jrm

Saw a few skylines on the way through the city on the way home this afternoon ... Red R32 GTR with V SPEC2 numberplates .. he loved spooling it up Silver R32 GTST .. looked pretty stock .. Silver R34 sedan with factory bodykit, no wing - seen this car a few times on Prospect Rd lately. Couldn't figure out if it was a GT or GT-T .. had red GT badging, but no stock gauges in the dash, and didn't hear turbo spool .. very odd.

There's lots of water-transfer printed carbon-look trim pieces for R34's I'd love that I've seen on ImportMonster. The price isn't stupidly high, but as soon as you add in the shipping/IM charges - it becomes pointless

enjoy

You created an account just to post stupid questions? You / your dad needs to learn how ATESSA works - The GTR isn't that stupid: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Attesa Short story - GTRs are primarily RWD until the system determines that it should put torque to the front wheels: If you're getting single rear wheel skids, then your rear diff is shagged - service it, recondition it or replace it - whatever - see a mechanic. Seriously, your car is how old? You can't honestly expect everything still to be in 100% working order (especially if it's not regularly serviced).

I'm sure I've read discussions that rear strut braces on R33/R34 are pointless and provide no benefit (besides visual) because of the design of the chassis? Perhaps a search will turn up more?

You really need to learn to use the *SEARCH* button. This topic has been covered extensively.

They still banning gay people from donating blood?

Pretty big accusation for no details; Can you back up why you're throwing out these allegations?

Use NEO RB25DET? Has solid lifters from the factory?

If you consider this is a primarily aussie forum, and in australia a car is not able to run an atmo-BOV and remain street-legal it's not really much of a consideration for most here

Their website doesn't give a lot of details; Wonder if it's even Australian standards approved ..

In my experience, it starts kicking in about 50-60kph, and turns off about 110kph. This diagram illustrates how it works: I learned the speeds that it kicks in from when my HICAS developed a fault - the steering angle sensor was mis-aligned. In this situation as it believed the steering wheel was at an angle when the car was straight, the steering wheel would sorta 'roll over' trying to correct the rear wheels turning, and the car would start to crab; This only happened at speeds above 60kph and then got steadily worse up until 110kph when the steering wheel would snap-straight as HICAS turned off, causing the entire rear end to fishtail (a scary experience).

Yes, Kelvin is a measure of temperature, it's also a measure of color temperature. In the context of a light-source like this, they're referring to the color temperature. http://www.3drender.com/glossary/colortemp.htm

Voltage at idle should be anything from 13.5-14.4V, if you're only seeing 11.9V or so, there's definitely an issue with the alternator, and it's probably not adequately charging the battery either. I'd be talking to an auto-elec and get them to check it out. I wouldn't be surprised when you had the connections back to front when jump-starting it fried something in the alternator. Either way, shouldn't be too expensive to replace or recondition to fix it up.

FAT32 supports quite large partitions - up to 2TB (up to 8TB with larger 32KB clusters) Yes, it does have a limitation on files no larger than 4GB. FAT32 does support long files names.

Ask a mechanic? I've asked a mechanic to clean up my engine bay - degrease, etc before - they had no problems taking care of it. (on my N14 SSS)

lulz nice one

Luke, You got any pics of the roof lining / pillars?

Don't have any problem with chicks - hot or otherwise; When I buy a car magazine it's for the cars. I find that women sprawled around/on the cars detract from the car and the magazine. I'm very glad that HPI / Zoom don't do the same nonsense that Fast Fours / Hot Fours / etc do... (Mind you, those particular magazines fail for so many other reasons too ..)

Whilst the nismo unit reads up to 1.2 bar compared to the standard gauge, it's still very difficult to get an accurate reading from. The map sensor itself thats the sender for the boost gauge itself is reasonable accurate (watching the results on an MFD screen you can get quite accurate results against a regular boost gauge) - it's just a shame that Nissan provided a gauge that it's impossible to determine the 'real' boost level you're receiving.

You have to consider that the skylines we have are typically 10 years old, and local mechanics are often unfamiliar with HICAS. It's very easy to mess up your alignment or steering rack and cause HICAS to cause steering issues. Additionally, after 10 years, the sensors can mess up and require expensive replacement. Many people fit aftermarket steering wheels, and these require HICAS compatible boss kits. On a track car, and at the extremes of handling HICAS can upset the balance of the car as the HICAS will counteract the steering imputs you're trying to give it in it's attempt to straighten up the car. For regular every day driving, and highway driving I personally find HICAS useful, you can feel it at work changing lanes, going around corners at speed, etc - but I've also experienced how unpredictable it can make the car feel at the limits. One consideration for those removing their HICAS is to ensure that they get it engineered (though most don't bother); Removing HICAS is a defectable item if an inspector catches you.

Magazines that need women sprawled over the cover or blocking the cars during the features aren't magazines i'd ever buy ... they annoy the shit outta me

No real surprise - coupes have pillarless doors and sedans do not.

I had a safety flare in mine, until my car went through a defect inspection and the inspector confiscated it saying it should have been removed at compliance. I really want it back You realise all of these changes will make the car defectable right? The traction control has a switch to turn it off anyway - and 666DAN can supply a box to make it off by default (and switch to turn it on). Removing ABS and airbag for anything but a track only car is just silly IMO (as well as illegal). Why would you want to compromise the safety of your car?

I don't have any gripes with advertising - I understand the costs of running high-end hosting through my exployer. I've also donated to these forums, because I feel they're worth supporting. However, these particular types of 'drop down banner ads' have caused me a number of problems. Essentially, at least on firefox, if you're on a page that has a form to be entered (login username/password, or a new post on a thread), the form seems to get 'blanked' over. Sometimes when the banner ad flows back to the top, the form doesn't re-appear. This has led to a number of situations where I've lost a message I've been typing in has been lost, and I've had to type it over again, which can get a bit frustrating. I honestly hope the administrators will consider not supporting these particular types of ads.