jrm

I purchased a Cooling Pro Intercooler - Type 1 approximately 3 years ago from JustJap when I picked up my car in Sydney - it's since sat in my garage in the box untouched - taking up space. I believe these fit both R33 and R34. It's literally still in it's original boxing with all of the piping, core, etc there. Pretty sure it looks like this: I have no use for it, as I've since purchased a second-hand Blitz intercooler. If anyone wants it - $300 ono Happy to provide pics on request.

Who knows how long the 'new' battery was sitting on the shelf. Take it back under warranty and get them to test/replace it?

I've had a bit of a play doing my R34 manual gear surround, and running into dramas on trying to do the lighter area - where it curves into it so severely. I don't really wanna waste more vinyl on trying again before posing a question out there on tips/suggestions. Whilst I can't see whether you've done it well on the lighter surround - do you have any tips Volk34? Charles89? Thanks in advance. Jenna

I've been avoiding the custom plates because they make the car too easy to remember - If I do get something it'll probably be something simple - JRMS-34 maybe. As for rims - I can't decide on any that I think are subtle enough to make me happy - not a big fan of bling mods (though the carbon vinyls I've been applying lately might contradict that...). I've been thinking maybe R34 GTR rims might be the way to go - bigger, wider but still suit the lines of the car without going over the top. As for not being pulled over as much - I dunno, they see the Skyline badge and/or the stovetop tail lights and pull me over anyway. I've had one cop go 'wow, I didn't realise this was a four door - nice' after he'd finished doing a 'license check' *eye roll*

Yeah, I dunno - I moved here (was transferred here) specifically cos they were offering the same rates as I was getting interstate... Mind you, as with mentioned previously - lifestyle tends to match income - I still scrape by some fortnights ..

Maybe I just have a skewed perspective of incomes from having lived in Melbourne/Sydney and working IT (primarily UNIX sysadmin, Cisco net engineer, etc). To me, $45-50/hr (at a full-time, 37.5-40 hours per week) doesn't seem that unusual - but I guess looking at it more realistically, it's right out of the ball-park for most people...

I swear you guys never spot my car (or at least mention it in here) - though I do see other skylines about the place. Maybe it's just a 4D R34 and it looks too stock to mention ..

Every auto-elec and electronics person I've talked to says to steer-clear of those devices, and to strip and solder (that's what I've done for my own ECU) ... but each to their own.

... What's unusual with earning $50/hr

Don't suppose you still have the R34 GTR intake temp sensor (usually sits on the intercooler) - and are willing to split it?

Well, I just did my R34 sedan b-pillars and the door sills. I think it turned out pretty well: Next up is probably the rear bar then interior pieces, I guess - I'm slowly learning how to mould the carbon vinyl around curves and the more tricky areas. It's certainly a learning experience!

It's a round/oval shaped device near the rear drivers side of the engine bay, near the brake booster. You should be able to follow the vacuum hose near the back of the plenum to the bottom of the boost sensor. These are known to fail after a few years, and typically just need to have their dry-joints re-soldered (this is what I recently did to my own after it played up twice in a week - haven't had a single issue since).

It seems to go down to 90ish when i can get going at 60kph, but just worrisome to me. I've had a look at my service logs, and the receipt for the radiator service says '30% blocked'. However, I'd assumed they'd fixed that, but now I'm wondering if they had! The car is hitting 93,000km, and approaching it's 100,000km service - plan is to change water pump at that time (is it worth putting a colder thermostat in too?). Thermostat from what I can tell seems to work normally otherwise, but hard to know? One of my biggest worries is I have a Blitz FMIC sitting on my dining room table ready to go in. Last thing I want to do is block my radiator more and cause more overheating woes. Pondering maybe taking the car back to the radiator specialist and asking them to do a flow-test. I'm assuming that shouldn't be stupidly expensive? Alternatively, might have to bring forward my 100,000km service plans and/or not drive on these hot days :S

Hey guys, Since we've had such crazy hot weather this year, and this year I've been using my R34 GT-T for more daily duties I've found my car running quite hot during days like today (ambient temps seem to read between 40-43C). My MFD is showing water temps hitting 99-100C sitting in stop-go traffic and oil temps hitting 95-98C. Factory gauge (as expected) just sits in the middle - so glad I have the MFD to let me know what's going on. Anyway, during this time (and pretty much any time water temps hit anything more than 90C) I can hear the radiator clutch fan going even at more than idle speeds (sounds like a commodore when they take off with that sorta wooshing noise). I had my radiator serviced about 20,000km ago, new fluid, new top tank etc. I've also checked coolant fluid levels and they're fine. Is this just normal behaviour in 40-45C ambient temps or should I get the radiator checked for blockage and/or clutch fan checked (that it is so wooshy/loud at water temps >90C worries me - but its not on when it's cooler - so it seems to be working okay, right?) I've done a search but I can't find any real authoritative answer for my question. Perhaps the knowledgable folk of SAU can help with some ideas/thoughts/comments? Thanks!

There's a sorta 'baffle' thing in the stock airbox that you can remove that will make the stock BOV much louder if you remove it - if you like that sort of thing.

And SOLD .. to me

Have SMS'd and dropped you a message

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ni...vi-t137554.html .. was where I was planning to grab the bits for my 100,000km service (including cam seals)

They're probably platinum - should only need changing every 100,000km...

From what I recall, they're generally something you do at the 100,000km service along with the water pump, timing belt, plugs, etc ... Who knows how many KM your car has been wound back, anyhow? (if any)

New? tweels were announced years ago now ... Think it was announced in 2005 or so? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tweel http://www.gizmag.com/go/3603/ http://www.cbsnews.com/stories/2005/01/27/...ain669888.shtml

So what did you do? (And where did you source the LCD adhesives..)

Would figure it would be easier to splice a wire in from the O2 sensor at the ECU though personally (that's what i did)

Personally I couldn't care less - I aint planning to sell my ride anytime soon.

It'll be input shaft bearing / cluster shaft bearing. My car has done the same thing since I bought it.