new plugs, new coil packs, new timing belt, new thermostat, new water pump, etc. I've also recently serviced (cleaned) my AFM - it's worth noting that none of this seems to have affected my fuel economy. Purely as a check, find out whether your o2 sensor was changed as part of the 80,000km service (it is one of the bigger items listed, along with your ancillary belts). All in all, you're getting similar economy to me - so sounds fairly normal. I'm planning on getting my nistune tuned soon and trying to get some economy back - I know it's running quite rich (which is also fairly normal for a modified car without ECU tuning)

Could potentially use an arduino or fusion brain to make things easier .. There are plenty of devices, etc out there to help you do this sort of stuff. Have you hopped onto the mp3car forums yet? As for screens, I personally currently use a Xenarc MDT-X7000 - it's one of those devices that looks neat, but I recommend everyone steer clear of... (It's a single din, automatic slide out 7" touch-screen). My next iteration of carpc, I suspect I'll be moving towards a double-din 7" optically bonded screen. After comparing my R34 MFD display (which is sunlight readable) to the carpc display - it's really apparent how much better it would be to have a sunlight readable screen. That said, it's done me well for a number of years now. A quick poke on mp3car forums finds arduino to control car hvac..blog/code/reference?. Though, personsally, I'm a bit confused why you'd bother over-complicating your air-con controls - keep things simple. Aircon is one of those things you want to be able to feel physical controls, and guarantee it just works.

To me, I hope.

It doesn't - it's just the usual set of questions that gets put into every 'stolen' thread. (And invariably, the answer is 'no, i didn't have one' or 'no, I didnt have an australian standards approved one, so when I didn't arm it, it didn't auto-arm itself..'. I can't think of many recent 'stolen' threads where people had australian standards alarms fitted (and in use) and were still stolen. Worse, it typically pushes up the insurance costs for the rest of us... Anyways, enough claptrap - good luck in getting the car back; Nobody deserves to have their car stolen. It's a low act.

... cos the last stolen thread didn't ask for ages; I'm getting in quick: Did it have an alarm/immobilizer/kill-switch/club-lock?

The fact that nobody has commented on that worries me. I know on SR's there are issues with particular spark plugs being slightly too long, and will hit things internally... I wouldn't be surprised if this is the case on RB's too. Have you considered swapping your old plugs back in and seeing if the noise goes away? If it does, you've pretty much isolated the noise to those spark plugs.

I used (and recommend) a product called glassylite, cost me about $30 and the yellowing hasn't returned yet (now been about 8 months since I treated my headlights). The last process of their system includes UV treatment which is supposed to stop the yellowing coming back. I'd previously tried all sorts of methods to bring mine up (various polishes, even brasso - works a treat) and they'd come up great for a few weeks or months, but it wouldn't last and the yellowing would return. Way I see it, based on what I've seen thus far - at the cost - even if I have to do this yearly, it's better than where I was before...

Pretty sure that's covered earlier in this thread - they are different.

I would imagine it has nothing to do with the O2 sensor at all. However, if your car is not getting up to operating temperatures (water temps should be about 60C for 'operating temperatures'), then the ECU will be in cold-start mode - which is much richer (to warm the car up faster), and this richness results in poor fuel economy. This could mean you have an issue with your cooling system (thermostat/radiator), or you could just have a dodgy coolant temperature sensor. Shouldn't be too difficult to diagnose, either way. If you have access to a USB CONSULT cable (about $50), you can probably tell if its the gauge or something more (it'll let you read the coolant temperature directly from the ECU).

I fitted an r32 actuator to my car - really straight forward swap, and much more consistent boost than any bleed valve can achieve. Highly recommend it. Just make sure you unplug the factory bleed if you do (or it will spike to 14+ psi..)

Original posts say R33 auto, think someone got confused. R33 will probably mean conversion R32 ECU or Z32 ECU (to retain VCT) + nistune .. straight forward enough for most workshops.

Heaps better.

Now if only the spelling in the signature were correct ..

Can't believe we went a whole stolen thread without anyone asking about whether the car was fitted with an alarm / immobiliser / kill-swich

With 2 posts, that has to be a troll, right? Dude, drop your boost at the very least. You honestly can't expect your untouched ECU to handle those mods - the extra airflow is sending your ECU into a tizz. Even a stock turbo on an R33 will go batshit at 9-10psi, you expect it to be okay with a bigger turbo and more airflow? Craziness. Hell, you've spent all that money building your engine, adding a big turbo, and you really expect it to run on the factory ECU? Seriously - use the search function, you look like an idiot. Edit: Ugh.. just found another thread you made a few weeks ago: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/350357-r33-issues-can-you-help/ This is nuts.. I especially love the 'all electrics are stock so I can get it engineered'... *groan*

^- +1 First attempt, my car went through Regency with xenons, and they were very familiar with lighting rules and didn't let it through (hell, they woudlnt even accept white led parkers...) I had to retrofit wiring and modify H7 globes to fit the xenon housings to get them to pass ...

If you're talking the factory gauge, then it basically stays in the middle from about 60C -> 115C - it won't raise past middle on the gauge until it passes well over 100C. Keep in mind that the gauge isn't linear at all - you really need something like CONSULT or a PowerPC to read the real temperature. So that means if your gauge is moving past that center part - past where it gets to just after it's warmed up - then it sounds like you have a major overheating issue - and it's probably a good thing the clutch fan is kicking in as it could be stopping the car from completely overheating. Have you had the radiator checked out at all?

Not quite true. You can fit a GTR bonnet to a GTT without the GTR bumper, however if you use the GTT bumper you will need to use a 'bonnet mole' or similar to fill the gap (Eastbear make them, among others; See http://www.hybridcustoms.com.au/Drift_Nissan_r34.html 'r34 GTT GTR Bonnet Clip'). Additionally, to fit the bonnet you would need different hinges and bonnet catch (though some people have managed to adapt the GTT items, it's not recommended).

Any footage from inside the GTR?

Yes, yes indeed.

what are you trying to say? ... that it looks the same color as my N14 SSS ... Did it need to be more deep than that? It's a nice color.

.. looks like the same color car as my N14 SSS pulsar ..

You can't just stop a BoV by not hooking it up. It's held closed by the pressure of the vacuum line - without that, all you have is the very weak spring, which will open up very easily. No wonder it's running terribly... Please put it back the way it was with a vent-back, hooked up with a vacuum line.

I hear powerchip is pretty good?