jrm

I don't suppose you know if you could run a setup like this on an RB25? I've been trying to track down something that would be street-legal and fairly stock looking for a while - I ended up realising a closed-loop oil/air seperator like nismos would do the trick - but I didn't want to waste coin on something that looked designed for an RB26. Would love to hear more.

Steering wheel 'rolling over' at speed (increasing as speeds pass 60kph) is what happened on my car when the steering angle sensor was mis-aligned with the wheels. If you cant answer the diagnostic mode at all - sounds like your steering angle sensor isn't working though. Do you have an aftermarket boss? Nissan dealers with CONSULT should be able to get into the HICAS diagnostics and pinpoint exactly what's wrong (that's what I did).

If you're only doing mild modifications, you'd be mad to go past nistune. Basically unlocks the ability to tune your factory ECU. It's also a lot more police/defect-friendly because they can't really detect you're running a tunable ECU.

Price on the snorkel? What cars does it fit?

Are the Porsche Sprints something people can come and spectate at too?

Why are you going a pod over a panel is I guess the question - a high-flowing panel is probably going to produce better results performance-wise (and not have the dramas of a pod with heat-soak, or requiring a heat-sheild, etc). A pod will produce more induction sound than a panel though (though at least with an R34 you can remove a bit of baffling from inside the airbox lid and make it MUCH louder too ...). Personally, I went k&n panel and removed the baffling in the airbox. It makes the car look less cop-bait under the bonnet and less induction noise means it's gonna attract less attention too. SA Police hand out enough defects - no point making yourself more a target, I reckon.

Wow .. so many Apple haters.

Have you done a search & read the threads on HICAS - and doing a HICAS diagnostic? That should probably be your first step.

Wouldn't be surprised if the dimmer sits in the same illumination wire for radios/etc - which would make sense (that's the wire I've seen cause problems with the rear parkers/dash lights). So yeah - definitely worth checking the dimmer (if one is fitted).

Not sure if it's related - but on N14's - when rear parkers / interior dash lights go - they're on the same fuse under the dash. For me, they'd blow when they were getting a dodgy signal from the illumination wire in the radio (for some reason on N14's it's black - and the previous bozo owner had used it as the ground-wire). I'd definitely be checking your fuses first and foremost.

I'm sure if he parked it somewhere in a bad area and someone vandalised it by hitting and cracking it - he'd get a new one ...

Johnny, I recently serviced my car, put a DRIFT filter in, figured it couldnt be too bad - magnetic and claims to have anti-drain back. My car now does the exact same thing you mentioned. Car now takes 1-2 seconds (when cold) for oil pressure to register and the oil light to go out. That has me fairly concerned. The old oil filter didn't have that problem at all. Is this something I should be concerned about? It's really starting to freak me out the longer I leave it - I really don't want to have to drop all my expensive Motul oil to have to change the filter either. I guess I could catch most of it and put it back through with a top-up .. it's only got maybe 1000km on it.

Given I wasn't even at fault for the accident, I'm pretty frustrated and disappointed that I've ended up with a car that's been repaired in a sub-standard way to be honest. Hopefully I can find a reasonably priced painter who can take on repainting the bumper/bonnet and then parts of the factory R34 bodykit that I've managed to source over the last few months (and maybe also the infamous R34 trait of rust around the brake light in the boot)

I had mine insured through Shannons and had their recommended repairer fix it - I wish I hadn't. I'm pretty much going to have to have the front bar and bumper resprayed at my own cost (bumper and bonnet are slightly the wrong color, and the paint just chips off if something as light as insects on the highway hit it). I complained to Shannons, they sent a guy out to check it out - he said the color match was fine and that you can barely notice it (my arse, I've had friends comment on it...), and that the damage to the front bar was caused by stone chips (normal wear) - yes, the previous front bar I'd had with no stone chips that was 10+ years old and had travelled numerous highway kms was just 'lucky'. Happy to pass on their details to avoid them if anyone PMs me (They're in Port Adelaide, tho thankfully neither of the ones you listed).

Aren't all spacers illegal?

Will the HKS kit fit without cutting the reo at all? Sounds small enough based on sizing that it should? Definitely 100% interested if it fits without cutting reo (on an R34). Jenna

HICAS with a broken fuse or in limp mode can make the car feel very unstable around corners / bumps / potholes etc too ... Do you have working HICAS or a lock bar?

Since when is NZ part of Australia? .. isnt this SAU? Skylines AUSTRALIA?

As someone from South Australia where the inspectors will basically look for any external changes from the factory turbo to defect you - is it possible that the external of a Hypergear highflowed RB25 (R34) turbo will look identical to the factory turbo? Are there any lines that require changing? Is it possible to retain factory lines, or is it a requirement to go to something else? I'm guessing changing the wastegate actuator would be an obvious visible difference too - so despite performance benefits, it would be better to use an RB20 (10psi) one or keep the factory R34 (5psi) one to avoid Transport SA issues?

Or you could (relatively cheaply) just buy the adjustable camber/castor kits from Whiteline - from everything I've read adjustable arms/rods lead to more issues in getting a perfect alignment (you need a really good shop) and cost more money, and are often defectable (rose joints) whereas adjustable eccentric bushes/etc do not suffer from these issues

Spotted white R34 coupe with a GTR wing and LED tail lights next to be at the lights at the corner of Regency / Churchill Rd this morning about 9:45am..

I'm over in SA, but yeah - I got defected over my xenon headlights - just with regular bulbs - nothing crazy blue or anything. They also did me for the white bulbs in the parkers etc from DAN666 (said they were 'too blue').

SHDSL is only 2.3Mbps (with one pair anyway), you'd have to multiplex a number of them to get more - and even that wouldn't hit 50Mbps ...

... ? Never had any issue doing this on the iPhone?

iPhone I couldn't live without mine.