jrm

I personally wouldn't recommend a rack case in a home environment. Their cooling is typically designed for an enclosed rack environment in a datacenter with cool air at the front, exhaust at the rear. They often used very small high-speed fans to facilitate their cooling - and these fans are usually very very loud. What exactly are you trying to achieve?

Just pulled this from the R34 service supplement for the R34 GTR, think this is what you want: It's probably a good idea to source both the workshop manual and the supplement for the GTR.

Just be aware of the legal implications (and insurance implications) of fitting a non-airbag wheel.

The sensor itself - from my experience - is actually reasonably accurate. The gauge itself is where the problem is - it really doesn't have the granularity in it's markings to be much use beyond 'low boost', 'normal boost' and 'wtf-someething-broke boost'. After fitting an R34 GTR MFD, this uses the exact same boost sensor, and you actually get much more usable (and useful) boost readings. This is a just MAP sensor after-all, so it should be reasonably accurate.

Shouldn't be hard to find one, those things are dead ugly, and people are always swapping them for the series 1 or the altia bar... Eg:

Have you tried Nissan?

You made over 306.4hp (228.48kw) on the factory turbo? At what boost? That sounds awfully high (unheard of), especially from what I've seen in the dyno thread.

$6 is pretty competitively priced...

100% agree with the above. My first CarPC experience was done exactly this - notebook with docking station along with a super-cheap chinese indash touchscreen. When the computer saw the mains loss, it was set to power-down. If you're just starting out, this could be an easy approach. It also has the benefit of having all of the parts designed for that sort of scenario, and if something goes wrong, you can pull out the notebook and it has it's own screen to fix it. Also has a lot of the fancier stuff like bluetooth, wifi, etc built-in. I had audio on mine routed to the aux-in on my headunit which then routed to the amplifiers. It all worked surprisingly well.

I've been doing the carpc thing for going on 10 years now, and I'm onto about my 3rd or 4th major re-design. I suggest for you hop over to http://mp3car.com for a whole forum dedicated to this stuff. I'd pretty much agree with everything iseekool has said other than the comments around SSD & fanless. I will admit the price of SSD is a lot cheaper than the last time I built a carpc, but it's still probably un-necessary, and probably means you're going to need a second drive for storage. You can happily use very large 2.5" laptop hard drives (I've done so for many years without issues, within 20cm of a pair of 12" subwoofers - they never skip a bit (Do make sure you get 7200rpm for performance). I personally haven't found fans a big of an issue; you definitely need to make sure the machine gets plenty of ventilation. The last thing you want is the carpc shutting itself off on a 10+ hour interstate drive because it got a bit warm when you have a lot of luggage in the boot. I use a cutdown Windows XP build (it boots quicker than 7), and centrafuse. It's using an Intel D945GCLF2 motherboard (dual core atom 330) with 2GB of RAM, and a 500GB 7200rpm 2.5" laptop drive, BU-353 GPS. Up front I'm using a xenarc touchscreen with in-built DVD drive. This item is probably my only bugbear, and probably the only component I'd change right now (move to an optically bonded sunlight readable screen). Whilst I can't do full-screen 1080p playback, the screen doesn't fit 1080p on it anyway (and you'd be hard-pressed to tell it's 1080p vs 720p on a 7" screen anyway). I'm more than happy with the 720p I get with the onboard GPU. With regards power-supply, I use an M2-ATX 160W intelligent power-supply. It has all the 12V -> ATX power options you need - auto-start-up, auto-shutdown, amplifier activation (you could use this to activate an antenna, if you used a relay, but then it would be up all the time the carpc was..), etc. I don't really bother with bluetooth, I don't talk on the phone in the car, and I never listen to the radio so I haven't bothered there either. I used to use a 3G dongle to get internet, but given how rarely I'd use it, I stopped - it was just a waste of money. I could probably easily do something with bluetooth/wireless to supply internet to the carpc from my phone, but eh - as above. It's not a feature you need/use much in my experience.

Spotted silver R35 on Grange Rd this morning around 10am .. damn do they always look sweet

I just picked up my whiteline swaybars from a local retailer cheaper than you're offering on the group buy for .. (and didn't have to worry about postage cos of that ..)

That's why you're not supposed to put HIDs in your high-beam. As far as I'm aware, it's even part of the ADRs - and you sure won't even find cars that come from the factory with HIDs with HID high-beam. You also should consider that the HIDs you've fitted in even your regular beam aren't legal or meeting ADRs. You will run into issues with the police, defect notices, etc. I suspect there are also insurance implications - especially if your non-legal headlights could be blamed for an accident. Either way, do you really want to draw more attention to a car that already has a lot of police attention?

Looking at the picture you supplied, I'd be a bit worried about what front-end damage has occurred in the past for them to have resprayed that front bumper (which looks really odd as they've done it without masking off the side/center parts and instead sprayed them white)

I was referring to pepsinators pics of cars after your comments - Scarlett naked is far more important thatn pics of cars ... Edit: okay, I'm confused - got an email saying heslo said the pics were legit ... Was responding to that ... But doesnt seem to be here ... heslo has just posted a reply to a topic that you have subscribed to titled "The Wasteland 2011 Edition". ---------------------------------------------------------------------- They are her Jenna ----------------------------------------------------------------------

Oi! Those pics aren't Scarlett .... ... Guess they wouldn't exactly be appropriate in here without some censoring tho ..

Spotted silver Cube with what looked like mis-matched LED/non-LED brake lights and an Iron Chef sticker on the back this morning around 9:40am on Hanson Rd turning into Arndale shops ..

I do believe there was a factory/dealer optioned alarm - but it does not meet Australian standards and should be replaced. Certainly most R34's do not even come with that. Your first point of call after buying a skyline should be comprehensive insurance and getting an alarm/immobilizer that fits Australian Standards as a matter of urgency.

I just got mine for around the same money locally for CarTorque here in Adelaide. I also didn't have to worry about shipping costs that the group buy would have too .. Try dropping them an email?

Ahhh there's nothing better than getting to work and finding you've received car parts from Japan ..

School holidays already?

The one that was used standard in WRX was provided by Brant, although their newer units have changed and are now essentially a South African immobilizer made by Sanji. Another retailer: http://carboncarsystems.com.au/sanji-zx40-wireless-keypad-immobiliser-p-154.html They offer three point immobilization, auto-arms itself after you shut off the car, and has a handy valet mode (disables the unit temporarily - if someone drives the car for more than 15 minutes, next time the car is turned off, it automatically re-arms and requires a pin). It typically is installed to operate completely independently of your regular alarm, giving you an extra layer of security. For the cost, it's probably not bad value in terms of the extra layer of protection.

Refer to R34 Factory Boost Gauge Fault This is a pretty standard fault. The MAP sensor which measures the boost for the factory gauges starts to intermittently fail due to a dry joint. I've had to fix my own and others - it takes care of the problem every time. The other thing that commonly goes wrong is that - and our cars are getting into 12 years old now - the factory boost line gets brittle and cracks at the bottom of the boost MAP sensor - meaning it's not receiving the boost to sense. If I were you I'd probably replace the boost line, and re-solder the MAP sensor. details are in the thread above.

Page HA-11 (about 157) of the R34 service manual talks about an 'air purifier'. http://www.thenismoshop.com/images/jdmfsm/r34skyline.pdf You could probably do an air-con diagnostic to see if it's an error or failure or something needs replacing. I was under the impression they were an option on R34's though. The page: http://www.rhdjapan.com/nissan-oem-air-purifier-and-carbon-filter-kit-ay684-anti-pollen-r34-bnr34-59002 Also has the parts, etc associated with the purifier and filter..

I'm guessing the first one is about the air purifier? Maybe the filter is blocked or needs replacing?