Astaroth

Floorball is like soccer with a stick. It's really easy to play and looks and feels like Ice Hockey, but without the ice or big hits! You will be guaranteed a top workout and within 5 minutes you can understand the basic rules - it's pretty simple. Floorball is for everyone so whatever sporting background you are from we will take you on. We're looking for people interested in playing/training once or twice a week and for some who become extra keen, there are occasional home and away games with teams from all over the country and even overseas! This sport is taking off in Australia with 300% growth rates in the past three years. Floorball is bigger than soccer in Scandinavia and some other euro countries! Some websites for info: http://www.xfloor.tv http://www.wcpirates.com.au http://www.insidefloorball.com.au http://www.innebandymagazinet.se (in Swedish) http://www.planetfloorball.com http://www.floorball.org http://www.floorball.org.au Males and females are encouraged to join and we will help you maintain a great level of fitness. We can lend you a stick and shirt to start with so all you need is flat sole shoes. Sticks are quite cheap if you're interested down the track and WC Pirates even have a range of sticks available to buy. We play at mPowerdome in Fadden - the men's team plays on Wednesday nights, and our mixed team 'Balls of Steel' plays Thursday nights. There are no club fees to participate on these nights, just the court fees (usually $5-10pp depending on numbers). Contact me by email ([email protected]) if you're interested.

Hey all, ACT Floorball's social comp starts properly this week. Wednesday night is men's and Thursday is mixed/open. Team rego is $44 and it's $44 per team per game. You only need 4 players but can have as many as you like (unlimited substitutions). Wed/Thu we play without goalies so you only need field players. Email rich-AT-mpowerdome.com.au to get involved. Elite series is also kicking off, which suits players with good ice/inline/field hockey experience. Email info-AT-actfloorball.org.au for more info on that.

Bump! Still looking for keepers... have one or two interested now but ideally we need 4-6 to make the comp work! Currently starting a 5-week 'no keepers' comp to get the field players going but we desperately need more goalies for when we start our real comp!!!

Veilside - ideally we need people who can be reliable... would be simply unable to play sundays or could you get there occasionally? Even if you could get a run here and there it would be good, or maybe if you could come to trainings so we've got an extra keeper? Bluprint - Mark... with an R31... guessing it's red............ wouldn't happen to be Rob's mate Mark would you? Anyway guys send me an email if you're interested and we'll get things lined up.. Oh and if you're curious to see floorball have a look at www.xfloor.tv

Hey guys, Looking for goalkeepers to play in the ACT Floorball Elite Series on a Sunday afternoon. You need to be reasonably fit (floorballs fairly fast) and preferably have some sort of keeping experience... Ice/Inline hockey are ideal, field hockey or soccer also good. Even euro handball.. It's a serious series so need to be able to commit to playing weekly plus training probably once a week. Games are played on Sundays between 2 and 5, training times TBA. If you're interested send me an email, [email protected]

SOOOOLD

I know it's a bit random but I'm trying to get rid of this gear. Kit contains: Swaybars front and rear w/ nolathane mounts Adjustable strut tops Kmac custom springs (v. low) KYB shocks Retails for somewhere around the $1300 mark. All parts are in top nick with about 18 months of road use. Price is $650. Bits are in ACT, ideally should picked up but could be shipped at buyer's expense. Photos of the car with the kit installed are at http://astaroth.cordiapower.com

That's gold! Little Jane was at school when she gets her first period. The teacher doesn't want to get involved so she sends her home for her mother to deal with it. Little Johnny's skipping school when he sees her walking home crying. He says 'Little Jane, why are you crying?' to which she responds, 'Because I'm bleeding little Johnny!' Little Johnny says 'Alright, give me a look.' Little Jane lifts up her skirt and shows little Johnny. Little Johnny says 'Jesus christ, no wonder your bleeding! Your c0ck's been cut off!!'

Another couple of good places: Lemongrass Thai @ woden Gaudi upstairs in woden, good coffee Zefer's at belconnen (wasn't a fan of dickson) Noodle box @ dickson

Right - so you have to close of the nipple however you're suggesting using an open hose? If you'd actually read his post like a good little boy you'd see that when he started bleeding the brakes no fluid came out, only air. By putting an open hose into a bottle with fluid and pumping you will suck old fluid back in rather than air. And making sure the hose is immersed in fluid is kinda difficult when you're on the other side of the car. A bleeder hose is maybe five bucks and makes sure the job is done properly - if you want to cut corners with your brakes then be my guest but seeing as though they're the only thing slowing the car down I think I'll do things the right way.

Start from the passenger rear as you did then go to driver rear, passenger front then driver front (basically from furthest from the master cylinder to the closest). If only air comes out while you are bleeding then just keep pumping. Contrary to the above a simple hose is no good, buy a one man bleeder hose from repco or supercheap (cost maybe 5-10 bucks). Unless skylines have a check valve built into the caliper (unlikely) you can draw air back in through the hose when you release the pedal if you don't use a bleeder hose. You need to close off the nipple before you lift the pedal, the one way valve does the same thing. Thread tape isn't a bad idea though, you shouldn't get air in through the threads but it's better to be safe than sorry I guess. Ideally when bleeding brakes you should use a different coloured fluid so you know when you've flushed them completely but if your fluid is old it will probably be darker than the new stuff so you should still be able to tell. Take the top off the reservoir, hook the hose up with the other end in a bottle and undo the bleeder nipple. Pump the brakes until the reservoir is NEARLY empty (not fully, never let it empty below the fluid pickup) then fill about 1/4 with the new fluid. Pump the brakes another few times until the reservoir is nearly empty again then fill it about 3/4. Now get another bottle and swap them over on the hose (still on the same caliper). Give the brakes a couple more pumps and check the colour of the fluid to be sure the new fluid is coming out. If it's not just keep pumping until it does. If new fluid is coming out, switch to the next caliper and top the reservoir up if needed. Hook the hose up, open the nipple, pump until new fluid comes out then close it up and repeat for the other two. Hope that helps.

Try looking for specific motorsport insurance companies, we used to have our go kart insured.. god knows who it was through but there are mobs who insure vehicles solely on the track.

Considering you're supposed to add fuel additives *before* filling the tank I tend to agree with the above.

Some good ones off the top of my head: * La Scala * Gus' cafe * The little italian place on the la scala side of mama's trattoria in garema * Babar, downstairs @ woden (great risottos and bruschetta) * APK (woden has great food but the service isn't fantastic, can't comment on the others) * Ming's chinese @ phillip (awesome honey beef) * Ethiopian restaurant @ pearce shops * Greater Indian @ curtin shops * Chalisa Indian @ tuggeranong * Chinatown @ weston That's about all I can think of at the moment.... TBH I haven't really been to a *bad* restaurant in canberra, some have been in the 'nothing special' category but I've never had a meal somewhere and thought 'well that was shit.'

DAAAMN, that looked unreal

Niiiice. I'll be in the market in the next month or two so if it's still up for grabs you may well hear from me.

ahhh I see now, that all makes sense. If the front upper arm is connected to the tower then the tower would be pretty loaded up, similar to the single arm setup on the cordia where the strut *is* the upper arm, they benefit quite a bit from strut bracing. We'll see how I go - a strut brace is only $200 in SK's group buy so I might go with it. That's not much in three odd grand

Thanks guys, comments: That's what I thought - a 'coilover' to me has always described simply a strut setup where the spring is around the shock. Maybe that comes from my old school r/c car racing days I don't really have much use for adjustability and don't really want to spend what I don't need to so I imagine I'll just go with a spring/shock combo rather than single units. Ok... there seems to be a little conflicting information here. Firstly there's talk of the rear being identical to the front but that strut braces are useful on the front but not the back. If the mechanics of the front/back are the same then loadings would be similar, albeit the rear wheels dont turn as much as the fronts and I'll probably remove hicas anyway... but if this is the case wouldn't strut braces be equally useful or pointless between the front and the back? Re: the nolathane - I'm particularly interested in nolathane steering rack bushes, I'm a big fan of tight steering (ex go-karter) and am not *quite* so concerned about control arm bushes etc as I doubt they'd serve much purpose... Might consider it though if the price difference is minimal.

Hey guys, I'm in the market for an R33 gtst and have one in particular in mind.. problem is it's had no suspension work done other than lowered springs so the first thing I would want to do to it is get riding nicely. It's worth noting I'm not interested in an adjustable setup as it's going to to be a road car with maybe some occasional track work, but nothing serious. I've seen SydneyKid's group buy thread and a couple of other threads here and there but I'm having trouble finding a comprehensive suspension guide.. I'm basically looking for an idea of everything I'd need if I were to do a complete suspension overhaul and (if possible) ball park prices. I'm basically looking for an idea of what I might spend on a suspension package I'm guessing the list would start out something like this: Swaybars Struts/spring combo or coilovers Control arm bushes Subframe bushes Steering rack bushes Strut brace(s) but being new to the world of skylines (coming from the cordia the above list covers it all ) I don't know what else is needed. Are there other bushes and bits that you'd do if completely overhauling the suspension? Ok... some questions for my info.... sorry if these are a bit n00b but they'll help me get a hang of the skyline.. 1) Is the rear suspension a strut design like the fronts or independent spring/struts like a trailing arm? I ask because I wonder whether there are strut braces available for the rear and whether they're worthwhile. 2) What's the difference between a coil/shock strut design and a 'coilover'? I've always purchased separate spring/strut combos for my cars but I keep seeing coilovers for skylines at fairly massive prices, so what's the difference? 3) Are nolathane products common and in a skyline what is the compromise between comfort and handling like? Some cars get a really sharp and ultimately uncomfortable ride with nolathane while others just seem to tighten up and still feel nice. And are nolathane bits made for most of the car? 4) Re strut braces: reading SK's Shockabsorber 101 thread I found the following information: Since the purpose of a strut brace is to try and stop the tower from moving when the strut takes (mainly) lateral force, if the double wishbone setup takes care of this is there any point to strut braces? Or is there still significant force in the direction of the strut that a brace is valuable? Mmmm that's about it for the moment, sorry for the long post!!

I'm a system analyst, work on model 204 at the moment, looking to move to contracting at child support. Do we have any printers on here? I have a pamphlet job I need done at a good price