AWD2Go

Forget the abrassive cleaning, by the time you fork out $500+ to clean it you may as well have bought the better manifold. I bought the knock off as well and spend about 14hrs cleaning the inside mine. You can get a better finish then the factory Greddy but the quality of the casting is no where near the same.

I was racking my brain trying to think of the name of them.... Yep Speedy Sleaves are the simple cost effective way of fixing this exact problem check it out before giving a mechanic a fortune.

Doesn't really matter if it has provision for one or not they are easily added. I have a GReddy knock off on my SR20 and I have recently welded up the spot the AAC mounts on. (I just thought it distrurbed the air flow too much) all you need to do to add one is put a barbed fitting into the manifold and you can run that whole AAC from a remote location.

There not Garrett turbo there cheap shit things give them a big miss. If your looking to go internal gate that changes everything. Have a look at the comparision chart again the 5 turbo above the -12 are all internal gate but I think you will find they are T2 housings with T3 wheels. How many bolts are in your dump pipe? the -12 has four evenly spaced bolt pattern.

pass... .82 A/R will give slower repsonse. it's internal gated. And it has a .5 Comp A/R which is biased towards top end boost. a .63 A/R 3076 would be a more pleasant setup.

BHDave What about swapping the .82 housing for a .63 housing, that would have to be a lot cheaper.

I have bought a few turbos through HPINABOX now and always great service. Sliding Performance have ok prices too but I have never bought from them.

I think the 52 trim would be nice if coupled with a smaller turbine A/R but I'm not sure that a 52 trim 3037 with a .73 turbine A/R is necessarilly going to be much different to a 56 trim 3076 with a .63 turbine A/R. Edit: Just looked at the comp maps and it say .54 A/R with the 52 trim. That would work nice on my SR not sure if it would be as good on the RBs.

The start of the boost curve will happen around 3000-3200 if he is looking for that spot were it starts to have a bit of kick / pull. You need to wait about until about 3500-3600 and it should be feeling stronger there. The GT3071R will come on boost a few hundred revs sooner but it tapers off far more rapidly once you pass about 5000 rpm. The GT3076R will definately give a more kick in the back feel when it comes on.

I was under the impression that he was looking for boost to start comming on around 3000-3200 not actually have the 300kw. It will be up towards red line before he get 300kw but boost should start to come on around 3000-3200.

On a SR the power comes on about 3500 rpm the RB25/26 should come on around the 3000-3200 your looking for. I have spoken to a few people running them and they are a very streetable turbo for the larger RB engines. Who are you planning to buy from? Morrie from HPinaBox generally has very prompt delivery and knows his stuff if you don't have someone already lined up.

If you were staying bog stock then the 3071 BHDave suggested would be slightly more responsive for 300 rwkw I would be going GT3076R - 700382-12 with the .63 AR turbine housing.

I am in the process of putting a GT3076R on my SR20, they apperently work well on RB25/26 as well. Give the 3040 a miss they are as laggy as.

Sold to Giffo very smooth transaction.

Yeah I know what you mean, unless anyone comes up with a really strong arguement, my gut feeling says I should go with Fred. Laws of average says that you have to eventually get something done right first time

I think I am a little apprehensive because so called "experts" very seldom live up to my expectations. I generally find if I want something done right I have to do it myself (custom steam pipe manifold which I am currently getting done is a prime example, it was a case of this is what I want now please weld it up). I build all my own engines because I just dont trust anyone else to do it right. Auto are a bit of a specialty item and although I have done some minor mods myself before (shift kits, basic rebuilds etc) there is a huge difference between a shift kit and a full performance rebuild. Some tricks are only learned with time. As soon as I get mobile again (hopefully in the next couple of weeks) I can start on my supercharger project and then I will have a much better idea what sort of stally I require.

So that another Fred +1, last thing I want to do is spend 5k on a conversion only to find out that someone had a shit experience or even worse found better value else where. My first impressions of Fred seem good so maybe I should trust them.

Adam from Just Engine Management ran 11.34 recently with a SOHC 1.6 AE86 street registered.

Anyone have a differing opinion?, suggestions?, comments?

Cooling-Pro Intercooler Upgrade - Skyline R32/R33 GTR Price: $499 600 x 300 x 100mm - Highly efficient tube and fin core Mine doesn't have the cooling Pro printed on it. http://upload.silviansw.com/cpgtrintercooler.jpg (thanks mods for moving the post )

I certainly wouldn't put one on without serious cleaning up first. Check here to see pics of my SR20 manifold http://forum.silviansw.com/viewtopic.php?t...hlight=manifold The before pics still had about 10 hrs worth of clean up. I modded the manifold to take a bigger throttle body, which allowed better access so I cleaned it up some more. I used a drill and a long shaft I bought at bunnings and some stones. I have had several areas on the manifold welded up, the casting is not brilliant, but for the money if your prepared to put the effort in it can save some cash.

I recently bought a GT3076R (a few weeks ago) and they have a GT3037R badge on them, so even though you order under the new system it still may be badge as per the old system.

I bought one of the better quality 100mm Skyline Upgrade intercoolers from Just Jap a few months ago, but I have gone with the mega buck PWR one instead, so I no longer have any use for this one. It's the one Just Jap was selling for $600 (I think they now ask $500 for them). It's brand new still in the box. I want $300 for mine. Edit: just realised I posted in the wrong section if a mod could move it please that would be great.

I have the same cat and no markings on mine either. That was why I was curious if the same applied and if it does how do we know which way is front?

I think I would be hard to beat off the lights Just have to see if the budget stretches that far it is nearly another grand, if it was strictly a strip car it would be easy to justify just not sure I can justify it for the street. What stall did you wind up going with? Fred spoke about doing mine with an 8 inch convertor to get the stall but keep it tight.