jrm

They're all horrible. (Bottom right if you MUST)

Silvia Q are non-LSD aren't they?

I cant imagine a daily driver is going to be legal with carbon panels either (unless someone wishes to spend crazy amounts of money getting it engineered in destructive tests..)

I suggest you consider an advanced drivers training course to get yourself familiar with your car and RWD.

Those lights typically come on during coilpack issues - look through the various threads - everyone reports the same thing. Guessing it's the car's way of indicating a problem.

Wow, what's all that crap hanging from behind your mirror

Probably threads on it - all you need is a box sitting in-line with your antenna that will change the frequencies. It should have been done at compliance time though. Be aware it's still going to show the wrong frequency on the display. A quick google finds: http://www.bridgwater-electronics.co.uk/p_...nd+Expander.php Should be easy enough to buy one of these locally. You may find it easier just to put a decent head unit in - I know I did.

I swear your avatar is gonna give me an epileptic fit, La Bomba

I used the exact paint as the OP on my R34 a few weeks ago - plenty of prep with sandpaper, primer, etc - but I tend to think you need to put in a good effort to get the right finish. Anyway, I think it came up fine (trial fitting before putting the stereo back in):

I'm usually a DIY-er, but I'm wondering if I shouldn't get you to do some of the more obscure areas on my car, Sapphire..

To further above comment, I'm guessing I must have heard it multiple places - googled and found these: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=4706132 http://www.trackchat.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=2976 also mentions it (post #18) http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/inde...st&p=303028 http://www.karttechnik.com/news/?p=712 .. which seem to support what I've said. However, the post at http://www.karttechnik.com/news/?p=712 suggests it could be to fill the tyre up, whilst checking the tyre pressure with the other with a dedicated meter - this also seems plausible. Either way, more manufacturers than just rota are doing this, and finding it on a rota rim is really just because they've "borrowed" the design from another manufacturer.

It will, but you'd need to shorten it near the muffler - the exhausts are different lengths.

So Paul is saying that R33 manual have a 7psi actuator? ... That sounds different to everything else I've read. Anyway - R34 is the same as what you're saying R33 auto is (and everything I've read about R33 manual) - 5psi below 4500, 7psi above (because of 2psi bled by solenoid). Of course, as soon as you add an aftermarket exhaust back into the mix - all bets are off what boost the car will run.

I thought it was mostly used for cars where you nitrogen-fill vs oxygen-fill (something to do with sucking out the air when you nitrogen fill?), but it might have been an old wives tale I overheard..

Never worked for me in my 34 (Edit: though you are 20 years older... I still feel ancient compared all the 20-somethings on here...)

I think your pic is better than my steering wheel pic, that's for sure

is the R34 wheel....

I wish I had some before-after to show you guys how far gone you can still 'fix' a leather steering wheel. My N14 wheel I had written off and been wanting to get re-covered. I figured I was gonna re-condition/re-dye the R34 wheel, and so I'd give the N14 a go for a laugh, and I'm honestly stunned at how well it's come up. I used the product from PPCCO - http://www.ppcco.com.au/kits6.htm Damn cheap really, though lots of prep work with various treatments, sanding, filler, etc depending how far it's gone. I figured for $50 it was a cheap chance to have a go and see if it would work rather than forking out $250+ on the two wheels on my cars .. Eh, hey - each to their own. I don't mind trying a bit of DIY - figured I couldn't be in a worse position if I messed it up.

Have you considered re-conditioning it? Leather, being what it is, can quite often be brought back from quite hideous states to near-new. I recently did this on both of my cars, and the 12 and 17-year old steering wheels now look near-factory.

You should, ideally, use whatever the car is running now. If you don't know what's in there now, I'd probably suggest DOT4 (though I seem to recall it may say 'DOT3' on the lid). That said, if you don't know what's in there, it could be a good opportunity to flush the entire system and replace it with fresh fluid. Anyways - DOT5 is silicon-based not glycol-based and isn't typically used in road cars. It also isn't "compatible" with other brake fluids (DOT3/4). That said, you may be confusing it with DOT5.1 (sorta like a 'better' DOT4). See: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DOT_4 http://www.motorcycleproject.com/motorcycl...brakefluid.html for details on the differences.

heh, looks similar to results on mine. .. dont have a before/after like you tho (I haven't bothered putting the monsoon shields back on yet either - gonna try and re-color them first)

Been told that Rory Thompson of Thompson Services does them (SA) - guessing that's who did it.

http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=twink

CONSULT should be able to display TPS position %

Gee, only 65,000km on the dash .. *cough* weird, I didn't pay near that for the one in my car ... Given all the other items they've quoted costs for, they really seem to have an over-inflated opinion of what adds value to a car. Aren't screamers illegal? TBH, the entire car seems like a big sign saying 'defect me' - but eh that's my view. Hope they don't live in SA or VIC or they like bending over ... Lots of threads saying it's impossible to get a RB30/25 conversion through EPA in Vic without spending $3k per test (which you could fail). Ah well ...