jrm

I'd love to know where to get grit guards - I've rung around places - nobody seems to sell 'em

Is it school holidays again or something - people bumping 5+ year-old threads, and people getting their post-count up seem to be scarily common lately...

Yeah, nearly 5.5 years at the same job here - moved to Adelaide for the job from interestate. Job is still decent and pays well (IT stuff), so I haven't seen any reason to move on. Bloody hell, I pay more than that in rent :S

I try and do my best with car stuff - spanner work like simple servicing a car I can handle, but I wouldn't do a timing belt. Hell, ripping interior trim apart to swap interior carpet over, or putting in a stereo - sure... But for me, this is getting beyond comfort level Drilling into the firewall scares the begeezus outta me (and I don't even own a pot-rivet gun!) Realistically, I'd rather just take this to someone and have them go 'uhhh chuck us $50-100 and i'll take care of it' ..

It's pretty difficult to get pics, unfortunately - I'll try and get some tonight. Basically there's a pivot/spring point which seems to be bolted to a backing plate. That backing plate is sorta /\ shaped which is spot-welded at the top and bottom to the firewall behind sound-deadening (there's a hole in the sound deadening to let it poke through for bolting onto). Right now the sound-deadening is all that's hold it in-place, making it vaguely drivable. The pivot/spring should be able to be unbolted from the part that's normally welded to the firewall, and then slid through the sound-deadening. The idea of welding this to plate and then bolting that to the firewall sounds like a sound engineering idea to me. So RubyRS4 - are you or do you know someone who can just take care of this for me? (andrew_r32GTR - is this how you'd be able to do it for me?) Either way, I can't imagine it'd cost too much ($50-100), but I do want to ensure it gets done right - especially position-wise (the accelerator pedal position to the brake pedal is important for heel-toe - though I'm wondering if that's one of the reasons it snapped...)

6-year thread bump for pointless post ftl

I have that exact GTT badge sitting in a drawer here because I realised how stupid I'd look if I ever put it on my car

yeah - I've been looking at it this afternoon and with the sound deadening there and the way the mount is I reckon it would suck hard to weld. I can understand why the guy in the othrer thread just rivetted but bolting sounds better to me - assuming you can get to the back of the bolt. Guessing it's just the firewall? It seems scarily common for these to break... Anyway - tips on mechanic who did it for you? Was it anyone special?

How does buying another one help? It's spot welded from the factory at the top and bottom - it doesn't bolt in. (Probably why it's so easy to snap) Options really from the previous posted thread - bolt it on (seems dodgy) or find someone to weld it. I guess I'm looking for suggestions on somewhere to take this who can fix it.

Hey all, Noticed my accelerator pedal last week was loose - checked it out, top spot weld at the pivot/spring was snapped. Last night I was out driving, and the bottom point snapped - making driving rather difficult. This has obviously become kinda urgent to fix now. A search of the forums shows searched thread, but no real resolution that I'm happy with. I guess what I need to do is find someone who's willing to weld this as soon as possible. Anyone have any suggestions on someone who might do this? Given it's such a bitch to get in there, and the amount of carpetting, sound deadening - I can't imagine it's going to be an easy fix - especially the fire risk from welding. Is there anyone here who's capable of doing the welding required maybe? (I'm happy to do any prep work about taking the carpetting, etc out) Anyway, any suggestions on fixes (preferably today, or at least this weekend) would be great.

The problem's going to be finding someone with the L3 cams license that can bring it in for you to act as signatory on paperwork I would have thought? (Or they can bring it in at their cost and on-sell it to you..)

Hell, I wouldn't even put my R34 GT-T into 5th gear at 50kph - 4th is about the limit, and I can't imagine how badly it wouldn't move under full acceleration. For me, cruising at 60kph in 5th sure, but even then I wouldn't floor it then - I don't think it would really 'pick up' too well (4th is a different story). These are off-boost situations for the most part, so it should be fairly similar to the RB25DE. I dunno, I think your expectations are a little off to me? What's anyone else think?

Yeah, heatgun and fishing line is the usual trick to avoid damaging paintwork with things like weathershelds or badges. Worked for me The CF look sticker is a lot more painful to remove (took me ages) - and then you have to remove all the sticky residue from the double-sided tape and the CF sticker too (It's a shame you live in QLD too - I have a silver R34 sedan spoiler under the bed in my spare room - I upgraded to a coupe spoiler)

I'm guessing the hose you're talking about is the vacuum tubing at the top of the BoV that acts as a pressure source with the internal spring that ensures that it is closed under normal conditions, and then opening when under pressure differential. This is how BoVs work. If that's what you're talking about - then removing that will basically screw the operation of the BoV (and car) completely - it'll just be held closed by the pressure of the internal spring, and would leak under any boost conditions. What are you actually trying to achieve? The ECU shouldn't be dumping fuel into the system from the BoV unless you have it plumbed back before the AFM (kinda stupid) or you're using an atmosphere venting BoV. Anyone else have any comments?

As above, this really won't work - other bulbs won't fit in the housing, and the only plug you'll have left is from the HID ballast (which you're planning to disconnect). Seriously - there are better ways. See if you can't pick up some non-xenon or converted compliance lights for passing inspection. Alternatively, I think it took all of maybe an hour or two to make it so I can temporarily convert my headlights over to regular non-HID bulbs specifically for the purposes of passing Regency. This was done using a cheap ($20) foglight wiring kit (it included a relay, fuse mount and long wiring) and some cut-back bulbs in the standard mounting. To go into more details - the relay/fuse were mounted into the standard under-bonnet fuse box, and right trigger from the standard headlight switch was wired into the relay for the trigger. Wiring from this was then run in two sets to the headlights themselves. Using extensive cable-ties and black wire-loom stuff to keep it all factory looking - you wouldn't really even know it's been done, and I like that. For the headlight housings themselves, I used a dremel to put in make tiny hole barely big enough to run the wiring in to to the bulbs, and then spade terminals to plug into the bulbs. The bulbs themselves were (I *think* - it's been a while) H7's that had their bases slightly cut back to fit into the standard D2R mounting points. The beauty of this setup is, all it takes is taking the HID fuse out of the fuse box, putting it into the new fuse spot, then swapping the bulbs over to the cut-down H7's if I ever need to pass through Regency again (maybe 5 minutes work). I will note, after having driven the car with these bulbs (just for a test run the night before inspection), whilst the bulb sits in the reflector housing at the right place, the lighting is terrible - I honestly feel sorry for anyone who's stuck with compliance xenon ex-HID headlights after getting used to the 'real thing'. Good luck with it.

duh .. What's 56k? (Seriously, who still bothers with those warnings?)

Nope - definitely not pull off - they're metal and part of the actual door. Keep in mind that sedans are not pillarless doors like coupes. From everything I've read, the CF decals are a dealer option on sedans - it's extremely common - seen it on 70%+ of the R34 sedans I've looked at. Anyway, there's body paint directly behind the sticker, so you really need to be very careful you don't damage the paintwork using a scraper or something if you're not planning on putting something back over the pillars again. I used a heatgun and took my time with it - last thing you want to do is damage the paintwork from being over-zealous. If you need to remove the weathershields - take your time - they're held on with double-sided tape, and a couple of screws. It's a bit of a pain to do, but if you take your time with a heatgun and some fishing line it's doable without damaging them. I'm planning on getting my weathershields ('monsoon shields' I think they call 'em) re-sprayed or something before I re-fit because they're looking UV damaged (going purple). My end-goal was to replace the faded old 10+ year-old CF sticker with 3M DI-NOC CF vinyl (there's a whole thread on this stuff in the cosmetic section). IMO it looks good - certainly better than it was - but each to their own:

There's definitely been people on this forum finding 220rwkw on the standard 370cc, but I'd understood that was the limit without increasing the base fuel pressure. I'd also always understood the nismo 480cc injectors to be roughly good for 480hp at the engine and 280+rwkw? (480hp = 357.9kw .. take 20% drivetrain loss - 286.32rwkw) Can anyone else confirm their experiences?

when an officer sent me to Regency for my exhaust, he added the factory rear privacy glass to the list, despite me showing him the sticker on the glass saying it was UV privacy glass. The inspector at Regency laughed at the officer and ticked it off as fine - so I wouldn't stress too much. I suspect whilst a cop might add to an existing defect, they're not going to go out of their way to single you out just for the glass. (Not to say they won't use it as an indicator to look around the car for as many things as they can to add to the list)

Certainly isn't allowed in SA; Not sure about other states tho ... I'd be contacting appropriate transport authorities and checking - but I'd doubt it'd be allowed (given ADRs, emissions, etc)

If ID check are the same people who do regular regency inspections .. or even if they call 'em over cos they're not sure - yeah. I say this because I got done for my factory xenons when I last went through Regency (he called someone over cos he wasn't sure). Because they're not auto-levelling and don't have any washing function, they don't pass ADRs. Anyway, an hour or two with a foglight wiring kit, some cutdown H7 (I think) globes, and I converted them over for the next pass through - fairly easy (.. and horrible lighting in the meantime till I put the old globes put back in) It was for me. I've transferred two cars into SA rego (N14 SSS and R34 GTT), one from NSW and the other from Vic - both in my name interstate and was a straight transfer, I don't think they even did an ID check, just signed some papers, paid my money, changed plates - voila.

Exterior trims? You mean monsoon shields, or something else?

I realise it's off-topic (consider it a free bump), but I have to say the 'to' instead of 'too' in your signature is kinda ... not good.

Not trying to hijack the thread at all, but my accelerator pedal pivot point has recently snapped at the top weld point (bottom one is still fine, so the car is drivable and it's also being held in by the carpet/backing there). Who would I go to to get this fixed? I would imagine it's a fair bit of work, cos the welding could end up setting interior stuff on fire? And there's a lot of carpetting/backing around the accelerator pedal? I've searched the threads, and only found one other person this has happaned to (who's posted about it anyway), and they just riveted it in-place (despite everyone else in the thread telling them to just get it welded). Thoughts?

me either .. i love my iphone .. never understood the 'zomg i just wanna install stuff and apple says NO .. wah wah' people go on about.