jrm

The three main bits with the orange around them are the usual culprits for dry joints - you shouldn't even need more solder - just clean up the gunk, then heat them up with an iron to re-flow, and should be good. The orange is a good indicator of an issue with the joint. I re-flowed those three joints on mine (only ones showing issues) when the gauge was starting to play up on occasion (usually going over bumps), and it's been perfect since. If you see any others that look dry - might be worth cleaning up & re-flowing those too.

Given that remote start isn't legal, is it worth bothering? ("ADR 25 requires that the normal function of the engine only occurs when the ignition lock is in the engine on position")

Yeah some pumps I have major major issues - look like an idiot with people staring, others it's fine - no issues. Definitely try other peoples suggestions - pull it out a little bit, don't pull so hard, change the angle, all sorts. Usually works.

Sounds like your HICAS computer - located in the boot - is most likely at fault. Could be dry-solder joints affecting connection between components when you're hitting bass, or something more sinister - though I'd doubt it given it's perfect when there's no bass. Given how far away the sensors are (and how simple they are) I would think the HICAS computer is more likely than the sensors. Anyways, I'd be pulling the HICAS computer out and checking it out. If you see any dry joints, very easy to re-flow them with a soldering iron Check out some of the other HICAS related threads where people re-flow solder (and some have to replace parts from leaking capacitors).

You owned it before the rules came in - just apply for an exemption. (A quick search would have shown these come up about once a week - no it's not legal, it'll run badly, and it'll cost you more than it's worth - we always tell people, sell it or get a beater till you can get your fulls - but your situation should easily get an exemption cos you can prove you owned it before the new rules).

Yeah, I just don't like the other bits, really. GTR-look front though, yum. I've contemplated taking the GTR bonnet + Ken Lowe R34 NUR-style NACA duct + EB bonnet mole with factory bar approach .. would be sex

Definitely shouldn't be a fee - I've changed the names on leases before. The only fees that may be involved relate to the bond - the person leaving has to get their bond back, and the new person has to contribute their share of the bond - perhaps that's the $275? (If it's not the bond fee, then you'll definitely want to sort that out - as this would definitely need to be sorted out - any damage to the premises that the person leaving has done will otherwise be the responsibility of the people left, etc)

Eh, I don't want those bits for mine .. factory-option sedan kit is fine for me (if I ever get around to painting & fitting it...)

Ah if only East Bear bar & GTR Bonnet (+ latch/hinges/etc) didn't cost so much .. would totally do that to my GT-T too .. Already have GTR pedals, GTR climate control & GTR MFD .. tehehe .. *so so sad*

Fit a bolt-on silencer for the muffler? Surely someone you know can lend one?

Trying to embed a file pointed at your computer isnt gonna work - either upload to imageshack.us or host on the site.

Ask a specialist - I'm sure any gearbox specialist familiar with the box should be able to give you sound advice on the bearings ..

Wow, and it wasn't even La Bomba who started this thread .. then again, he's non-turbo ..

^- speaking of pedobear ...

This is often a 'fix' for stopping old coils that are damaged/split from arcing out against the head. (Because the silicon acts an insulator). Another method people use is to tape them up. See: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fi...em-t119403.html Anyways - it's a good indicator that your coil packs have had issues in the past and someone has bandaided it. Perhaps follow the above thread, tape up your coil packs and if the issue goes away - there's your culprit. Either way, it's probably a good sign for you to replace them with splitfires or yellowjackets.

My only gripe is that you've compromised the water-tight housing by cutting big holes in them. The factory xenons can fit in there without cutting a big hole in the back - I'm sure you could have found a neater way of running the wiring in from the balast than that

Seems a bit dumb to add when you're just gonna have to remove it whenever the popo sends you off to Regency

Looks like it's doing exactly what it's supposed to - it's a narrow-band sensor - you cant expect much.

pedobear would have had a field-day

.... yeah, no.

TPG .. gotta be the worst ISP in Australia *shudder* I wouldn't touch 'em with a bargepole.

And thermostat ..

Odd, everything I've read says km's are based on the chassis. (You can change the engine, doesn't mean diddly to the km the car has travelled).

I drive it daily, tis horrible indeed .. I've been using it to find the rattles in my car to fix them

Convert to non-xenon - talk to a compliance shop. There are cheaper ways (see the defect thread for more tips) - but that's the proper way.