jrm

If you already removed the mods - what's the drama with taking it through regency again? What were you actually defected for?

ADR 25 requires that the normal function of the engine only occurs when the ignition lock is in the engine on position. .... remote start breaks that requirement.

That could work - works for my name (JENR sounds like jenna) and R34 .. I like ya thinkin' .. *plots to save money and buy it*

I really don't know if I can justify another $200/yr on my baby. I guess I could go one of the non-yearly fee ones ... Could get like JRMS-34 or JENS-34 but then people might think I'm 34yo .. hmm .. JEN-R34 would be win, but that would be yearly fee. Gheys.

Are these real leather or leatherette? Who made them up? How easy are they to fit?

182.7kw on my R34 on the Willall dyno with just an FMIC + 3" turbo-back exhaust (and the standard R34 factory dual-stage boost control)

Yeah, I should prolly head down...

Meh .. I prefer Scarlett Johansson ...

That car is nice, but it just needs more Megan Fox ..

Typically if the noise goes away when you put the clutch *in* then it's the input shaft bearing. You may also find you get a whine in the gearbox that only goes away in forth gear, as forth gear is the only time no load is put on the cluster shaft bearing. (This is another bearing that is known to wear). Both of those are relatively cheap parts to replace, but obviously the labor on them make it into a situation where you may as well start replacing synchros, etc if you're gonna crack the box open. I'd probably take the car into a gear box specialist. They'll probably take the car for a drive and advise you appropriately.

Disconnecting the solenoid will lower your power - not increase it. GROUNDING the solenoid will increase your power below 4500rpm (as it will essentially bleed out and remove the 4500rpm solenoid switchover). At those levels of modification, 0.8mm is also probably overkill - I wouldn't bother, and if you were having issues, I'd probably be thinking fresh coil-packs prior to a smaller plug gap. Unless you're running much higher boost, its almost certainly un-necessary and will also rob you of power. Realistically, 3" exhaust, FMIC, ground out the solenoid (or even better - EBC), nistune + retune. Look at things like coil-packs / plugs if you see flat-spots / mis-firing at that point. If you already have flat-spots, mis-fires, you should get that stuff sorted before trying to get more power out. Start from a solid base.

The DIY section about grounding the solenoid does not get rid of it - quite the opposite. It basically makes the solenoid always open - which will leak an unknown level of boost with factory ECU tuning and restrictor sizing, all depending on exhaust size, wastegate size, etc. For me, with a 10psi wastegate actuator, the boost solenoid was leaking nearly 5psi - in-effec running my still standard turbo at 15 psi - way more than I wanted. By disconnecting the boost solenoid I get a solid 10psi. With the factory wastegate, disconnecting the solenoid you should get around 5psi. Also note you can program the boost solenoid to some extent if you install a nistune. There are a number of threads on the nistune forums about it. Really, a lot of this comes down to the reasons why you're wanting to disconnect it. If you're installing aftermarket boost control, you'll probably want to bypass the solenoid completely. Can you shed some more light on what you're trying to achieve?

Easiest way - unplug the solenoid. It should be located to the right of the turbo & wastegate - a small metal cylinder with two sets of vacuum lines running into it and a plug. Off the top of my head, you should see it right behind a black fluid reservoir on the passenger-side strut tower.

I received that sticker with my genuine Nissan timing belt - so yeah - translations make sense to me ... Certainly, I guessed and filled it in as they've confirmed.

The other thing to note with HICAS - if it is crabbing - it turns off at approximately 110kph - which if it's misaligned can cause the rear end to kick out when it turns off...

If you look at the picture, it's definitely got an exhaust - who knows what else. A 0-100kph in 5.6s doesn't sound stock, either way.

Wow, nope - both my local Nissan dealers I've dealt with have been great with imports. Happy to help, happy to look up parts, bring them in - even work on the car. That's a bit of a disappointing experience. Good luck with another dealer - one of them is surely gonna help. Maybe ring around? Your other option that I know can get parts in from Japan is Powerplay Imports - I've used them for minor stuff that was cheaper than the local Nissan dealer ...

This thread reminds me of La Bomba ...

Nissan, they can get one in from Japan for you. That's what I did for my GTT about 2 years back - I also had 'em fit it. They're not particularly cheap.

I've gotten a quote from Powerplay Imports for these seperately, so I'm not sure if the above is the case. Mind, you the quote nearly made me fall off my chair ...

Go Blitz - you get what you pay for - tested, flows well, return-flow design, & Just Works[tm]

One is pillarless doors, the other isnt - very different mirrors.

Have you considered just buying a turbo manual - it'll probably just be cheaper and easier

Area under the curve is where it's at.

How'd you go?