jrm

There's a N15 Pulsar (non-SSS) who parks regularly where I do who has some GTR badges on the body & in the middle of his rims. The thing looks in very poor condition too, with remains of duct tape residue on it from an accident, and all sorts. I don't think it gets washed, either - what a sorry sight.

I can only really comment from experience on R34, but I'd say the same would hold true for R32/R33. For the R34 the front-bar is fine, but the side-skirts, rear bar are different.

There should be a washer or something behind the CAS to ensure the spacing is correct, yes. Normally your timing belt cover would be performing that function - but for whatever reason you don't have one. You should definitely have all the bolts in-place, or yes, there's going to be issues - ditto the spacing. Have you considered putting the cover back on, and bolting it back up that way?

Glad to hear Charles89. I've only got praise for this kit. I've bought two so far from a local paint shop. Done two steering wheels of mine, and a friends, along with gearboot, gearknob, handbrake etc on both my cars. Comes up trumps. Anyway, let us know how you go

I thought school holidays had ended Hint: This has been covered 11 billionty times. Use search.

Gay. Guess someone beat me - I PM'd you about em

Depending if RubyRS4 is heading down, I guess I could - think he wanted to borrow my CONSULT cable ... Ruby?

Yup, they do. I've been talking about the PPC Co products (http://www.ppcco.com.au/leatherique.htm & http://www.ppcco.com.au/kits6.htm) on the thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/348260-reskin-or-recondition-r32gtr-steering-wheel - you might glean something from that. The leatherique kit comes with dye, clear-coat, etc - so a straight forward DIY option if you're game. Good luck with it

Seems like an odd claim; Factory R34 turbo I'll happily hit the limit of the R32 10psi actuator in 1st gear?

You would need 4 ballasts for four bulbs. It's generally not recommended to have HID on your highbeam (I believe it's because they take time to warm up, so flashing them doesn't work very well, and you typically turn highbeam on/off more, which is bad for the life of the bulb/ballast). What's wrong with just a standard decent bulb in the highbeams? If they're HB3 connector highbeams as they are on mine, you could consider fitting HIR bulbs maybe? That would be a decent compromise in my opinion.

There's a sticker pretty similar to that 100,000km one which you get when you buy a Nissan timing belt - however the actual sticker has space for the number of km and the current date. Pretty sure that sticker is just a reminder to change the belt at 100,000km - not that it's been done.

Wow, pricy. I think I only paid $250 or so for my R34 GTT one from the local Nissan dealer when mine went ..

It's requesting a line of credit - so it will come up in a credit report. Mind you - so will applying for a personal loan, or a credit card. I would have thought applying for a small credit card (and not using it) would have been more beneficial for your credit rating, TBH.

... or D2R if they're xenon headlights (mine also have HB4 high-beam - dunno if that's normal just for xenon or both)

Cheap brake upgrade ideas: * Good quality pads (lots of people use QFMs here) * Good quality dot5.1 brake fluid (dot5.1 should handle higher temperatures, and if your current fluid is old it's likely absorbed lots of water over it's lifetime, and could be causing a spongy pedal) * ADR approved braided brake lines (Most brake places can make these up or send your brake lines to someone who can) * Brake cylinder stopper (plenty of JDM and cheaper options, helps stop the sponginess of the pedal from flex against the firewall) * Upgrade your brake rotors (DBA and RDA have reasonably priced slotted options) .. should definitely improve the feel of the brakes, have better braking power, be more resistant to fade, and handle higher brake fluid temperatures - all which should help with what you want - without spending a fortune on a bigger brake package ..

Most of those look like they should come out, I'd say. Some of the deeper marks may be left as marks, but at least with the dye they'll be turned dark which should mask them. If you really want to risk it and play without buying the kit - try hitting up the leather with some 400 grit wet & dry sandpaper and see whether taking the top coat of dye takes the damage out with it (you'll want to start at 400 and work your way up to like a 1200-1500). Ideally with the kit, you'd do this with their leather prepping agent, but I did try it out on mine before buying the kit to see how it would come up too - cos I wasn't real sure either. Anyway, don't sand it too deep, and you don't want to turn the leather to suede. Afterwards you're going to be left with a light colored wheel that's going to look pretty terrible, but it should let you know what the state of the leather is once the top layer of dye, etc is off. If you need to use the wheel prior to hitting the wheel at this point and don't want to feel too stupid, as a temporary thing, you could hit it up with like a leather boot polish or something, but I wouldn't advise it. I know with my wheel I just got pissed off with it one night and hit it up with sandpaper after reading hundreds of websites on leather repair and then bought the kit the next day to finish it up ... heh. Either way, good luck with it.

For SA (I know you're not in SA, but maybe VIC has similar documentation?): http://www.transport.sa.gov.au/pdfs/personal_transport/light_vehicles_pdfs/MR430_Window_Tinting.pdf http://www.transport.sa.gov.au/pdfs/personal_transport/light_vehicles_pdfs/430_Window_Tinting_for_your_Motor_Vehicle.pdf .. these specifically mention 'body tinting' - factory tinted privacy glass. Another more generic link: http://www.wfaanz.org.au/AutoAU.htm -- which specifically states

In SA, the tinting laws have provision for things like factory privacy glass - it's on plenty of cars, not just skylines - and its typically allowed to be much lower than the regular 35%.. (R34's is like 18% or something) When I had a regency defect inspection the inspector checked the glass, saw it was factory privacy glass and let it through - surely vic inspectors aren't that retarded? I know my car has a sticker on it somewhere about 'UV glass' or something... maybe that helps? Either way, what state are your front windows in - 35% or lighter? You're not going to get out of not displaying your P's properly - it's your responsibility to ensure they're visible, however if you got fined for the *tint* specifically, then you should be able to get out of that (assuming your fronts are legal).

Didn't get a reply last time - so, asking yet again.

The factory wing uses the middle holes, they have a sort-of clip that goes from the spoiler into the hole - probably to help locate it, or lock it down or something. Either way, yeah - you're going to want to put some sort of proper plug in there to prevent water entering your boot. I'm sure a body-shop (or someone on here) might be able to give you some clues. Also - the nismo wing stays - they're supposed to have plastic pieces that sit around the bottom of the stay and cover up any of the holes anyway? Are you missing these?

I had the exact thing with the drift filter I used - won't ever use one of those again.

Seems about the same with my R34 (GTT), with GTR MFD fitted. Normal days, it'll sit 70-80C, warmer day (like yesterday 35C+) it was hitting 90-95C (especially when idling/stopped temperatures would get higher - 96-98C - and quickly drop when moving again). I've only recently replaced the termostat & waterpump and the radiator was flushed semi-recently - so everything should be spot on. Mind you - factory gauge doesn't move (I'm told it wont until it breaks well past 100C). I'm guessing this isn't that unusual, but I'm pondering fitting a larger radiator to try and lower my temperatures for those warmer days like we get in Adelaide.

I'd probably go talk to one of our Sponsors - Auto Perfection (on Main North Rd, Enfield). They've helped me out in the past with both my stereo, and some dramas I had with my alarm. Is also where I'll be going when I get around to fitting tint on my front windows. Highly recommended.

Perhaps you've used the wrong grade of oil? What did you use?

Your stats say you have an R33 - would think you'll need more than $700 budgeted here, given you'll need to either get an R32 or Z32 ECU, have nistune chip fitted to that, and then the cost of tuning it ..