jrm

bleh auto.. my R34 manual sedan

wtf. That's weird. Which Nissan did you ask? Main North Nissan has been consistently happy to help out with parts, and other work on my cars (including fixing my drivers-side electric window)

I've had no problems with mine on 10psi - it's an R34 though - each car is going to be different, I imagine. It's a hell of a lot better kick in the pants than a pure 7psi (ie: locked high boost mode) and it holds the boost more consistently through the rev range. Sounds to me like you have some sort of ignition break down. Plugs are one fix, but if it does fix it - likely that you just need to replace your coils. Yellowjackets are dead cheap - cheap insurance. I changed mine with the recent 100,000km service, despite the original Nissan ones working perfect.

I tried leaving the two stage boost in-place with a 10psi actuator just to see how it would act (a long hope of 10psi bleeding into 12psi). Unfortunately it runs closer to 10psi bleeding into 14-15psi... not good. That could probably be adjusted down if you got into the right maps via a nistune so the solenoid wasn't so open, but yeah. I've left mine disconnected for a solid 10psi all the time. Runs beautifully.

Tried Nissan? They fixed up my drivers window quite happily many years ago ...

You're selling one injector ... for $AUD600?

I noted earlier for Charles where to get the kit If you go to the PPC Co website you'll find a local store, my local paint shop stocked mine; It's really quite inexpensive too ($50): http://ppcco.com.au/where1.htm You can also order through their website if you haven't got a local retailer. Geez, you still haven't tried GlassyLite?

Pretty much any intercooler is bigger than the stock side-mount - if you have a front-mount, that's a 'bigger intercooler' (and you can see the front-mount in the pics). A bigger fuel pump doesn't mean much either, lots of them have died from sheer age - so have usually been fitted with larger aftermarket items. Keep in mind that - in general - modifications do not increase the value of a car. I personally wouldn't have thought the car worth that much, especially in that condition - but hey, a car is only worth what someone will pay for it. Imports have plumetted in value in the last few years ..

Bit late now - I gave up trying to find anyone who wanted to split out the timing belt from the 2-3 people trying to sell kits. I just went straight to Kudos and bought one direct, arrived last week.

Series 2 normally don't have the front-bar that you've pictured - unless it's different for non-turbo - but I wouldn't have thought so? Series 2 front-bar normally looks like this: There are also some interior differences - but again, I don't know if this is on both GT compared to GTT. Bodykits between non-turbo and turbo should fit the same, though I had read anecdotally that there were some minor front re-inforcement bar differences for mounting the series 2 front-bar vs series 1. But given that's a series 1 bar - probably a non-issue here.

Woo, I've made another convert

Quite often bolts are put through them during compliance (for the child restraints). Have you checked that?

Given the cost you're looking at outlaying, and you still have to find somewhere to mount it, and given you have an R34 - have you considered just retrofitting an R34 GTR MFD? There are plenty of tutorials/guidelines on how to fit - it will display boost/ignition duty cycle/water temperature/oil temperature/throttle position (and intake/exhaust temp if you fit extra sensors). You'd probably be looking at $900-1000 for the unit + a few hours to wire it all up. Definitely an option in my opinion.

We really should make a 2011 thread

Where did you get $650 from? Here's one on eBay going for $220: https://cars2.ebay.com.au/WHITELINE-22MM-REAR-SWAYBAR-S14-S15-R33-GTR-GTS-R34-GTT_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ200493267205 Or if you don't trust eBay, hiOctaneDirect for $285: http://www.hioctanedirect.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=35_124&products_id=1051 Even if you have new links ($200ish), this seems more than a little excessive to me for something that's second-hand (whether it's unused & still in packaging or not doesn't change that it's second-hand).

I've done some quick googling, and it suggests it's a plug-in issue why your 'Report' button isn't working. The number of bad posts/topics I see on this board since 3.0 is crazy, and worse - nobody can report them without a working 'Report' button. Can you guys make this a priority? It's detracting from the board.

Aren't there mobile companies who come around and re-gas those for you? Have you considered that?

Guessing you're not open to splitting stuff up?

Fan's probably not disengaging ...

Given it doesn't sound like you're familiar with this stuff, I wouldn't be surprised if paying someone to remove/rewire this will cost you near to what the amplifier is worth. Is it really worth it to you?

Sorry for the unclear picture; It gets up to near 8 (certainly not over it) in the mid-range, but it's 7 and below past peak power (and 6psi by peak): I'll be curious to see what it's dynoing now with a 10psi actuator - it sure feels quicker. If it matters, the above dyno was taken from Willall (a mainline dyno) - reputably a dyno that under-reads compared to dyno dynamics. And yet in that thread - R31Nismoid says: So - as I said in my previous post: ... not seeing a conflict here? I sure as hell wasn't talking about running more than that. I'm well aware of the limits of these turbos. To be honest, I'm quite happy with 10psi, and I definitely feel more comfortable doing it with an actuator vs a bleed valve. I'm quite curious to see what it where it's at post nistune tuning, cos it's on factory maps right now (nistune fitted, but untouched). Plenty of people are doing it - how long it lasts - I can't comment. A quick search of the RB25 Dyno thread: Another one with a dyno sheet here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/55845-rb25-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/page__st__640__p__5406969#entry5406969 .. with 210.9rwkw at 10psi. I know I've seen plenty of others... I will clarify that I was perhaps hasty and/or mis-remembering when I wrote '215-220rwkw' - though, it's not a big difference - but I probably should have said more like '210-215rwkw' as the limits that I've seen on these forums. I'm really not trying to prove people wrong or make a big deal of this - but I've seen it time and time again in the dyno threads, that people are getting those sorts of numbers.

.... yeah... no. You guys not read the dyno threads or something? Turbo was pushing 183rkw at 7psi of boost... Turbo is good for what - 10-12psi? Plenty of people in the dyno thread pushing 215-220rwkw on an R34 turbo (10-11psi). OP was talking R33 - so not entirely the same, but still - you're not making much sense to me.

I was dyno'd at 183rwkw with just FMIC & full exhaust. Recently changed my R34 turbo actuator over to an R32 10psi actuator, it feels even quicker. I imagine when I get my nistune actually tuned, I should be pushing well over 200rwkw .. I certainly plan to find the limits of the factory turbo before I upgrade it...

Failing people for ADR / compliance items seems completely normal and sane to me.

Better and more stable boost fitting an R32 GTS-T actuator (10psi) .. mind you, you have to disable the solenoid then ..