QWK32

you can build it and hide it in my stagea

just remembering the last conversation i had with you Darrin. went something along the lines of keeping your car legal in all states so the RB30 build was off the table and it would be better to stick with a RB26. i bet you mouse is hovering over the bid button on import monster for a VH isn't it

i've seen plenty of examples and personally know of a few engines running that sort of power on stock internals and they continue to do so safely. i've been running this setup for over a year now, and 20psi for a little over 6months and the engine still has good compression and runs nice and smooth. i know where your coming from when mentioning the thicker head gasket, but i'm not too bothered about it, 20psi is still be ok on the stock one and i'm not too keen on opening the engine before i'm ready to do a forged rebuild. Dave the GT35 is a completely different power delivery, i imagine yours is a smooth increase in power, the GT35 hits hard, like doubling your power in a second lol. i get about 5-7psi from 2500-3000rpm, which i would compare to the same feeling as a stock turbo on 10psi. i get a slight increase in boost, maybe 5psi then as the revs increase until it hits hard at about 4000rpm. i have lifted my rev limit to make use of the later onset of power. it is a laggy turbo but that how i like it, not once has it annoyed me to the point where i wanted to replace it. it is a bit slow off the line but once power is on, with the auto, it will hold through the gears. it depends on what type of power curve you like Dave, the GT30 is popular, a little less laggy and will still get you too 400hp, i probably would have gotten one if the GT35 and associated parts didn't come up so cheap (i got it off a friend). hi flows are good as they retain stock turbo response and give more up top, which is good for people who dont want to sacrifice a bit of low down for more up top. i also wouldn't mind trying the .63 rear housing to see how that performs compared to the .82, but it all costs money and i cant justify shelling out $1000+ to try a different house that might not make that big of a difference anyway.

yeah i'm keeping my eyes out for a dyno day or any opportunity to get it on one to see how its going. i first tuned it to 14psi as i had a couple other things to sort out, just recently i've tuned it up to 20psi so i'm keen to see what power its making. the GT35 is rated 400-600 hp. i want to see it around 400hp to start with, then once i forge the engine, go for more. i'm using the .82 internal gate housing.

we told you in your other thread that the TPS see's 5v and you haven't taken any notice. no wonder your getting ridiculously high TPS readings. you'll be lucky if you haven't done any damage to the rest of the sensors that are designed to receive a 5v supply. FYI, anything above 2.5v on the TPS at low load i.e idle, makes the ECU think you have your foot planted so it starts dumping in shit loads of fuel, this is all in preparation for hard acceleration and wont cause an issue if you do just that. because your not accelerating its just running mega rich at idle. to give you an idea of the fuel enrichment, your basically going from a normal idle injectors pulsewidth of about 3m/s to one of about 20m/s. oh and just incase you still don't believe it

sure am. if you want to confirm this for your self just pop the bonnet, look at the blue build plate riveted to the firewall on the drivers side. along with the build date, engine type, car colour, it will also list the transmission it came with from factory. in regards to the shift kit, i paid just under $700 for a full auto service (ie checked and tightened the bands, flushed and replaced the oil etc) and the shift kit, cant remember the exact cost breakdown but from memory the shift kit was about $450-500.

i agree with V28VX37, in standard form the RE4R01B tiptronic auto's that the R34's (also the S2 Stagea's) have is rubbish. sometimes up to 2-3 second wait for the next gear to engage when in tiptronic and in auto mode it can be just as bad. gets even worse after breaking 200rwkw. i was about ready to throw mine out until i got a shift kit, made a world of difference, it shifts almost instantly now even under full load. that said though, in the end if you can afford a manual or an affordable one comes up i'd go for it. i've had my car for a few years now and enjoy driving it but there are those times when i wish it was a manual.

As everyone has already said, nistune is the way to go for S2. even if you get an emanage, and your paying someone else to install and tune, I doubt it will come in any cheaper than a nistune board installed and tuned. There isn't much in the way of fuel savings if your just putting around, but there definitely once you start getting heavier on the right foot. 400-450 is definitely achievable, I'd say more if you do a bit if hi-way driving in your week. Do a bit of research before getting an emanage blue, I had one sitting in the cupboard when I got my stagea and had intentions of installing it until a bit of research turned up a few R34 RB25 NEO owners getting there coilpacks fried because of the EMB. There was a fix to this by soldering in some diodes or resistors to the lines but I didn't want to stuff around with any of that, so i didn't go down that path.

the FPCM is behind the bit of trim to the right of the ATTESA fluid reservoir, sort of just behind the tail light on the drivers side, where the chrome child seat restraint hook thingies are. the dropping resistor is in the same place but on the passenger side. they are both on the back side of the steel skin in the cavity you should be able to see them easy enough. i've got some pics of them if you want them as well as a wiring diagram of the wire colours that i figured out.

Yeah too easy mate, the settings aren't that hard to figure out. i just find that 9 times out of 10 SAFC issues are in the setup. I know you've said you checked the wiring, but something else it could be is if you have got the SAFC Air Flow Meter In and Out around the wrong way? If that is right then as you said, you possibly have a busted unit. I don't know if it would be worth getting someone to check it out to confirm if it is dead or not.

yep, that's what i was getting at, it makes sense because of the sensors that aren't working. Nah the tps gets 5v along with a few other sensors. There are some that get a 12v positive feed though, like the CAS, MAF and O2. I dont know what you mean by signal voltage sorry, but at a guess I'd say the positive side of the CTS is handled by the inside ECU, I'm not exactly sure how the ECU handles the signal from the CTS. You could just place a ground on the TPS ground to test it but I wouldn't leave it like that, the signal ground from the ecu will be noise filtered to help with more accurate readings. It would be better to use the pin 43 feed, that is of coarse if that is the issue.

yes pin 48 feeds the TPS as well as a couple other but does not go to the CTS. there is a sensor ground (pin 43) that comes from the ecu that feeds ground to the CTS, TPS, and a couple others, is it possible you have one if not both of these not connected? my bet is on the sensor ground feed (pin 43) not being connected as you say your CTS isn't working as well as you TPS and Boost Sensor, etc.

by initial setting do you mean that you set the sensor type to Hotwire, Sensor No to 4 In and 4 Out, and Sensor Cal to 1 In and 1 Out. also the Car Select to 6 cylinder and the throttle arrow pointing up. the other thing that come to mind is the two ground wires, did you get them around the right way i.e brown wire closest the ecu and black wire further back. if you go into the etc. menu and go sensor check, does anything look out of the ordinary.

first of all, good work on the upgrade Christian the sites looking good and new little features are pretty cool, i especially like the how you can bring up the first and last post in a preview popup window without going into the topic. a couple of things i've noticed since the change over. when viewing the site on the iPhone/Mobile site everyones avatars are actually there personal picture if you know what i mean. so when viewing your posts on the iPhone your avatar is, well i'm guessing its you with your baby. and remember on the old version when there was a topic with multiple pages, there was that little box you could click on just before the page number links that would open a popup and you could type in a page number to load. thats not there anymore. not really a big issue and its no real loss, i've just gone to use a couple times tonight before realising it wasn't there. keep up the good work Christian.

send matt from nistune an email and ask about purchasing one. [email protected]

as above mate, you posted as i was replying. you don't unplug the bottom plug to set the timing. if your running the auto ecu, which isn't a problem, just make sure the bottom plug is plugged in incase the ecu is looking for that signal to help with idle time controls.

sorry i should have mentioned, the bottom one (grey one) also goes to the TPS but it is a Throttle On/Off switch and is associated with an auto. what ecu are you running do you know? and auto or a manual one? the black plug is the variable TPS signal you unplug when setting timing.

yep. that's the one. Once you unplug it, you may have to turn the idle screw to get the base idle to a decent level. I think it is 650 rpm.

actually 20 deg is the 5th mark from the left. the marks from the left are, 0 5 10 15 20 25 30. ignore any reading you get in consult at idle and go off the timing light. which throttle body and TPS are you running? are you sure your unplugging the correct TPS plug?

yeah i know, splitfires are fairly pricey, i just shelled out for a set myself chasing a missfire issue. well it is just a suggestion that the coils are faulty, if your confident you installed them correctly its the only thing that makes sense to me. if you put the original ones in, provided they are still in a running condition, with a new set of plugs and it runs fine then you've pretty much proved the new coils are faulty. get a set of NGK BCPR6ES they are about $3-$4 a plug. heat range of 6 is good for a mild modded setup.

possibly a manufacturing fault of the coils, can your send the coils back and get a replacement? are your originals any good, can you put them back in? there's nothing you can really stuff up installing coils, they just bolt and plug in. i wouldn't waste anymore sparkplugs on them.

i haven't had any issues with splitfire coilpacks and i've run them in 2 of my cars including a set in my stagea at the moment. i know of someone getting a couple of dud coilpacks in a set but they just wouldn't fire. it may help if you post up the Splitfire part number for the coils (eg. DIS-008, DIS-005), the plug part number, is your car a Series 1 or 2.

seriously though, yes it could mean you have a small vacuum leak, it could also mean your compression is slightly lower i.e worn rings. and lastly it could mean that you idle timing is retarded. to be honest i wouldn't worry about it, you'll find anything around 18-22 is considered normal. is your idle rpm stable?

yeah the Z32 ecu comments are in relation to Nistune, as there is no option to nistune a R33 ecu you can either use a Z32 ecu or a R32 ecu. the Z32 ecu is prefered as it will operate the VCT where the R32 ecu will not (an external rpm swtch is needed to activate the VCT). you need to do some minor modifications to the Z32 ecu to get it to work properly Link for Info. but if your not looking to go down the nistune route than any aftermarket R33 plugin will obviously work if you use a R33 harness.

now thats 300zx talk lucky it didn't happen on the road, could have been very messy and even dangerous. are you worried that after you fix it all up its just going to do it again at a later date?