KerrodR33

Quick test on the old supercrap auto multimeter had them sitting at around 2.4-2.6 ohms

Tried a search but couldn't find anything. I got given these brand new 750cc Deatschwerks injectors for free off my mate who owns a 32 GTR to put on my 33 GTR however I am unsure if they will fit. Part number- 42M-01-0750-4 Tried a Google search but all it came up with is info for CA18DET information and that they are high impedance. Anyone used these on there RB26 or know if they will fit straight outta the box? Or will I have to remove the resistor box for them to work and change connection plugs etc? I'm a noob when it comes to RB26's as I've only owned one for a little over a month now so sorry if this has been covered to death, don't shoot me I couldn't find anything in search.

My Daily drivers and the GTR. Wife owns the i30 and I own the 'Rolla and the GTR. The Corolla is as slow as it looks lol

Finally able to post in here! This is my 95 GTR I bought today. So happy about it

Hey mate, sent you a text today. I'll go into the bank Saturday to sort finance out and hopefully have an answer as soon as possible. Looks good and I'm keen as

Perfect example of 'it's stock officer!'

SOLD!!!!

Doubt I'll get hits on here because the car is located in Darwin however worth a shot! EOI: 1996 Nissan Skyline R33 GTSt White 5spd Manual 19xxxxkm $10000ono Currently EOI at the moment. Might be purchasing a GTR so this might be for sale if offered the right price. I have owned the car for 4 years now and it has done nothing but put a smile on my face every time I drive it. I have modified it myself with power and response in mind. All work done to it has been carried out by me and tuned by Campbell Brothers Racing here in Darwin. List of mods: -Plazmaman FMIC kit -Deatschwerks 740cc injectors -Custom stainless 3 inch dump pipe -HKS Silent-Power 3.5inch exhaust and highflow cat -Turbosmart E-Boost boost controller -Walbro high flow fuel pump -Splitfire Coilpacks -Impul shock absorbers -Speedflow fittings to custom oil-catch can -Genuine Nismo strut brace -Adaptronic ECU with 4bar MAP sensor -Hypergear SLSS2 turbocharger (still with 8months warranty) -4inch alloy intake pipe and Pod filter -Steam Pipe high mount manifold by Hybrid Performance Racing in NZ -Turbosmart 45mm External Wastegate -Genuine Nismo lightweight wheel nuts -18x8.5inch SSR rims That is all I can think of right now. Currently tuned to 14psi but before I sell it it will have a new front facing plenum installed and tuned for more boost. Always serviced regularly and within the last 2500km I have done the following: -New spark plugs -New fuel filter -All drive belts replaced -New cam cover seals -Fresh oil and coolant Most receipts for the mods have been kept for future reference. Like all skylines it has a few bad points: -Slight dent in the bonnet -Bonnet and front bar have multiple small rock chips -Front bar has holes in it where a front lip used to be attached -Rear bar constantly gets fuel stains (white skylines haha) Let me know if you are interested on 0447 088 100 and can arrange for inspection. (I will not sell the car until the plenum is installed and tune is finished) Car will be sold with Rego and next inspection is due in February next year.

Photatoes of my junker

Hollow with steel wool poked inside lol works a treat so far

Yep that's what I have done. Have to block off the pcv on the the cam cover to do it this way though

Looks so clean! What are your rims specs if you don't mind me asking? size, width and offset. Cheers

Probably the best I have mate

My catch tank made by a user on here. Blocked pcv vent to Atmo style. Push in fittings to the cam covers with speedflow fittings

Yep lol I will mention this to the tuner and see if he can sort it outCheers Edit: Also is it bad to drive the car when it runs into these issues? Currently on my corporal course for work and can't get to the tuner for a couple of weeks

Can I please get a sticker too? Cheers

Cheers guys will have a look tomorrow and see if I can rule anything out. And Scotty is there a way to check the Injectors with out taking it back to my tuner for this drop?

Well as far as fuel and ignition goes it has brand new injectors, fuel pump and fuel filter and brand new plugs and splitfire coil packs installed about 2000km ago and new tune and all was working fine up until about 2 weeks ago. Checked for leaks and vaccuum leaks and haven't found any. It really has only started happening since I replaced the alternator and didn't have any problems at first so maybe something wrong with that? Although it's charging the battery fine and when I turn the headlights on there is no drop in voltage on a multimeter, only the noticeble changes in idle and driving behavior.

That might work however it would still run rough as shit in lower rpms as it is now wouldn't it? Edit: Just read my first post and I think I forgot too mention that while cruising or in the lower rpm range not making boost it coughs and misses as well. It runs really rough until I start bringing it onto boost and then gear changes it feels like it loses all momentum similar to applying brakes a bit. This only happens when using headlights or windows. So during the day it runs completely fine

Yea got an answer for fitment on the rears, only problem is the only width Rota offers is 9.5 or 10's so can't go staggered fitment unless I get the normal Rota Grids but then I won't have the concave look the R's offer on the front. Not planning on running any lower than it sits now

Can't seem to find +22 on their website?? Only have +38, +35 and +18

What's a good offset for Rota Grid Rs in 18x9.5 all round on a 33 gtst? Thinking +35 all round. Will only go as far as rolling my guards. Cheers

My '96 R33 gtst has recently started to run really rough when using headlights or winding the windows up or down. At idle if the headlights are turned on or the brake pedal pressed the idle starts to hunt and when taking off it coughs and splutters like it's choking. I have played with all the usual electronics and have found most cause the idle to hunt before regathering itself or if it's the headlights to constantly hunt and then intermittently run like ass. Occasionally it will stall when coming to a stop using the brakes and clutching in. While cruising at say 80km/h and I wind the windows up or down or turn the headlights on it will splutter briefly until I stop using them. I have used a multimeter to test everything and the battery is holding charge and not dropping in volts when the electronics are used so I am very confused. Also I have removed the IAC valve and cleaned it to see if that would help but that failed. It has brand new coilpacks and spark plugs gapped to .8mm and I am running an adaptronic ecu with map sensor. Any ideas?