jrm

I was surprised about a year ago when I found that SA Transport webpage does now list guidelines on modifications, and what is and isn't illegal. For this particular change - adding a turbocharger: https://www.sa.gov.au/topics/transport-travel-and-motoring/motoring/vehicles-and-registration/vehicle-standards-and-modifications/aftermarket-components I'd imagine these sorts of engineering changes would include checking over whether the brakes are adequate, any changes to the fueling system are within specifications, that adequate exhaust & emissions systems are in-place, etc.

Wow, that's really nice - much better than the damn stickers degrading over time like I have on my old bronze LMGT4's (I've bought replacement stickers in the past, but they sure don't last forever). I like it. I look forward to seeing pics on the car.

Huh, the 'nismo' looks almost stamped into the rim, rather than a sticker as previous - can you confirm?

The really frightening thing is, we're heading towards the end of 2015, yet this is a 2014 Wasteland thread, and only 4 pages in. Kinda highlights how dead SAU:SA is.

I've got the nismo 'solid shifter' on my car - the one with only 10%. It doesn't feel much shorter in shift to me, but it does feel more 'solid' or more precise in the shift - I think this is due to the more solid bushing they use. The downside of this bushing I've found, is that it definitely transmits more gearbox noise into the cabin - something to be aware of. Overall, I'm not sure I could recommend it - I'm glad I picked mine up as a cheap second-hander.

Last night I removed the A-pillar covers, and factory tweeters to assess fitment. I'd been warned these were a fairly shallow location, and I might have issues mounting aftermarket tweeters here. I removed the grill and flush-mount cover, which reduced the size of the tweeter, but it was still a good 3-4mm thicker than the R34 factory-option tweeters. For test-fitment purposes, I attached the tweeter to the back of the A-pillar cover with some tape. The cover snapped into place, and seemed to have sufficient space for the tweeter, without any obvious rubbing. So it looks like this could be a win. Plan now is to adapt the factory tweeter mounts to hold the new tweeter in the correct location. It's probably not the optimal location sound-wise, but it definitely achieves the factory-look that is important to me. Then onto the main speakers in the doors, and finding the best location to mount the cross-overs.

I eyed off the Nismo swaybars, but ended up going Whiteline f+r, as they're adjustable. Are there any benefits to going Nismo swaybars over Whiteline? Are they bigger/thicker/stronger?

Hi, I'm currently in the process of doing some audio upgrades in my car - the next step looking at upgrading my front speakers. I've already pretty heavily sound-deadened the car - in the boot, rear seat area, parcel shelf, and front-doors. The setup currently consists of a sunlight readable double-din touch-screen in the front, plugged into a car-pc running Centrafuse in the boot. Sound from the car-pc runs via an optical cable into an Audison Bitone, and from there into a pair of amplifiers. An Audison Voce Quattro is used for the fronts/rears, and a Kenwood KAC-9105D for the subwoofers. Rear speakers are Alpine SPR-60 - which should be adequate for the task (they're just rear fill, really). I have a pair of old - but capable - Kenwood KFC-W1204dB+ 12" dB+ for the subwoofers - I'm probably over-powering these. The fronts are still some cheapie 3-way Pioneers I bought to upgrade the factory paper factory speakers when I bought the car in 2007 - with all of the other upgrades that I've performed in the meantime, they're really letting everything else down. I've been heavily eyeing off the FOCAL K2 Power 165KR, but I'm not even sure if they'll fit in the front. Does anyone have any experience with these speakers, and can share their experiences? Does anyone know if they'll even fit the front doors of a skyline (R34 GTT)? Thanks in advance.

Strange. The nismo s-tune one I have for my R34 GT-T (http://www.rhdjapan.com/nismo-s-tune-strut-tower-bar-front-skyline-r33-r34-bnr32.html) definitely has a brake cylinder stopper. Was a bit of a pain to fit initially because of it.

My LMGT4's are 18x8.5" +30 and 18x9.5" +38 - I had thought that was the recommended size from Nismo for R34 GTT. Fits pretty well, some slight scrub at full lock going up a driveway or something.

Goddamn. I need a nice stealth intake like that, hooked up to the stock airbox n all.

Nismo 600cc injectors - Fine If you're putting the standard ECU back in, as you suggest - I can't see this being fine either.

Maybe I'm alone in having driven with my highflow fitted for around 6 months running on a 10psi actuator - the ECU seemed to handle it fine (I did disconnect the factory boost control). If you had a bigger actuator / higher boost, that would definitely be a problem though.

For reference, they changed the tinting laws in SA back in 2010, to be more in-line with the rest of the country - you're pretty much good at 35% all 'round now (used to be 70%)

Tint should only be an issue if it's darker than legal anyway. You can also check your ride-height against: I'm pretty sure this is still the legal / enforcable ride-heights.

I'm still not convinced that a metal intake pipe is required all the time - though I acknowledge it does depend on power and boost levels. For reference, I'm pushing 245.7rwkw with a high-flow turbo and the factory airbox. I asked my tuner (Martin at Wlilall Racing) when he was tuning it about Z32's and metal intake pipe - he said unless I wound the boost up quite a bit more, they weren't necessary. I guess each car is different, maybe see what your tuner recommends?

Some photos I took of my R34 over the weekend ..

They look identical to the skirts on my R34 sedan - which were just regular factory/dealer-optioned Nissan parts. I don't believe there were any Nismo side-skirts for the sedan (like there were for the rear-bar and front-bar).

Unless something has changed, it's not true at all. I came in with the defect I had already had fixed (exhaust), and they then defected me for headlights (xenon), 'excessively blue' parkers, and movement in HICAS steering rack, and they disposed of my original JDM flare. I came back the next day with all that stuff fixed, to their surprise. Bleh. Edit: and here's a link for legal ride-height in SA. As far as I know they only care about the 'eyebrow height' - not the lowest part of the car. http://i.imgur.com/9yWXX.jpg

When my drivers power window was playing up, I took it to Main North Nissan - they told me what was wrong, and I had them order the parts in from Japan and fit it later. It wasn't cheap, but I knew they would fix it right.

I thought the only difference between the turbo/non-turbo dashes I thought was the slip/tcs have a cover over them in the non-turbo, and turbo has spots for bulbs. I had a dash I picked up cheap for some parts years ago anyway - that seemed to be the main difference. Might be wrong, though.

Seems a bit overpriced for what you have? Doing a quick search online for each of those parts, then including a reasonably priced keyboard and power-supply - even at the highest prices I could find - I could barely hit $2000. The system doesn't even have an SSD, and uses a previous generation i7. Good luck with the sale.

If it goes away when you're in Neutral and your foot is OFF the clutch - its the thrust bearing. If it goes away when you're in Neutral and your foot is ON the clutch - it's the input shaft bearing. This often goes with the cluster shaft bearing. You may also be getting a whine whilst driving which goes away in 4th gear as well in that situation - as that's the only time there's no pressure on the cluster shaft. My gearbox has both of these symptoms - and has done for about 5 years - steadily getting worse. I'm at the point where I want to get the gearbox professionally pulled down and assessed for repair or replacement - cos I'm not comfortable with it - especially how loud it gets after a long road trip (Adelaide -> Melbourne, for instance)

I haven't gotten around to installing that sensor for my MFD yet (I have a brand new sensor from Nissan waiting for install) because I haven't been sure where best to install it, or how to do it properly without air-leaks, etc. (Anyone with suggestions, feel free to let me know ) However, keep in mind this sensor and read-out on the MFD wasn't an 'intake temperature sensor' but an 'intercooler temperature sensor'. The sensor itself when factory fitted to the R34 GTR was actually plugged into a spot on the factory FMIC - I can't recall it if it was on the 'hot' side or the 'cooled' side, though (Perhaps someone here knows). This may influence why you're getting different readings from those with a GTR, and the sensor itself could definitely be affected by heatsoak given the different position you have it installed.

I have two nismo engine mounts for sale - model 11220-RS540. They have stickers on them incorrectly marking for an R34, but as per the nismo model number they're the front left engine mount on a Nissan 180SX PS13, RPS13, S14, S15. As per the marketing blurb from nismo: Obviously if you're wanting to upgrade, you'll probably want the front right & transmission mount as well - which I do not have - but they're easy enough to source online. They're brand new in the box - never used. Looking for $100 each.