QWK32

because even though GTR injectors are top feed, they are a different style to the neo injectors. neo injectors look the same as XR6T injectors, and i believe they are close to the VQ engine's injectors i.e 350z, M35 Stagea etc.

aren't S15 injectors the same style side feeds that the R33 use's? so they would be a direct fit upgrade for the S1 Stagea. if you have a Neo motor, so a S2 Stagea, the injectors are top feed and the S15 ones are not a direct fit. oh and stock neo injectors are 370cc. a couple of options if your not looking spending $1000+ on a set of jap brand injectors e.g Nismo. you could get your stock ones hiflowed, or you could look at getting a set of the siemens/deka injectors, they are basically a direct fit, you just need to replace the injector electrical plugs on the injector loom with ones that suit the siemens/deka injectors. when i upgraded mine i went for a set of 600cc Deatschwerks injectors, and they were a direct fit. from memory they cost between $600 and $650 to my door but the exchange rate is so good at the moment they could be even cheaper.

Yep , in the series 1's only the 260rs had hicas. On the S2's the factory manual stagea's also had it. Are you sure the movement is in the rod ends and not play on the rack gear itself? Do both wheels move at the same time or can you rattle one around without the other one moving.

i just re-ran the vin you posted through fast i got the same result as you posted above. Now here is what an autech vin looks like after entered into fast: notice it comes up with the blue autech vehicles prompt, and the "Model Series is AWC34" where normal stagea's are just WC34. also notice how the data fields actually say the engine is RB26DETT and the transmission is manual, MT. another thing that looks a little bit sus is that your cars colour is KR4 which i'm pretty sure is silver

Post up your VIN so someone can run it through fast for you, as Eugene said, it is the best way to tell for sure.

pulled off my split dump pipe and turned it into a bellmouth, i was starting to get a lot of spikes since turning up the boost. also fitted a Gizzmo MS-IBC last weekend to replace the Jaycar unit.

it doesn't. using the ebay alloy one with the BOV return where it is could cause false reading on the AFM, when the BOV released the sudden increase in airflow across the hotwire would cause the ecu to dump a load of fuel in the engine. if your using the stock rubber flex, even with the "$5 Intake Mod", you wont experience this.

The problem with using a helicoil is that even though it shares the same thread pitch, the tap for a M10x1.25 recoil is not the same as a M12x1.25 thread. The only thing they share is the pitch. The tapping hole is smaller by about 0.5mm and hense the tap also has a smaller diameter. This is so when you screw in the recoil it shrinks/compresses into the hole so it won't easily come back out. A recoil not screwed into the hole is a really loose fit onto the thread it's designed for, about 0.5mm. Its only once it is screwed into the tapped hole it becomes a good fit. You won't get this same compression of the recoil putting it in a M12x1.25 hole and therefore it will be a sloppy fit onto the M10x1.25 thread, and I'd say it won't even lock down tight enough before jumping on the thread.

Have a look in the DIY/Tutorual section, there will be something over there, something like R33 turbo into a R32 is a common tutorial. I know it's not a stagea but it's basically the same thing. Give yourself a couple of days to get it done in, just in case. Think about soaking all the turbo bolts in some WD40/Inox/CRC the day before pulling it down, and if they start binding up coming off wind them back on a bit, give them a spray and slowly work them off. Its also a good idea to change both the gaskets to the turbo while it's off. Just take it slow and steady and it should be relatively easy, start rushing the job and your bound to stuff it up.

easiest thing would be to see if you get exchange them for the right ones. if not one thing would be to just drill and tap a piece of threaded bar or even a bolt if your only after something 10mm long. it would definitely have to be done in the lathe though, with those thred sizes you only leaving yourself about 0.4mm wall thickness between the threads. i wouldn't use alloy, use mild steel or even stainless if you keen. are these the little motors that adjust the damper from in the cabin? if you want i could spin one up in the lathe tomorrow at work and see how it looks.

you probably wont need an AFM Hugh, on all other RB powered cars non-turbo and turbo use the same part, so i'd say the non turbo stagea's will be the same.

auto or manual? if its a tiptronic auto it should be a RE4R01B. its written on the build plate in the engine bay if you want to check yours.

what sort of engine ecu are you going to use adam? you might not even need it. even with nistune some tuners will just copy the normal maps to the knock maps so knock detection is pointless.

hopefully its on a weekend i have off, my november is looking a little busy. it would be good to get out on some less used roads, last time that haul up mt tamborine was a pain being stuck behind all the turtle slow traffic.

all diagrams i have say that pin 49 is the rear defogger relay signal. the two relays near the ecu, one will be the ECM/IGN relay (the one that powers the ecu, coils, maf, sensors, etc) and the other will be the fuel pump relay, from memory the brown one is the fuel pump one but i'm not 100% sure. have a look at this diagram below and see if it helps you figure it out. don't worry about the FPCM (fuel pump control module) ad dropping resistor, they are located in the rear of the car and most people wire them out anyway to help aftermarket pumps. the "ECM & IGN coil relay" at the top of the diagram is the one you need to sort out, either reconnect it or find the wires that are supposed to go to it and apply 12v to the ones that go to the coils and sensors. R34_Manual_ECU_Diagram.pdf just a few other notes on the list you posted: PIN 4 isn't a 12v feed, it is a ground supplied by the ecu to switch the ECM relay. PIN 109 and 80 are constant power PIN 24 67 and 72 are a switched 12v feed with the ignition (usually by the ECM relay), its not a constant 12v PIN 20 is your cranking signal, its not a constant PIN 43 isn't grounded by you, the ecu grounds it for you got these just off the linked diagram PIN 111 is FPCM PIN 71 is stop lamp PIN 57 is refrigerant pressure PIN 78 is auxillery fan PIN 17 Engine check light

hey mate, i've got the stock suspension from a S2 auto 4WD sitting in the garage, i don't know if its the same as a S1 though. your more than welcome to pick any bits off them you want, i was only going to throw them out anyway.

Ive got one of the return flow ones (first link). It wasn't a direct bolt on, the cooler mounting brackets they supplied werent the best, i had to customise them a bit. you'll also have to trim the reo bar. The pipe work supplied was good though.

sounds like the water could have been the problem, did it look like water was getting sucked through the air filter element, ie, was the element damp? if so your probably lucky the AFM didn't die because of it. the reading on the auto dipstick might not have been an accurate one, i know it takes me about 5 attempts to get a good level reading on them, try sliding it out at different rotations/angle to make sure it isn't rubbing up against the wall of the tube.

the drop in timing at 6000-6500rpm is only on the gear timing map for the auto. that map is not accessed during normal driving, only when the auto is shifting. the way i see it, killing the timing during a full load gear change acts like a soft cut and is a bit more friendly on the auto. i don't know what you were expecting from nistune but for a $400 ecu setup it rivals ecu's in the $1k-$2k price range, its not until you start shelling out $2k and more you start seeing dedicated boost control features in ecu's anyway.

if its a tiptronic auto its a series 2. the other main difference is the S2 has separate hi-beam lights to the main head lamps, S1's are part of the same fitting. can you post up a bit of list of mods you have if any? to me it appears your problem is related to a maxed out air flow meter or the over boost protection that the S2's have, but you usually only start seeing those problems emerging after doing a few mods.

Sorry i made a typo, i meant to say it "can" be taken from the control box on the passenger side. I havent done the job recently but do remeber what to do, it is a negative trigger off the C/B. I'll forward you a pm i did up for another user on where the points are.

central locking cant be taken off the circuit board in the control box that chef_stagea mentioned, no need to unplug it or cut any wires off it though. everything else is pritty easy to find, lock/unlock indication tap into the hazard switch, figure out your immobilisation points, etc. when i rang justcar they said that it was fine for me to do the install as long as the alarm met the australian standards. e.g 3 point immobiliser, black wiring.

3 of mine came out fairly easy with a good soak in inox, the other broke off. they are made from a hard high tensile steel that a normal HSS drill wont touch, lucky i had access to some tungsten carbide cutters.

if you have nistune you can disable the stock boost sensors limits in the tune. while others have said the stock BOV will be up to the job, in my case it started failing at 14psi, it was clear that it was the BOV opening as i could here the whoosh as it released and watched my boost drop rapidly.

S2 auto control is part of the engine ecu. it might not be that easy to fit to a S2 ecu to a RB26 e.g. injectors are different impedance, as standard the coils are different, TPS is different to suit the auto side of things, CAS is different. I'm not saying it can't be done, it just may be abit of stuffing around to get it to work, nistune would be a must.