QWK32

nice, which coilovers did you go for? i got it done at Western Suburbs Automatics, i'd seen the name pop up a few times on SAU and when i rang the guy he knew what a stagea was and new the gearbox, so that was good enough for me lol. can't argue with the results, instant change from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd with my setup.

finally got a shift kit installed car goes 100 times better now. it was the only thing still holding me up, so now its time to crank the boost up and see how close i can get to the 300awkw mark.

Hahahaha lol. The factory alarm was only an option Josh. Mine didn't have it. But I'm sure the keyless entry was a standard feature on the S2's, that's what the white contol box on the passenger side does. First off I'd be checking the contol boxs operation by manually grounding those cables to see if all the doors lock, remeber all the doors have to be shut for it to work. Then if you still have no joy, your drivers side lock actuator might be disconnected or faulty. Wasn't your rear auto closer disconnected for some random reason. Did you figure out the blinker crazyness? I know that once the alarm has gone off, once you disarm, the blinkers will flash a number of times to let you know what zone had gone off. Could this be what your seeing, I had it all the time when I didymium install as I kept testing each bit I did.

spotted a white S2 on at the old cleveland rd & boundary rd intersection in camp hill at about 8:30 this morning.

yeah i got a key with a lock and unlock button, and a normal one. they must not have found one when yours come over. and my indicators never flashed when locking and unlocking before the alarm. those 2 wires you joined onto the circuit board, if you just tap them to ground you should be able to lock and unlock all the doors that way, just to test the module is still working fine.

i'm definitely in to darrin. it will be me + 1. just confirming the date is still the 20.06.10?

did you have a key with the lock/unlock buttons on it, if so does it still work? try and figure out if its just a problem of your wiring, or it the keyless entry control box has been damaged.

i'd agree with Pete, a bare wire or a short in a loom plug or ecu could be frying them. i'd test and inspect the wiring, or get someone to test it, before putting another one on and blowing it up too. the chances of having 3 AFM's with dry joints is pritty slim. i haven't really heard of anyone with that problem on a M34, it more of a problem on the older RB series motors.

i think you'll find anything labeled GT30 on eBay and going for $500 will either be blown up or a dodge chinese copy. if you shop around a GT30 will go for about $1500, go to somewhere like MTQ (garrett dealers), they are out acacia ridge way. it will be slightly more for an internal wastegate one if you want to go that way. coilovers, go to justjap, for just over $1000 they have a few options, i got the BC's they offer and am happy with them. otherwise you'll be up for a bit of coin goes for some new teins. also check out darrinspencer's thread he made not to long ago about hicas lock bars, the R33/R34 one he got was too short. if your ok with pillow-ball rear camber arms (they can get a little squeaky and transfer a little noise) than ebay has a few options as do a few of the other import part sellers. i was looking at a pair of whiteline KTA-128's, they are still a bush mount (nice and quite) and with whiteline you know the quality is good. but are ~$350 a pair. also another option for nistune is EFI performance at stapylton. they've been doing nistune for a while now.

i just prefer to be safe duncan, i don't want the pump dying on me while i'm out driving around. i've had a few people tell me, and i even looked into the pumps specs myself, that walbro recommends a voltage supply up around 13v, and i know that the stock FPCM steps that voltage down during some conditions. i've herd a few reports and even read of them on these forums about walbro pumps failing, and others that have run them for years without problem, the main difference between their setups seems to be the constant fuel pump feed. i guess we cant really say that if you don't give the pump a constant voltage supply it will definitely fail, your car is proof of that. its just got to be a bit better for the pump if its not seeing voltage fluctuations, which may be the cause of failure.

Yeah that may the the case with a tomei pump Scott, but the walbro pump can fail if not supplied a constant 13ish volts. It's probably the main reason for walbro pump failure.

Hey mate, I'm back in town and have reception now. Did you pic up off those points I showed you? Is it just the unlock function that won't work, or the lock as well? Only thing I can think of if you did pick up off that circuit board is, did you make sure you used a negative trigger, I think from memory my alarm had the option of both positve and negative triggers and you have to make sure you use the right one.

if you have keyless entry that unlocks all doors (which i'm sure the M35 would have) you should have a trigger point for the lock and unlock function of all doors. there is a difference between keyless and central locking, central locking is driven off the drivers side door lock mechanism with it being the master and the other the slaves. keyless is driven from a control module with all doors having the slave mechanism. on the C34 the lock signals come from two circuit board mounted relays on the keyless entry control circuit board. i can imagine the M35 would have something very similar.

what do you mean buy right hand side, is that the drivers side. if so take into account that the fuel tank is bias to the drivers side and will make it sit lower than the passenger side at the rear. i set mine up so they where the same then adjusted them once installed to get a nice even level, then did a wheel alignment.

nah there is no problem with the blow off valve it will be working fine. the problem is basically Nissan uses an Air Flow Meter to measure air intake, and atmospheric blow off valves aren't air flow meter friendly. thats what causing your stalling and you may have also noticed backfiring. are these markings on the stock coils you pulled off? it might just be a batch / production number. it wont matter which order you put them back on if thats what your thinking.

http://www.bannedontv.com/watch.php?vid=877 Try this link.

the reasoning behind grounding the old pumps negative is because there is a capacitor rigged up in the old pump setup, its there to help with power surges and general smoother running of the stock pump. because you are using the original pumps feed to switch a very low current drawing part (relay) it could be taking a while to dissipate the capacitors charge, hence the relay is staying pulled in. ground out that negative and see if that solves your problem. ps. that last diagram you posted is what you said you have done anyway

going off those pics, if you hold the relay the same way as in the pic this should work, it also doesn't look like an automotive relay, but should still do the same job, just make sure you insulate the terminals so they don't short out on anything. if you want a proper automotive relay go to supercheap, they aren't expensive to buy.

have a look on the bottom of the relay, each of the pins will have a number stamped beside it. it should be the same number on all automotive relays, so hook up the wires to the pins Duncan said and it will work. basically explained, pins 85 & 86 switch the relay which joins pin 30 to pin 87. so when the original setup tries to turn the pump on, you use the original positive feed to the pump and any ground to switch the relays coil, which connects the new 12v feed from the battery to the new fuel pump.

http://www.nistune.com/ and click on the workshops tab, scroll down till you get to the list of VIC workshops. check out Status Tuning, they are a site sponsor and give a reasonable price for install and tune. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fa...tr-t306749.html

anything else stop working when it blows, more likely to be an aftermarket accessory like cd play or gauges. i fixed up some wiring where someone installed a cd player and tapped into what they thought was a ground, turned out to be the positive line of the lighting circuit, testing the line goes back through the bulb and gives continuity to ground. had to replace most of that line as the insulation almost completely melted off. apart from chasing the wiring and checking for shorts, i think from memory the dome light is supervised by a control module just above (or below, cant remember lol) the inside fuse box. could be a fault with that, is a white box and also controls some of the door lock mechanisms.

just read on the Nistune forums that Matt from Nistune is in the process of moving so there might be a lack of response from him on enquiries. probably be better off getting a workshop to supply and install if your keen on getting it do really soon. is a trip up to melbourne with you car out of the question? there are a few good workshops there that deal with nistune. if you only have minimal mods one of the workshops down hear may be able to preload a tune onto a board for you, thats if you cant find anyone up there to do it. Nistune isn't really that hard to tune and anyone with tuning knowledge should be able to do it, just gotta find someone up there with a software license or purchase one yourself.

depends on how you tested it, the interior lights are negatively switched, so the positive feed is constant. so if you test between ground and the fuse terminal you will get a voltage reading even with the lights off. i find it strange that you are getting 16v, was that with the car running or off? should be more like ~12v with engine off and ~14v when running. and which fuse is blowing exactly, inside or outside fuse box? which row/column?

Looks promising Darrin. Did they fix up the fuel rail or just throw the stocker back on? Still going to send it down the strip this weekend?

i did some looking into this but mainly from the RB25 Neo side of things. i saved this little bit of info that i got from Nissan Fast that might be of some use to you. from that you can take that late model (S2) R33's use the same AFM as R34's. early model (S1) R33's are different and i cant comment on if the R32 RB20 is the same. also turbo and non-turbo models use the same AFM. you need to find out what model ECU you have to know which AFM to track down.