AWD2Go
Members-
Posts
58 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Feedback
100%
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Media Demo
Store
Everything posted by AWD2Go
-
What version of the Halwin software are you using 1.62 or 1.71? In version 1.71 I found under Otions: Auxilary Outputs: In the Auxilary or PWM outputs, there is an option to cut the A/C out above a specific TPS or RPM but haven't found a rev compensation yet.
-
Maybe I worded that poorly, A long time ago I was involved in a car that had nitrous hooked up to a DP Holley, so yes I am aware that it not just bolt on and go. Supplimental fuel systems etc. The point is was making is nitrous is relatively easy HP (gain for effort), and it is relatively easy to get good times when you have more HP. Where as trying to get a quick time out of limited power is not ever an easy task. Tidy car by the way.
-
I actually thought the non gased times were far more impressive since any fool can stick a crap load of gas in to make more power, but it takes thought and planning to run good times on a fairly limited mods. Clearly you have done that to runs 12s on a std turbo setup. I just thought that was more impressive but engineering really doesn't sell magazines glossy hype does.
-
I read the same article the other day. I kind of thought it was a sucky write up. It like this car is running this brand new thing called nitrous, like it was some big mystery. I guess since it doesn't have a pair of T88's hanging off it they had to make a big fuss about something. I think it would have been more impressive to compare the current times to stock times to see how much better it was going considering the limited mods. That would have been more impressive than the big build up about the NOS.
-
Due to a recent upgrade I have my current turbo for sale. Garrett GT2871R Compressor: 52 Trim .60 A/R Turbine: 76 Trim .64 A/R This turbo is "almost" identical to the HKS GT-RS (for reference purposes) The exhaust housing has been coated with the high performance heat coating. The turbo has only done a few thousand klms and would suit a new turbo buyer. This turbo is a great upgrade for anyone running a factory T25 or T28 turbos. It is a ball bearing construction and spools / boosts much quicker than the factor unit and has a far stronger mid range and top end. Rated at 390HP -440HP Asking $1250
-
Something you may want to think about is how is it actually limiting the rpm.... Yes some of the ECUs may have an option to hard / soft cut - fuel / spark but the million dollar question is how crudely they apply that limit. My Haltech has these features too but I am planning to rely on the 2 step functionality built into my MSD DIS4 The reason I recommended the MSD is because the MSD alternates the cylinders it drops and some cheaper rev limiters may only drop the same cylinder causing fuel build up in that cylinder. Just make sure the ECU you plan to use alternates the cylinders.
-
It's hard to go past the MSD 2 step...
-
Problem is as lift increases generally so does duration. Yes you can increase lift without increasing duration to a point but then ramp angles are effected so greatly it cause valve train issues and any self respecting cam grinder wouldn't do it (after the practical max lift has been reached). Another option is to run the longer duration cam but advance the intake and retard the exhaust, this can be used to offset a bit of the increase in overlap.
-
Mine lost massive power until I got the tune right again, and then I would say I broke even. What you need to bear in mind is that the different design is going to alter the characteristics of the engine. You will lose some bottom end torque but will pick up top end power. I found that it made the engine less peaky than the factory setup.
-
option 5 buy my very low klms GT2871R
-
http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/category12_2.htm Garrett GT3037 500hp ball bearing turbo This is the smallest of the T3 style ball bearing turbo's that Garrett do. It has a T3 base flange and normally comes with a .82 external wastegated exhaust housing. As standard has a .70 compressor cover and Garrett dual ball bearing internals. Great for 2.5 and 3 litre 6 cyl road cars. This unit can be supplied with a Nissan RB .63 Internally gated exhaust housing as a special order, providing a great bolt on upgrade... E-mail us about this. ** please allow 3-5 working days to manufacture** Garrett GT3076 500hp ball bearing turbo The GT3037/3076 is an exceptional turbo for its HP range. It features a .6 surge slotted comp cover and a complimenting turbine/comp wheel ratio, making it a great bolt on upgrade for the 2-3 litre range engine. This unit has a lot of flexibility in offered houisings. It can be supplied with a T25 .86 internal housing, a T3 .63 or .82 external gate housing and a recent edition is the option of internal gate T3 in .63 or .82 (these units are more expensive and subject to availability at the time). Usual ultra reliability and superb response from the Garrett ball bearing design. Great upgrade for RB20/25s and other 2.5-3 litre's looking for some serious power.
-
That is to help mechanics that don't a clue. The direction of flow should be obvious to most people who have a clue, but it will still show a reading which ever way it is mounted.
-
Not 100% entirely correct... If you look at the AFM housing it is not mirrored so there will be a flow difference both ways, but your definately on the right track, it is just airflow over a wire.
-
I think that picture is for illustration purposes only I would imagine any RB pipes would have the typical T3 flange. HPIAB have updated their site and I have just noticed that hey are advertising the 3037 and the 3076 as different turbo. The 3037 has a .70 comp cover and the 3076 (aka 3037) has a .60 comp cover talk about confusing. 30kw from just cams is a nice pickup BHDave.
-
May be worth considering something off the shelf these guys (6Boost) are supposed to be fairly good http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/category15_1.htm Just got an email from Morrie he said that he should have 4 x GT3076R in on Monday.
-
Mines not butchered its just a normal 4 bolt 3" outlet with a nice taper up to the flange. The inlet is central and square. http://upload.silviansw.com/CT18U.JPG (my old GT2871R on the left) http://upload.silviansw.com/CT10U.JPG http://upload.silviansw.com/CT09U.JPG 1679-6 is the part number for the housing
-
yeah Garrett list the turbo as a GT3076R but when you get it it has 3037 on the tag. I just asked Morrie for the.63 housing when I ordered. I am fairly sure that unit come minus the turbine housing anyway, so it's just a case of choosing what you want. The advert say it comes with .7 housing it actually comes with the .6 A/R comp housing.
-
Just the regular GT3076R - 700382-12 I just ordered the .63 A/R when I ordered mine. I sent Morrie an email early and he is trying to get his hands on some more GT3076R's. Housing he may even have in stock.
-
I went down to bunning and got a 12" shaft that fits into a drill (You may be able to join them???), and I bought some of those cheap grinding stone. Previously I had the std SR20 throttle body on so I had limited access. When I changed the flange I had better access and spent a couple more hours cleaning it up. I got better results in the last couple of hours then I did the previous 10-12 hrs. Check this thread for some pics of the finished product http://forum.silviansw.com/viewtopic.php?t=25248
-
Nope I have a .63 external gate, you have three external options .63, .82 and 1.06 I think. I personally dont like the 3040 it is a laggy turbo and the curve coming onto boost is not all that pretty. It has a lazzy curve.
-
No to Pauly but why couldn't you use it the 3076 is external gate T3 flange the same as the 3040.
-
Go the 3076 you wont be dissapointed and there should still be good stocks of them (I have just waited 2 months for mine to turn up) Edit: Just checked with Morrie @ HPinabox he is out of stock again. He had several but they quickly went.
-
I hate when you lose a big post. In a nutshell and in abbreviated form… I would take a whole different approach. Example from my car. PWR are in the process of making a Predator style IC for my 180sx. Originally I was going with a typical 600 x 300 x 75 / 100 FMIC. Trying to keep piping and lag down I decided I would be better off ripping out the radiator and putting the IC there. PWR advised me to go with a 57mm core. At first I thought that sounded too small until I did the math. 570mm x 426mm x 57mm = 13840740 600mm x 300mm x 75mm = 13500000 PWR explained that the 57mm core would require roughly 25kph less speed to achieve the same cooling as their 73mm core and still be big to cool 600+hp. Not only does the smaller core cool better at a lower speed it is actually has a larger volume. Now apply the same theory to your car and you may not need anywhere near what you think you require and you could do it at less than light speed.
-
300 I think is a bit too much of an ask for a GT-RS.
-
I have seen dyno results with the factory hose replaced with an aftermarket pipe and it actually made more power, apparently the ripples in the factory rubber hose can cause the air to be disturbed fairly dramatically.