QWK32

Sorry mate. CAS is sold.

looks like you've got it all sorted. assuming your coilpacks are in good working order i'd just throw in a new set of spark plugs before sending it to get tuned. stock exhaust manifold will be good enough for the turbo you have chosen.

Post up the part numbers hugh, there are a few of us that are handy with nissan fast. it shouldn't take too long before you get a response from someone.

when i rang up they where pretty helpful, when i first mentioned it was a stagea i don't think he knew what it was, but then i explained it was basically the same as the R34 skyline tiptronic auto, and told him the transmission number i got off the build plate (RE4R01B i think it was) he then said they were familiar with the gearbox and had done the valve body upgrade on a few of them before. i scoured the forums for ages looking for places in brisbane with experience on nissans, this was the only place that i found mentioned on SAU for QLD. the only thing was they had my car for 1.5 days, dropped it off monday morning and didn't get it back till 11am tuesday. i don't know if it was because they were busy and didn't finish it on time, or if the job just takes that long to do. it didn't bother me anyway as i had other means to get around. there isn't much in the way of details on the receipt, just says "Remove and Refit and Modify Valve Body to Heavy Duty Valve", also mentions having a 3month warranty on work done, i can pm you a scanned copy if you still want to have a look, let me know.

i also trial fitted a set to my auto stagea and found the same thing, a set of R33 GTST callipers would bolt up with the only issues being the bolt size on the calliper mount, and the brake line was a little different requiring removal of the flare fitting in the calliper or shortening the banjo bolt.

Hi Aerron, i got mine done up here in Brisbane at Western Suburbs Automatics at Rocklea, might be a bit out of the way for you though. i got the service and shift-kit done at the same time, its like having a new gearbox, nice solid shifting, definitely needed when chasing more power.

it does take a little longer to tune nistune for larger injectors and afm, but it shouldn't be any longer than any other ecu. the nistune software does have a little tool to change them over for you, and it does a really good job at getting the injection multiplier close to what you need, but you will need to check the new value with a wideband O2 sensor to make sure its right. my personally experience is that it isn't exactly spot on and will need further tweaking, e.g. my car was too lean after the injector change calculations. you also have to check/change things like injector latencies and load scales. i agree with wolverine in that its going to be harder and more time consuming, and isn't as easy as unbolt old turbo - bolt up new turbo, unless you have all the tools to do the job and can weld or know someone who can. i'm a fitter by trade so i do welding and fabrication every week, otherwise it would have taken me alot longer than 2-3 days to do the job. its all the small things you don't hear or read about that take up most of your time, e.g getting the oil and water lines customised to suit, running around picking up various bits and sizes of bolts/nuts, steel, and hose/vacuum line. i also saved abit of time by already having my injectors and afm installed and setup.

lol jo. it is your car after all i'll keep an eye out for the pic.

steven, you must be getting a highflowed OP6 (Neo Turbo) which would explain the 6 bolt rear housing, i'm pretty sure that is what hypergear does? the stock piping is an oddball size, its not 2", and its not 2.5", its a fraction under 2.5". but when getting joiners just get 2.5" ones, some t-bolt clamps you will find wont suit though. you may be able to get the stock i/c pipework to meet up if you lengthen them a little, i added about 40mm to one just to get it out of the way of the other one that i had to add about 100mm to to get it to meet up with my GT35 (very similar in size and outlets). for the intake pipe i just started with a long 90deg bend and shorted the legs as needed. then added the return nipples. i didn't get a bosch so i dont know whats a fair price, but $405 sounds abit expensive considering justjap have them for almost half that LINK if your fuel system is healthy then it will be ok to run on the stock pump for starters. i ran mine on the stock pump just for a couple months before i got around to upgrading and it was fine, supplied more than enough for 1bar on a GT35, i already had a good set of 600cc injectors though. just keep in mind though that if your fuel system is under performing, and you get it tuned to that, when you finally upgrade your setup your afr's will be richer and you'll need a retune. i'm curious as to why nistune isn't the cheapest option anymore? as a new powerfc or haltech is going to be upwards of $2000 for supply install and tune.

thats Simon-R32's drift car LINK to Build Thread. and being a track car having a bov probably isn't something he is worried about. the maf will work blow through, it just depends on how you set it up, i've just heard that the Z32 can be a bit sensitive as to where you place it. couple of things to keep in mind are, the afm housing isn't designed to take pressure, and unless you have a good oil catch can setup you maf will need constant cleaning and the oil contamination may even reduce its life. i have seen a method where the hotwire was removed from the plastic housing and mounted into a steel i/c pipe which would help with the pressure and joiners blowing off. a couple other options if you really want to keep a larger size inlet is to get a Q45 afm, they are 90mm which is just under 4". or track down a ford lightning maf which is also 90mm i believe, and is compatible with nistune. but reducing the turbo inlet down to 3" is fine and will save you alot of trouble. i have my GT35 setup like this runnning 16psi (soon to be more) and without an issue, GT35 also has a 4" inlet. personally i wouldn't worry about it, 3" pipe will be easier in the low mount position, its very tight for space down there once all the i/c piping is in.

How much boost do you run? I'd be too concerned about the joiner blowong off the back of the afm. There is no lip on the afm to help hold it on. Ive also heard that Z32 afm's can be abit funny when used in a blow through system.

I got a 4" to 3" silicone reducer and made up a S/S inlet pipe. Just welded in some nipples for the oil breather and bov return. Then used another silicine joiner to connect the steel pipe to the afm.

i think i know what your talking about. click on the options box on the top right just under the addreply and newtopic buttons and switch the display mode to standard. i've found if you access an sau page from google it tends to set the display mode to outline for some reason.

nistune and power fc are very similar, just the power fc has more resolution in the maps. nistune will do fuel & ignition, closed loop corrections, after start / cold start and acceleration enrichment, what else do you need to get a good tune to pass emissions. microtech are alright, but its not an ecu i'd be picking, especially for an emissions pass.

mine is an auto. in park and neutral its about 850-900. in drive it lowers to about 700-750.

what shade did you go on the window tint josh? darkest legal? just wondering how it looks against the stock rears shading.

I used my brothers Ford Ranger, 2.5lt turbo desiel 2x4 ute, to tow my stagea once before. It did it fairly effortlessly. The stagea just fitted on the trailer I used, the ass was hanging off the end by about 600mm. Just make sure you check the trailer your going to use will let the nose of the stagea sit over the front rail if you need it to. I had to sit mine over a little to get a good weight balance on the tow ball. There are a few people that use their stagea's to tow track cars, but they would be lighter than a stagea, as long as you used a good dual axel braked car trailer and set it up right I don't think there would be a problem using a stagea to tow. It's only going to be a shortish trip anyway isn't it

i'll head to the springwood macas meet up

the BR type has camber tops. i went for the V1's under recommendation from the seller, they said the BR's are a bit of overkill for the stagea and the V1's would be more than up for the occasional track day.

yeah thats about right, from memory mine were higher at the front, something like 390 front, 380 rear. when my rear shocks let go the car got really "wobbly", if you stick your head under the back of the car you'll be able to see if they have blown out, they will be covered in oil.

yeah i'd be walking away from that quote. look for something in the $800-$850 range, that is a more acceptable price for supply, install, and tune. i always thought auto's were done in 3rd, with the S2 you don't have to worry about kick back, just put it in tiptronic and select 3rd.

do you mean to boost up that high hugh? or is it spiking or creeping that high. i found my stock bov kept blowing open as soon as i hit about 14psi after my turbo upgrade, i don't think they are really designed to hold much more than stock pressures.

your better off knocking one out and taking it in, there are a few different styles/sizes of stud where they fit into the hub, then you know your getting the right one. i picked up a heap for my 32 from repco, only a couple dollars each. just got to make sure you get the right length, tread size & pitch, and hub fitment.

you can replace just the one stud, it will just knock out of the hub. sorry i don't know the sizes.

spotted a white S2 (i think, only saw the back) pulling up on the side road off creek rd near the BP and school just before 3pm