jrm

I'm in Adelaide with an R34 4-door with the exact same issue (sun-damaged factory carbon vinyls)... I've been recently in contact with a local seller of DI-NOC, but I'm still waiting a call-back from them. I'm honestly not really looking forward to tackling fixing it - I don't know whether the pillars remove like in coupes - and I'm gonna have to try and remove the factory wind deflectors too (without destroying them!). I'll let you know if they get back to me (they were a reference from the 3M DI-NOC website for retailers in SA).

They are...? How many Hyundai drivers have you seen with their annoying fog lights on? I'm actually glad the police are taking back fog lights as seriously as rear fog lights because they're both annoying as f**k to other drivers. I suspect in most cases the driver doesn't even realise they're on - but that's absolutely no excuse for it.

Woot - and doesn't it look awesome with the coupe not the sedan spoiler on there? .. (Pics of mine with the same change should be floating around in the last page or so)

... wtf .. gallon?

And in some cases even the 'white' LEDs you can get done for (that was something I was picked up during a Regency defect inspection that I had to change my white LED parkers (purchased from Dan666 on these forums) back to regular bulbs because they showed 'too much blue'....

I was gonna suggest at first that maybe that Japan uses the average of RON/MON like America does: (ever notice how Americans rate their octane ratings so much lower? ... this is why ...) .. however, further reading suggests that Japan use the same RON fuel rating methodology as Australia/Europe/etc .. hrmm .. there goes that theory... I got no idea. I wouldn't run my import on anything less than 98RON.

To be honest, as someone who's lived in QLD for 4 years (and in Sydney & Melbourne for about 3-4 years each), I prefer Adelaide over Brisbane... Though I do hate (in comparison to the other states): * The sheer number of police, red-light/speed cameras, and the attitude of the law to import-owners * The abysmal lack of a proper road system here (where are the multi-lane highways, speed limits over 60 - and wtf, 40 zones in lots of residential areas?!) * The amazing number of drivers who refuse to pull out into an intersection when they're turning across traffic - grrrr .. * The road signs that are either badly placed or 50m back from an intersection so when you get there you don't know what intersection it is * None of the food or grocery shops are really open past 9pm weekdays or weekends past 5pm? Forget about it! (gah, there's 24 hour coles in backwards places like Geelong for crying out loud..) Hmmmm .. think that's about it for now .. lol .. Don't get me wrong, I still really like the place - no plans to move

Wow, I've been so flat out with going on holidays, then dealing with a defect notice and then work that I forgot all about this! I'll get my CONSULT cable onto my ECU and get that part # for it - should that be sufficient to identify mine? Happy to put a sticker on it too .. lol .. I'll try and get back to you tonight. Any indications on turn-around times from sending off to getting back? I'd like to try and minimise the amount of downtime from driving my R34 (my other car sucks, and has no aircon which is bad in these high 30's and low 40's) ..

Trying to track down the rear doors central locking actuators; Are these still available, and in good/working condition?

Don't suppose you have the rear door actuators for central locking?

... Glad I don't have to go into the server-room actually .. bloody freezing in there

.. *chillaxes in climate controlled comfort* ...

And now all i can think of is ... ... oh well-a-birds birds birds, the birds is the word! ..

Do you know what color code this is? KV2/KR4/WV2?

Well, you could just use an R34 to ISO plug and then ISO to the headunit plug ... virtually plug & play

Yup - I'm surprised more people don't do it. I'm stunned how much nicer it looks. Now I just need to follow-up with the rest of the factory body-kit. I have the rear pods sitting in my garage, and I've organised for picking up side-skirts in the next week. Then I'll just need to get them fitted and resprayed.... should be good!

0.6 & 0.8 seems kinda high for a stock turbo :S

Well, after the mechanic blamed the HICAS ecu needing a reset, and after digging through many threads, and printing out 70+ pages of nissan workshop information from the R34 and M35 (for the HICAS specific tests which arent listed in the R34 service manual), I found no references to HICAS being able to be reset through CONSULT. At this point, as much as I'd called up Nissan and they were happy to check it out (for a fee) I felt it was probably best to utilise the diagnostic information in the service manuals to try and see what on earth was wrong. So, this Sunday my partner and I ended up and having a poke around. I'll admit, most of the hard work was done by my awesomely talented electronics technician trained other half. Thank-you! We started out by checking the voltages to the HICAS ECU in the boot, which all verified fine against the figures in the service manual, so that ruled out any wiring issues to the HICAS ECU. The HICAS ECU was also only errorring for the sensors during a diagnostic, which suggested that it was operating fine anyway - but it doesn't hurt to follow the service manual procedures and check for good grounds, etc. Anyway, this was followed by jacking the car up, and testing the voltages to each of the sensors on the HICAS rack. Checking the resistance across the various pins with the sensor disconnected showed that the sensor was (or should be) working correctly. Checking the voltage wire on each of the two sensors on the rear rack showed a healthy 5V, exactly what the service manual specified. However, the central signal wire was showing 4mv or something stupidly low. Even after using the adjustment screws to move the sensor - the signal wire did not change. This seemed instantly rather odd as it should have registered different voltages through the adjustment range. This sensor is supposed to (according to the manual) read approximately 2.4V so a few millivolts suggested it was at the maximum of it's resistance. After ripping off the main sensor, connecting up the loom, and moving the internal potentiometer by hand - the voltages varied as expected - indicating the sensor was definitely not at fault. What *was* found at this point was that the sensor appear to be spring-loaded! This led to the obvious conclusion that this spring needed to be loaded up before putting it back onto the rear rack. The sensor housing, it turns out, has a small lip to grab hold of the spring-loaded as it unloads so that it keeps the sensor centered and loaded up appropriately. For the sub-rack sensor it was apparently relatively easy to put this on whilst loaded up, but the main rack sensor required a piece of cotton to hold the spring load in place whilst it was put back onto the rack and then the cotton pulled through afterwards. Sure enough, a healthy 2.5V registered on one sensor and 2.45V on the other. Some small adjustments later, and these each read 2.4V (as specified by the service manual). Starting the car back up, the HICAS light turned itself off as expected. So - that's a result! I guess more than anything, this is a bit of information for anyone in future who has the situation of removing these sensors or have someone who removes the rear rack and runs into this situation. I can only assume that the mechanic in question did not realise when the sensors were removed as part of changing the racks over that these were spring-loaded and needed to be loaded up. It does seem rather odd, especially seeing as I would have expected you'd hear it unwind. I haven't yet talked to the mechanic about it, so we'll have to see. All-in-all, I'm chuffed with having a working HICAS and in great debt to my awesome better half for working electronic and mechanical magic to check it all out, figure out the sensors were spring-loaded and and make it all work again.

Bleh .. all I got through my head now is: They see her trollin' .. they hatin' .. .. Tryin' to catch her trollin' dirty .. ... argh make it stop

Any more updates on this? I'm kinda thinking it must be time to check/fix mine - but not at $130x2 ..

Guy was just looking for something to get me for - tried for the tint (but it's factory), ended up doing test and finding the exhaust was too loud, of all things (annoying after I'd requested the original installer of the exhaust some 2.5+ years ago to make sure it was legal). Regency subsequently took their piece of flesh in finding more things wrong (excessive movement in rear steering rack - my suspension guy had seen it long before and said it was well within spec), and factory xenons (which weren't removed during compliancing. Oddly enough they didn't even test the exhaust when it went through (which was the thing it was defected for!)

I've been on the search for one pretty much since I bought my R34gtt - still nothing I can find off the shelf that 'just works' yet - and pretty much everyone (including manufacturers) I've talked to saying 'you're never going to find something that does without going a custom core & piping'. There is the ARC SMIC, but that's not an FMIC, the core size doesn't (to me) seem like much of an upgrade, and it's quite expensive (unless you can find one second-hand at a reasonable price). I've seen a few people on the forums using an XR6T core or uprated (larger) XR6T core with custom piping to the factory location, but given the XR6T core size vs factory R34 GTT size, it doesn't seem like much of an upgrade - though the slightly larger/uprated XR6T core size might be a go. Either way, it still isn't something straight off the shelf that you can bolt in yourself. Given the legalities here in SA for me, I'm not risking putting an FMIC on my car unless I have guarantees that it doesn't cut anything (which can result in losing my insurance coverage or breaking ADRs - resulting in a defect situation). I've witnessed firsthand how anal the vehicle inspectors can be - it's just not worth it to me.

The mechanic who changed the rack over has had the car for two days how, tried swapping every sensor, every piece of wiring he can find and even putting the original rack in and can't get it to clear. Only thing he can think of is that the error codes need to clear from the HICAS ECU and that I'm going to need to see nissan about it - this sounds like complete baloney to me. Anyone have any ideas? I'm getting very very frustrated. Jenna

N14's have an interesting design that people run into all the time - people assume that the black wire in the dash stereo wiring is a ground, when it's actually the illumination wire. They wire up the stereo ground to the illumination, and depending on loads can end up blowing the fuse... Kinda wonder if the N15 might be different or not...

Yeah - watch out for legality on these setups - I had to put the silencer back in mine after getting defected for being too loud .. silencer in with the interior turned to closed it pulled 88db, but 96db with no silencer ... I ended up spraying my silencer matte black to at least make it less obvious ... I hate the sound of the car with it in, but I'm over the cop attention it brings - especially living in SA where the police are crazy-nazi import haters..