QWK32

what power level are you aiming for steven? a couple of options could be, the GT3076 seems to be a favourite among RB25 owners. not too laggy and good top end result. but will require a different dump pipe, and oil/water lines, intake pipe. if your not after big power the smaller GTRS is a good responsive turbo and i believe they come in a bolt on kit that bolts up to the stock dump pipe pattern. after you work out what power level your aiming for you can then size your injectors, if you need them. if you do 500-600cc is a good size to look at. you should go over to the forced induction section of the forum and start going through the RB25 dyno results thread and look at other peoples setups and the results they got.

i dont understand how they can have them listed all as the same thing. especially since GTR injectors are low impedance and RB25 Neo's are high impedance. heres a pic i dug up of the different shapes of RB injectors, they are nismo ones but show the shapes/types the same as the stock ones are. S2 NEO stagea's are the same as R34 NEO, purple ones down the bottom. stock S2 ones look exactly the same only blue. S1 is the same as R33. yeah apart from needing to change plugs they would be a direct fit. at the time the us dollar was crap so i could get the deatschwerks which are a direct fit no mod injector for the same as the Deka kits were going for.

Chris, as kiwi said, definitely get a new fuel pump, purely for the fact that the one you have now could be up to ~15 years old. fuel pump failure will cause lean mixtures and could potentially kill your engine. adjustable FPR's can be used to allow you to get that little bit extra out of the stock injectors. the way i see it, why waste your time stuffing around with one running higher fuel pressures in a dodge attempt to save a little extra coin, just to find out that you are going to have to upgrade the injectors at a latter date anyway. adjustable FPR's have there place with aftermarket fuel rail setups that don't accommodate one, and then just use it to set the recommended base fuel pressure. the only mods i'd add to your list would be, a decent fuel pump, and a better kind of engine management that the SAFC/SITC combo (all depending on the hiflows specs, you may get away with it). in the back of my mind would be injectors and AFM, but i'd wait to see how close to maxing them out i was first.

that makes sense, the ones I'm running are Deastchwerks injectors, even though they list them as RB25 NEO injectors they look like 350z (vq?) injectors but use a 9mm spacer to lengthen them to suit the NEO fuel rail. I was looking at the Deka ones too but I would have had to change the electrical plug on the wiring loom to use them.

No, even though they are top feeds they are a different body shape/style than the GTR ones. They look the same as ford XR6 Turbo injectors, I think some people even use XR6 ones as an upgrade. I don't know what CC they are though. Have a seach of the forum, there is a R34 Injector thread somewhere with a bit of good info in it (same engine as S2). From memory there was even a S2 injector thread started in the stagea forum a little while ago. If your looking at injectors online I'd look at R34 GTT ones as the listings will probably be more accurate by the sounds of it.

Yep, I have had my injectors out, and replaced them with a set of aftermarket top feed R34 GTT injectors. And still using the stock fuel rail. You can tell that they are top feeds without removing them, with the neo engine cover off you can easily see the first few injectors if you want to see for yourself.

S2 Neo injectors are top feed same as R34 injectors.

1 bar will be fine, stock engine will handle it. Just get some kind of ecu management and you'll be fine. I'm runnng just over a bar on mine at the moment without a problem, i also have plans to go higher Don't worry about an adjustable fpr, waste of money IMO. What turbo are you looking at getting?

count me in darrin. a mountain run on a cold winters day sounds good, last cruise in jan/feb i was suffering badly from heat soak you sure you'll be ready in 8 weeks mate

i don't agree with that. a larger rotor does not allow you to create the same braking force with less pressure. the brake calliper is going to apply the same force regardless of the rotor size it is clamping on. what does change is the distance it takes to stop. say to stop your car at "x" speed it takes 4000mm of rotor travel at a constant calliper clamp on the rotor. roughly worked out, on the stock 290mm rotor, ~910mm outer circumference, thats about 4.4 rotations of the rotor and hence your wheel. on a 324mm rotor, ~1017mm outer circumference, its about 3.9 rotations of the rotor and hence the wheel. less wheel rotations = less distance travelled when stopping. edit: sorry mate just realised you said braking effect, so yeah with less force on the larger rotor the travel would be the same as more force on the smaller rotor.

all the Z32's i've seen including mine have an orange label. green label afm's can be found on the S1 RB25's and RB20's. samkoek, unless you have an SAFC or Nistune or some other kind of aftermarket ecu control, a Z32 will be useless as the stock ecu wont run with it. stock afm should be good till about 200kw-220kw, so just keep that in mind as you might not need a Z32 AFM yet and can spend your coin on something else. also be-careful when buying Z32's on ebay, there are a lot of fake ones floating around that will not work properly. best advice for if your chasing a Z32 for future upgrades would be to either purchase it of one of the site sponsors on this forum, they often have deals going for SAU members. or see if there is a decent second hand one for sale on these forums.

nah the outside air temp one is mounted in the front bar just under the a/c thermo fan. if you have a front mount it may have been moved. the purpose of the sunload sensor (the one of the left side of the dash) is as others have said, it tell the auto a/c control that you are in the sun and the a/c will work a little harder to try and compensate for the suns heat. the sunload sensor doesn't switch the autolights.

a boost gauge needle bouncing up and down and turbo flutter on acceleration sounds just like surging to me, caused by restriction on the compressors inlet. causes of the restriction could be the stock rubber inlet pipe sucking closed if you still have it (its a common problem), or something simple like a dirty air filter. i think you'll find the is more engine load in 3rd than in 1st and 2nd, hence why you only start seeing the problem in 3rd.

hahaha it never ends hey darrin i like the idea of a forged 25, i keep tossing up between the RB30 build and a forged RB25 paths for when/if my engine starts to go. for the torque and response you cant go past the RB30 but a forged RB25 setup write would be fun too, and more than enough power for a daily driver. as you know my stagea is my daily driver and the setup i have at the moment can be a bit wild for everyday traffic, so i can only imagine what a built RB25 or RB30 would be like lol. if your keen on the RB30 i reckon just use the 25 neo head, you already have it so why not, just have the RB30 block built read to go, and bolt the head on when you want. also the nistune ecu will handle it, i've seen a few RB30 builds using nistune fine.

wouldn't it be pointless trying to compare lengths of adjustable coilovers, i mean they could be adjusted to any length on the thread. i thought the only difference between the auto and manual rears was as wolverine said, eyelet style mounting for the auto, and fork style for the manual.

i think sharperdeal is an eBay seller.

Either a split dump pipe (with the seperate wastegate pipe), or a bellmouth dump pipe is a step up from stock. The differance in performance is really noticable. It's debateable as to weather the split dump is better than the bellmouth, I don't think you'd notice the differance on a stock turbo.

2 oil and 2 water lines. oil in and out, water in and out. the oil in is on top of the turbo, oil drain (out) is on the bottom. and the water lines are on each side.

sure does, thats what myself and others are running in their S2 autos. its a daughterboard that is installed into the stock ecu that lets you tune the stock ecu's maps. so the auto controls are still there. the daughter board itself around $450 from nistune then you need to get it installed (requires circuit board soldering), and then tuned. or, you can expect to pay around $800 for workshops that deal with nistune to supply, install, and tune. have a search of the forums, there are a few good nistune threads around that will contain more info on the product and which workshops can do it.

is this what your talking about LINK.

just saw your other thread hugh, so i guess being a RWD it will be without the N in the VIN, the first one i posted was with the N in the vin. if your still interested in the vin check here it is.

i know the one you mean, and it does go to the power steering pump as you said. i'm not sure what the pump does with it though, but it wouldn't be a vent if its going back into i/c pipes. maybe some kind of vacuum/pressure assist for the pump? i'd hook it back up with the wastegate/boost controller line.

sundial mounted on the bonnet

cup holders would make for an interesting drive with a manual hey i'd go with the oil pressure one too. are you sure it will work with the stock sender? i have a gauge mounted on the dash next to the pillar, just beside that little air vent thing. i just used some good double sided tape and a gauge cup holder/stand. 2 years and its still holding on. you might be able to get it on the dash beside the pillar gauge and still look good. here's a pic of where i'm talking about , 6th and 15th posts down in this thread LINK

neither will suit. you can't put a Power FC into an auto stagea as the auto gearbox is controlled by the stock ecu. if you do your auto wont work.