jrm

You're joking, right? Sure for leather polish - that's just a temporary surface treatment - but proper leather dye? I don't believe so. You think the leather from Nissan isn't dyed? The kit also uses sealant coats over the top of the dye to protect it - much as it's done at the factory. The method is exactly the same that professional auto-trimmers use. Seriously, go have a read at their website: http://www.ppcco.com.au/leatherique.htm Given the cost of the kit compared to retrimming, I figured it was worth a shot - and ended up doing both my cars after being so impressed with the results. In the end, I figured - worst case - I'm gonna retrim anyway if it doesn't work - and it did.

Its definitely worth noting that the R34 thermostat opems much later than earlier models (starts opening at 82C - fully open by 95C) - my understanding is this for emissions reasons - but feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.

wow. I can't believe how many people seem to think those emergency stop areas are lanes. moar?

It's a requirement that you post a price.

They're just stickers. It was a dealer-option for the R34 sedans - by this age they've almost all perished or become damaged. You basically have a few options: a) Remove the stickers (and try not to damage the paint underneath in the process) b) Remove the stickers and re-apply some other sort of garnish - most people use 3M DI-NOC CF-look finish c) Remove the stickers and try and source some of the after-market carbon-look coverings which double-side on (I've only seen these sold once or twice in the 4-5 years of R34 sedan ownership - pretty rare). Personally I went with option (b) on my R34 sedan. Be aware that the pillar-garnish on sedans and coupes is quite different. The nismo carbon garnish was only ever made/sold for the coupes. Refer to the following threads for further information: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/340918-r34-sedan-carbon-fibre-sticker/page__p__5512947__hl__pillar+garnish__fromsearch__1#entry5512947 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/298139-carbon-fibre-vinyl-for-b-pillars/page__p__4960826__hl__pillar+garnish__fromsearch__1#entry4960826

Guys, The 'report' function seems to be broken. I've tried to report a few spam posts - both the post itself, and going into the member profile and hitting report there - and in both cases it displays: [#10135] We could not determine what type of content you are attempting to report. Am I doing something wrong, or is there something special I have to do? Seems like what I'm doing should work? Edit: d'oh just noticed others have reported the same thing. Any update on it?

They do have a 'filler' type product in the kit, but I didn't really need it much. After the initial prep work, sanding at multiple grits of the wheels brought it back to an even layer on the R34, but the N14 wheel needed two small divots filled that you could barely notice, but I figured I'd give a go. I was surprised how well just the pure prep & sanding came up though - you'll probably be surprised how much it will even out. It all comes down to how much time you want to spend, really. I took a long weekend to get the R34 wheel done as it just had wear marks that had lifted the top coat of the dye - these easily sand away to reveal the leather underneath. The N14 wheel took about a week because I had to take it further back and fill those two divots, and overall it required a bit more care. Have a read of the instructions included with the kit: http://www.ppcco.com.au/fact_sheets/pi/pi_leatheriquesteeringwheelkit.pdf It might give you some ideas on how the process works. Here's an 'after' picture of my R34 wheel. You can see it's lost some of the 'grain' to the leather in the upper-area compared to the rest wheel due to it requiring more sanding/preparation. I don't think it's particularly noticeable, particularly in person - but it's worth mentioning. (Click for a larger image)

Have you considered tackling it yourself? I recently repaired, and re-dyed the leather on my R34 and N14 steering wheels (12 and 16 years old respectively) and they both came up looking near-factory. I used the leather steering wheel repair kit from PPC http://www.ppcco.com.au/kits6.htm. I also bought various grades of sandpaper for the early stages, some cloths and brushes to apply both the dye and clear sealant for the last stages. For the $50 this kit cost, and the results I got vs reskinning (typically $200-250), I was stunned with the results. It's truly amazing how well leather responds to this sort of treatment.

Speaking of chicks .. Victoria's Secret 2010 Fashion Show on Foxtel over the weekend .. Goddamn that Adriana Lima is smokin' ... then again, most of them are...

Aren't fibreglass bonnets illegal if they haven't passed ADR testing - and only one mob in Australia (Blits?) have actually done the testing?

You have a ground loop. There should be plenty of information on these forums and the web in general about how to solve it now you know the term. Listed in order, the simple & typical things you'll want to check are: * Power & RCA/speaker cabling to amplifer running down opposite sides of the car * Adequate grounding from the amplifier to the chassis * Adequate grounding from the headunit to the chassis * Adequate grounding from the battery to the ciassis There are also ground loop isolators you can add in, but they will compromise the sound quality & if your wiring is right you should never need them (In all my years of installing amplifiers, etc - I've never needed them).

Have you tried clearing cookies?

Guessing you don't wanna split any of the parts? gates timing belt & tensioner bearing, specifically? Also - do you have the airbag for the steering wheel?

Great work, Kristian.

Octane booster is your friend ..

So we go from stock engine to just stock block or what? Most of the people in here seem to be talking stock engines, as in, unopenned - not stock block. Compare apples and apples. You honestly seem to be more set on trolling rather than learning from the wealth of experience on these forums.

Aren't fibreglass bonnets illegal anyway (unless they've passed ADR testing, which AFAIK only one supplier on the market has done - in QLD?)

What color are the panels?

The silencer should have two settings (you can rotate a plate inside). On both settings, you will get a power restriction and you probably won't want to boost it too hard beyond standard boost levels (due to the exhaust restriction)... I'm pretty much in the same boat with my x-force exhaust. It's well over legal limits without the silencer, but with the silencer, there's too much of a restriction. I'm thinking I may just see an exhaust specialist and see what they recommend (diffferent muffler, additional muffler, etc) I'd definitely suggest this route is the right way to go rather than fitting a silencer, as a silencer just means exhaust restriction.

As well as the vacuum hose running to it splitting, the MAP sensor used for the boost gauge on R34's is a known item to fail - typically with a dry joint (or three). There is a thread on how to repair the dry joint (crack open the sensor, heat it up with a soldering iron). If the gauge is intermittent, rather than just always gone, I'd be putting my money on a dry joint rather than the vacuum hose. The thread you'll probably want to read is: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...-F-t259107.html However, there are a number with pictures, and information etc as it's a very common issue.

Would have been more fun if I hadn't gotten home and realised I was sunburnt to hell ... I hadn't been expecting to be outside for quite that long... On a positive note - a big thanks to Ruby for taking time out on his busy Sunday afternoon to look at my car ... and I'm off to drive to Melbourne for the week in about an hour .. woo.

YaY for timing belts!

My car used to go maybe a month between polishing previously before they'd start to yellow. I'm now up to nearly 6 months since I used glassylite and the UV protectant, and they're still perfect and no yellowing. I'm a total advocate for their product. Given the price and how quick it is - really, give it a try!

Whilst it might fit, everything I've read says it will be entirely the wrong spring rates, etc for the car. Apparently the GTR weight distribution is quite different to the GTT (4WD system, engine differences etc). This information has been posted around the forums a few times by people in the know...

God I hate Hot4's... ... Their need to plaster every page with half-naked girls detracts from the point of the magazine - the cars. So glad HPI & Zoom don't do that shit.