QWK32

1) Yes, R32 GTST callipers are suited to 280mm rotors and R33 GTST are suited to a 296mm rotor. mounting bolts and brake lines are the same, just some cosmetic differences, the 32 ones have fins and 33 ones don't. 2) as above, R32 280mm, R33 296mm. 3) its up to you, stock stagea callipers are only 2 pot fronts compared to the 4 pot 32 ones, but the 32's are a smaller rotor than the stock stagea, i think S1 stagea rotors are 290mm. alot of people will argue that with new rotors and a good set of pad the stagea ones are good enough. personally i'd sell the R32 ones and track down some R32 GTR/R33 GTST ones, they are 4 pot and run the bigger rotor. just make sure you trail fit before committing to installing any of them, especially check the calliper to rim clearance as the 4 pots will stick out about 20-25mm further towards the rim disk.

hahaha niether is 250kw hey darrin i also agree with kiwi except i wouldn't bother with a S2/R34 side mount intercooler, i don't think they are as good as some people say they are. i noticed heaps of heat soak with mine after a bit of spirited driving. go for a front mount, you can get them in different sizes so you will easily find something that fits the nose of a stagea. you can also get them in turnflow style so all the pipes meet up with your stock ones. the only other thing i'd add to what has already been said is get the auto looked at, a shift kit is a must when running more than stock power.

hey chris. for that year model stagea they are all auto's, so there is only an auto version for the ecu. but one thing to keep in mind, the ECU programming/mapping is the same as a S2 R33 but with a R34/S2 style ecu plug. the pinouts aren't the same as an R34/S2 ecu and to complicate things there were 3 different ecu pinouts over the S1 stagea range. so it can be hard to sort out an aftermarket that isn't full wire in. some guys get lucky and an R34 powerfc works just by swapping a couple wires around. but i think is was Duncan who had a lot of trouble getting it to work. nistune is out of the question. something that i thought may work is to get your hands on a S2 R33 engine harness and ecu and use that instead of the stagea one. all the engine plugs should be the same (eg, cas, injectors, coils etc), ecu pinouts are available and accurate, and there are more options as far as aftermarket plug in ecu's including the popular nistuned Z32 ecu plugin. temp senders for all rb's i thought were the same but i'd retain the RB25 one for the ecu just in case as thats the important one. i'm 100% sure the reverse lights don't go into the ecu and there is no pin on the ecu to make it think its a manual. the auto inhibitor is external to the ecu and because your car started as a manual you wont have to worry about it. i wired up a S2 RB25 conversion into a VL the other week, apart from making sure all your ground, constant 12v, and ignition switched 12v feeds are hooked up. there is also a cranking signal so the ecu knows when your trying to start the engine, the fuel pump signal, a tacho signal, the temp wire for the gauge cluster. i think that was all we hooked up for it but there were others like the A/C request, power steering idle up, hicas speed sensor, engine check light and probably a couple more that would be a good idea to wire up. all of these wires can be found a plug or 2 about 300mm back from the ecu plug, it links the ecu loom to the cars loom. on the S2 R33 it was one big black/white plug, and from memory the R32 as 2, a blue plug and a white plug. don't know what the S1 stagea's is. also thinking about chris, i'd use the harmonic balancer that cam with the RB25 as its balanced with the engine. aren't flywheels balanced themselves? so it shouldn't matter putting your RB20 one on.

i just checked, it is a TFT one. i didn't read the instructions but i know it works perfectly when clamping a spark plug lead. it must be something to do with that induction loop at the back of the engine that cheap timing lights don't like. i've tested it by setting the timing the way blind_elk said, then looking at the reading using the induction loop. it was double. i haven't tested this on my RB25 but on my old RB20 which was the same, if i looped the induction loop through the clamp twice it would read correctly. weird hey

^^^ yep, sort of, except you unplug the TPS for the RB25 NEO. the engine takes about 10 seconds to settle down to its base idle then you can check the timing.

where are you hooking the timing lights induction clamp up to? the induction loop at the rear of the engine? it will be a blue or white wire. if so your timing light may be reading double. i know mine does, its just a basic cheap timing light i got from supercheap.

an AAC valve for a S2 is just shy of $600 new from nissan, and that was even with trade price, mind you they didn't have any in australia so it had to come from japan. i cant really see much change in price from that for a S1 AAC valve. is your valve stuffed? sourcing a 2nd hand unit from the wreckers will be easier and cheaper.

oil cooler and filter relocaiton kit fitted up today. hopefully keeps it a bit cooler this summer.

do you think it could be the noise of the air being sucked through the AAC valve, i can see how it could be mistaken as an air leak, especially since yours in under the intake manifold, kind of tricky to get to and tell for sure. to solder the air flow meter have a look through this tutorial -link to thread-

there is only one FPR, the other ones that look like fuel pressure regulators are actually fuel dampers. the neo has 2 of them, one on the fuel rail inlet up on the manifold and one on the return line next to the filter. i believe they are there to help smooth out fuel surging and pressure spikes which is probably an issue with the stock dual voltage fuel pump when it changes over. fuel pressure at idle with the vacuum line connected to the FPR is 2.5 kg/cm2 which about 35psi. with the vacuum line removed it is 3.0 kg/cm2 which is about 42psi.

0.45v is only a guide to what it should be, anything between 0.35-0.45 is normal. mine is 0.42v and doesn't cause an issue. i would have left it at 0.38v. i'm pretty sure once you change the tps 0% position you have to do a learn process so the ecu knows the new 0% point. a tps value to high causes high idle, too low and the tps wont register till the pedal is depress in a bit, i set mine too low once and had to press the pedal in about 20% before engine would rev. STATUS and NewKleer answered the erratic idle timing on the first page. just screw the idle screw in till the aac value starts to rise. you'll notice the timing start to settle down. also the aac value shown might not go down all the way to zero. my aac valve is fully closed and consult reports 20%. i have mine sitting at 27% and timing is stable, as is idle.

there is no way for a series 1 rb25 to detect boost pressure therefore no boost cut, the ecu only knows how much air is coming through the airflow meter, if a set amount of load is exceeded for the current rpm, the ecu cuts the engine. series 2 neo's have a map sensor that triggers at a set pressure (about 1 bar) when that is hit it is an engine cut the same as the airflow cut. it would be very risky running one of those "fuel cut defenders" as once you clamp the afm output the current injector pulsewidth will not change even if the airflow does. anyway that is definitely not the problem hugh has. hugh, how did you plumb you BOV return back in? is the return pipe aimed back at the turbo compressor? if its not it could be upsetting the afm when the auto shifts at lower rpm, you'll notice the BOV release a small amount on gear changes. could be enough to stall the air flow meter.

the fuel pressure reg is to the right bolted on the end of the rail. the other two from what i understand, are fuel dampers to help smooth out pressure surging and spikes. nissan fast also lists them as dampers. see attached,

when you say fuel cut do you mean air flow cut? it wont be air flow cut, that only happens during higher loads under boost by maxing out the ecu's load limit. the only other fuel cut i know of is when you back off the ecu cuts fuel for a couple seconds to prevent over fueling on run down. both of which you cant alter or do anything about without aftermarket tune-ability like nistune or a chipped ecu. does it boost fine and hold pressure? when it coughs and sputters is it when the auto changes gears?

expect to pay around the $800 mark. thats for a board, installed, and tuned.

just pull the coolant hoses off, bugger all coolant comes out as its one of the highest parts of the engine, just the little bit thats in the lines is lost. when you put it back on just loosen the bleed screw on the valve to bleed the air out of the system, you have the engine running to do this. the coolant lines are for the cold start valve, on the neo's it is apart of the idle control valve. the coolant is feed into the valve, as it warms up it heats up a wax pellet which expands depressing a plunger that covers the "T" shaped slit inside the valve. the air passing through that slit is what keeps your idle around 1100-1200 on cold starts. apart from that the idle control solenoid is the same as the one in the that tutorial as far as cleaning it up goes.

i can hear my GT35 spinning down for a good 20 seconds after the engine shuts off. nothing to worry about, as darrin said its normal for a ball bearing turbo. also there is a second coolant breather at the back of the inlet manifold, is apart of the IACV/AAC Valve, its may help bleed the coolant through. i havent a clue how much coolant it takes, i just keep filling till it wont take anymore.

looks like rebadged Jaycar DFA unit. check out this thread Jaycar thread link. its quite long but there should be plenty of info in there. its just a signal bender for the air flow meter, basically the same thing as an Apexi SAFC, just in a cheaper DIY kind of kit.

hahahaha show off i got my gizzmo kmon in the mail this week. i'll be hooking it up and having a play next week sometime.

it is released into the intake just before the turbo compressor inlet. it dumps the pressure from the turbo compressor outlet side.

sorry but auto's are complete p1gs to drive with an atmo or even no bov when compared to a manual. its not the high rpm changes that are the problem, its when you back off at low rpm, say under 3k, that the stall convertor lets the rpm drop back to idle speed making it easier for the engine to stall. at least with a manual you can let the revs run down slowly with the gears when you back off, or give it a quick kick in the guts to stop it stalling without the car lunging forward. i know this from personal experience of having to put up with no bov on my car for a couple of months after i did my turbo upgrade until i sorted out a replacement. only reason i was running no bov was the stock stagea bov, which in my opinion is complete rubbish for anything other than stockish sort of boost pressure, couldn't even hold 14psi. the first time it stalled on me was at a really really bad time, turning right across a busy intersection, i accelerate quickly, but not going over 3000rpm, and back off as i'm at my desired turning speed, car stalls halfway into the intersection, then the mad panic to get going again. this is how it was: car stalled --> f**k --> steering too heavy cant finish turn, f**k --> turn key to crank engine again, hang on, it wont start, f**k, panic --> oohhh, its gotta be in park or neutral to start (this is the last thing on your mind when you stuck in the middle of a busy intersection) after that i found myself sometimes riding the brake and accelerator to keep the revs up and prevent a stall. a manual would have been instinctually easier to restart after a stall, car stalled --> clutch in turn key and off we go. edit: to the OP, if your car is an auto, weather it be S1 or S2 it will have a bov, if you have a stock airbox it will muffle out the sound of the release and you will hardly hear it. but dont worry, it will be there.

too easy, thanks for your input Shan

hey shan, what are the forums policies on posting links to this kind of document? while i would tend to agree with what you said, im a little confused by the fact that you can easily download anyone of the R32,R33,R34,etc workshop manuals from a number of sites, i think i've even seen them hosted by other nissan forums. you can also buy a copy off ebay, which is clearly one of the copies floating on the net that someone has downloaded and burnt to a CD to try and make money. i guess im asking how illegal can it really be, i mean they cant just be lucky to have not been caught yet. nah, usenet is something different, i wont get into the nitty gritty of what it is because i only have a basic understanding myself. basically anything that is available on torrents you will find someone has also uploaded to usenet, but you download from servers and not other people, so you don't have to wait for people to be online and seeding to get what your after and you always max out your internet connection, i see down speeds of 2.4mb/s (which is my max downspeed). to get the files you need to have access to the usenet newsgroups, the binary section in particular. there are a few service providers out there and yes you have to pay a small fee for access, i pay $10 a month for unlimited access. you also need a newsreader capable of downloading binaries. so probaby not worth it just to get this one PDF. i might look into getting it up hosted somewhere.

I also got the full version last night. I'm at work at the moment but will seed it this avro when I get home, and all weekend I'll have the computer on to seed it.

yeah i've managed to grab about 82mb so far. i've also uploaded about 90mb. i'll continue to seed it for a while, i'll also upload it to usenet for anyone who prefers that, i know i do. cheers for the upload tom