jrm

uhhh .. what's a car .. I'm just a girl You could ask them - couldn't hurt to give it a shot. It's pretty easy to do if you have access to a 10mm spanner to unbolt it, and a soldering iron to re-flow the three joins though The hardest part is undoing the damn clips around the edge of the sensor, I always struggle with that bit.

.. or me.

I recently re-soldered the dry joints on normsta's boost sender that was doing the same thing. If you're comfortable with a soldering iron, it's about a 15 minute job to take it out, hit it with the soldering iron and put it back in. The other thing that normally breaks about the same time is the vacuum hose back to the plenum. It'll often crack when you try and pull the sender out to replace anyway. I'd suggest try changing the vacuum hosing and then if that doesn't fix it, look at hitting up those dry solder joints. It's the three main ones coming back to the plug. There's a thread on it somewhere if you hit up search.

So during a routine 100,000km service to change the timing belt (amongst other things), when using a harmonic balancer puller, the balancer hit the ground and took two small chips out of it - not too much to worry about I thought - but the more I think about it the more I worry about this putting the engine out of balance. The car seems to run fine, no real difference to the feel of it from before/after, so should I be worried? Is it worth sourcing another R34 harmonic balancer and getting it swapped over? I've done a search and I've seen a mix of responses. It seems fairly common to happen, and seems like if it's really beaten up worth replacing otherwise 'meh'. But I figure it's worth posting a newer thread to gauge peoples thoughts... So - given the time/effort involved - would you change it?

If it goes away when you put the clutch in, my money would be on the standard RB25 input shaft bearing noise. The other common noise is when you have a whining noise that goes away when you go into 4th gear, apparently this is the cluster shaft bearing. From what I've seen/heard, it's common as muck.

I pretty much exclusively use Noctua fans in my PCs - never had any issues sourcing them - it also means I can try and keep my systems relatively quiet (which is a drama given what a crazy setup I have). My main desktop uses one of their push-pull CPU heatsink+fan setups - they're specifically built for that. Keep in mind, Noctua have two fan line-ups, for pressure and for flow (ie: case vs CPU). You want to make sure you get the right fan for the task.

Spotted white R33 that looked like it had been rear ended just off Churchill Rd, Prospect .. hope it's nobody on here

Pretty sure it's the same panel between my N14sss and the R34 too .. (which yeah, I've been told is the same as many commodores). The guys at Autobahn Mile End got me mine many years ago, they knew the right one off the shelf. Can't speak more highly of them there.

3. no Judging by the completely perished condition of the seal on the thermostat I pulled out of my car at the 100,000km service a few weeks ago - I'd have to completely disagree with that.

Just try not to make it too much like Need For Speed: Underground ... hehee

oooh CIA (Edit: you fixed it from CIA to CAI) Anyways - I'd probably stick with a high-flow panel - you should have a snorkel anyway which is a good enough CAI A pod is more wank-factor until you hit pretty decent rwkw and the panel becomes a restriction - you're forking on for the pod, heatsheild, mounting it properly to avoid issuse with Regency. The noise is also likely to attract more attention from the police, etc.

Be prepared to pay out the ass for them ... (The price alone will probably be enough to make you not bother.. not alone no spot to mount either of them on anything but a R34 GTR without modfiications)

Simple answer - an R34 GTR turbo is designed for the airflow of three cylinders totalling 1.3L of capacity - a GTT turbo is designed for six cylinders and 2.5L of capacity .. (Hint: R34 GTRs have two turbos, GTTs have one)

Main North Nissan are absolutely awesome. The guys there really know their stuff, and they've always been willing to help with both of my cars (R34 & N14 SSS). They seem to have absolutely no issues working on imports, using FAST to import parts from Japan, etc too. Additionally, as an SAU:SA member, we get discounts with them too

How about "straight forward" instead of "easy" ... Besdes, you seemed to enjoy the fumes

ditto .. even better/easier on the iPad tho .. woo!

Could always go Nismo - direct drop in ... just probably more money than you want to spend .. (disclaimer - I had one fitted to my R34 on the weekend - was stunned how easy it was to install - thanks RubyRS4 )

Many of the SAU:SA peeps will be at Villis Friday night at 7:30pm or so ... Thread is here, for more information .. As for the sticker - depends if it was an SAU or an SAU:SA one, I guess. SAU:SA ones are for SAU:SA members. There should be links to becoming a member in the main South Australian section. It has many benefits, it's definitely worth signing up

Could not agree with this more. Ensure you have a solid starting point before proceeding with modifications. Last thing you want to do is end up breaking something because the car was inadequately maintained. It's probably also worth changing all major fluids if you do not know when they were changed last (gearbox, diff, brake, oil, etc) To add to what dark.sky has already said, be aware that in South Australia, you're going to be targetted by police, and any modifications you do will likely end up with your car going through an inspection at Regency Park. You'll want to try and keep legalities in-mind with every modification you do. For instance, with regards to the exhaust, ensure that it's within legal dB limits. With regards to a pod filter, you can likely get away with a simple high-flow panel and not really run into any restriction until you get into the 250+rwkw area (as evidenced by many on these forums). A bigger intercooler is a good thing, but as above, any modifications to the re-inforcement bar is a defectable item, and may cause you dramas with insurance claims. I do not believe there is any off-the shelf (even return-flow) front-mount intercooler that will fit without modifications (even slight) to the re-inforcement bar (There is the ARC SMIC, but its incredibly expensive, and not front-mount). A boost controller or bleed valve will also be easily recognisable by police officers and regency inspectors. You may be better off looking at an R32 wastegate actuator - these are 10psi, bolt straight on, and are not easily detectable. Be aware with suspension modifications that you may run into issues with getting coilovers through a Regency inspection without having them engineered. Removal and replacement of the HICAS (another common mod) will also require engineering to pass through a Regency inspection. For basic upgrades, I'd probably suggest: * A legal 3" exhaust, turbo-back * Upgrading brake pads (QFM?) & braided brake lines * Some sort of legal suspension (bilsteins?) * Camber/Castor kits, front & rear (once you lower it, youre going to have camber issues) * Rear subframe bushes (pineapples) * Some sort of legally fitted front-mount intercooler * Increased boost (10psi R32 actuator?) * Nistune ECU (Not easy to detect through an inspection unless they physically open up your ECU casing) This should net you somewhere in the region of 210+rwkw, and a car that will handle and brake better than factory. You may also need to replace both your coil-packs and spark plugs to achieve this goal, depending on their current condition. The whole path of modification of cars in South Australia is quite a mine-field. It's definitely best to work out your goals, figure out what you need to do to get there, and try and work out the most legal way to get there to avoid dramas with police, inspections and insurance. You'll end up saving both time, money and your own sanity that way. [i just wrote way more than I was going to... woah.. ]

Do your hazards work? Pretty sure if the hazard switch isn't hooked up properly then you get no indicators..

Was giving the car a run-in after spending the morning with Ruby fitting a Nismo fuel pump and an R32 10psi actuator. It hammers onto boost a lot quicker now, but I think I'm now hitting R&R ... oops. Gonna disconnect the factory 2psi solenoid to see if that helps it. It's peaking out to 14psi (and settling back to 12.5psi) now, which I probably don't really want on the factory turbo! Always good to see another skyline owner you know out on the road

Yes, the screen, buttons and the bit behind the control knob on the climate control are supposed to light up. If it doesn't then your bulbs are probably blown or missing. You should be able to get replacement bulbs from an auto-elec or get some LED replacements from DAN666 on these forums. Follow the instructions on these forums in the Tutorials section on how to change a headunit - they're identical for pulling the climate control unit out as its all on the same cradle.

Page GI-3 of the R34 workshop manual disagrees, and lists the R200V differential for all turbo models? ... Mind you, it says it didn't come on any of the non-turbo models, which apparently some people have gotten as an option, so that doesn't make much sense to me either.

Pretty sure KR4 is the color - don't think there are any variations. It's called "Sonic" Silver. There is like KV2 ("athlete silver"), which is the other common silver of nissans. The following thread has a complete run-down: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ni...amp;pid=3445367 Sounds like your panel guy is a bit confused ..

Here's a link to a thread of a guy selling nismo 480cc injectors: http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=398294 Perhaps you can compare the pictures? Anyway, I'm pretty sure the only nismo direct drop in for the R34 GTT is the 480cc's ..