GTR_RB26TTS

Morning all. After a Fab shop up Syd way. Well, more like Penrith but I don't mind driving to discuss or even towing the race car down and going over a few things. Things like catch can, some piping redirection and front half of exhausts Who have you guys used and would recommend? Can do most stuff myself, have essentially built the car but welding isnt really my stronger points and would rather a decent job that does fail on me down the track Thanks. Pete

Hi. I never hear back from you about size. Are you sure its 90mm? 3.5" is 88mm & Greddy list the kit a 80mm item, not 90mm Still interested. Thankyou.

I'm with 75coupe. Pictures of the ID tag to back it up claims? If you purchased it new, my question still stands. Where is the genuine housing as opposed to the butchered RB25 one?

If its only 3 weeks old, where is the original housing?

PM'd

I've had a few black cars, so not really all that keen on another. A bitch to keep clean. I really don't have a budget. Whatever it costs it whatever it costs really. I believe manual is rare? So probably command a higher price, but that's ideally what I'd be chasing. Does anyone have links to spec lists/comparison pages?

Hi all. Looking to import a JZX110 mk2 Given I'm Vic, I am thinking of goin to j-spec and getting it through them. I think Import Factory are the compliance guys I need to talk too about it? Bit unsure of the whole compliance side of it. I've always purchased locally for my imports over the years but it's looking like importing is required for this particular craving i have. Any advice or pointers would be appreciated as prices seem to vary a bit which is not making it an easy decision. Thanks Pete.

Proof or it didn't happen then. Post up the evidence or as with most internet shit talkers - it never happened Bad enough past threads have made you out to be a bit of a goose - but this takes the cake

370 from ,,63? lol

Is it running out of flow around 6500rpm and hence the nose over? Or is that being caused by something else?

Not upto spec? Factually incorrect is what the diagram is. If highlighting incorrect information is being a "smartass" then god help us all. It would appear you do still do not understand the key flaw in said diagram. Fair enough, but that does not mean that other more educated users won't come along and understand. Everyone is interested about factual & correct information. Something which I have cleared up here (even if Hypergear refuse to take down incorrect diagrams). Not useful? Highlighting factually incorrect information is very important to expand ones knowledge. Were it not done, users would have been mislead/misinformed (once again). Now the information is there, anyone that thought it was correct advice now knows that it is not, hence why I felt the need to post where I rarely would. Some less educated users would have taken the "experts" word as gospel when sadly it is far from it.

It does look like the diagram has been rehosted, albeit a new version. Still factually incorrect unfortunately. Quite amazing how that is even possible when I've already told him HOW it was wrong to begin with. Have a look at the 2nd diagram, then look at my first reply and I am quiote confident even someone with grade 5 maths can work it out. Perpendicular in the real work, parallel in the picture description. Fact remains the diagram is still wrong and blatantly sladering products. Not ALL split dumps are bad. Such a blatant and incorrect comment should never have been made.

I rarely post, however I do read a lot and have been playing with turbos for 10 years myself. The diagram I was questioing has now been removed, so sadly, you do not even know what you are commenting on. I am not for one second saying Hypergear does not know what is going on. However at times some of the information provided is just straight up incorrect & wrong. Something you would not expect from such an expert, last nights diagram was another prime example of this. If you saw what was posted last night, you would have your heads in your hands as I did last night viewing it.

Of course you not - it cannot be argued and hence you have now removed the inaccurate information that should never have been posted in the first place. The diagram you removed had zero impact on the situation, you would not have removed it if it were correct

Does not matter what it is, fact is the diagram couldn't be more wrong if you tried. What you are saying occurs, and what actually occurs are two different things unfortunately and misleading/incorrect. The wastegate flapper is not impeaded at all, that is cold hard fact. Users are being mislead by that diagram - you should delete it.

What you have posted above is totally incorrect. That product works fine, there is no exhaust restriction in the way you describe at all. Also as the wastegate gases have been split off, the WG pipe does not need to be as big as the dump pipe. As you can see from here: The Skyline turbo wastegate flapper does not open the way you have shown in your diagram at all. (R33 & R34 are identical) The flapper opes to a perpendicular end, rather than a parrallel one as your little diagram has shown... As a turbo retailer... I'm shocked.

lol... your "link" shows you... VIP AREA AU $104.85 - AU $295.85 So what if ticket master are making profit on them. It's what they do... Fact is you are getting them, as a promoter, for $125 and ripping people the difference. If you are selling for a promotor friend, then he is ripping you. This thread should be shutdown.

$165? I paid $125ea, VIP, for Melb. By the sounds of you are a promoter having a bit of a gouge

Do you even know what you are talking about? Sounds like regurgitated rubbish to me from other pages of ill informed people without a clue. The only thing that has been altered - is the colour fill for one continuous area - It takes all of 3 seconds to perform in PS. Anyone with even basic level of PS experience can spot that a mile away. If the file FORMAT was changed form say a BMP to a JPG, the indeed, there would be loss/alteration of colour. However it would be across the entire image - not one continous area. It would be uniform loss that could easily be comparable with the original image in seconds. See a recurring theme here? One. Continuous. Area. Please do not regurgitate dribble from other such inexperienced people as if you actually have any clue what is going on. I work on PS professionally as a day job, im also rather skilled @ MS Paint as no doubt a lot of my friends know. So how about you take your own advice & stop filling this thread with rubbish?

I say he should keep going! Bring out the truth, and burn the crumpets! 1. K4R-GTR has clearly been shown to be a lying tossbag. Why? -Editing photo's to try backup his own story -Lying about said encounters with people -Illegally recording converstations as some kind of... ammunition? (that made me laugh) 2. K4R-GTR was a banned user, who knows why but by the sound of it - the reason was he was acting like a tossbag. And guess what - ITS STILL HAPPENING! I don't post a lot here, basically just read and take stuff in, but this is just plain and utter defamatory crap. Matt09 - You his closet boyfriend or something? You two homo's would be good together.

But then how come the pole has suddenly made little to no effect on the first photo? Open the two up - compare side by side. Flick between them. Changes between the two pictures are not uniform at all. You have no idea what you are talking about is basically the point here. I've never heard such ridiculous dribble.

PM sent

What makes them worth $1000? Can't you buy them for $600 or so from VicRoads?

That beolab stuff looks very 'designer' Should be a great fit out regardless

Fuel pumps just pump fuel If you need more, you upgrade, if you don't need more fuel then you dont need a new pump