QWK32

if your stagea is a 4WD, first use a tire size calculator (like this one, LINK) and check that there isn't too much of a difference in rolling diameter between the 2 sizes of tire you want to use. if there is too much a difference between the fronts and the rears it will cause issues with the 4WD control, ATTESA. if you have a 2WD it shouldn't be an issue.

you can, but you have to be willing to chop and rewire your ecu loom to a Z32 ecu plug so you can use a Z32 ecu. don't know if this would work, just an idea. but could you replace the stagea engine loom with a late model R33 engine loom? engines are the same so electrical plugs should be the same. probably have to splice in a few wires that go to other areas of the car, should be an issue though. then you could easily run a Z32 Nistune ecu without having to hackup, identify, and rewire the stagea loom.

don't pay any attention to the apexi timer reading. the stock narrowband O2 sensor can't be trusted with any value apart from ~14.7, even then i'd doubt its accuracy. if your getting a reading in the 10's on the pen timer, it could really be a value anywhere from say 10-13. what tune do you currently have on the ecu, stock maps? on the stock maps it will run rich once on boost even with the GT-RS. i suppose you could take a bit out of the high rpm, high load part of the fuel table, but without getting a wideband O2 sensor to check it you wouldn't know if you've taken too much out. do you have access to a wideband O2 sensor? also i'd be interested to see if you coming close to the limits of the stock AFM, what boost are you running? link up to the ecu with the software and open the timing map, then watch the map tracer to see how close to the right hand side of the map it goes when you rev it out under load. ideally you don't want it to hit the last row of cells. also check the fuel map, it has a smaller load scale than the timing map so you can run off the edge earlier than you will on the timing map.

i got it Hugh, hope thats not your car, non-turbo from factory. cant help you with that option either sorry

have you got a copy of the software Curt? what mods have you done to get such a low km per tank. the stock S2 map is pretty good till you put your foot down. Personally i think Nistune is the better product to have, and not because of the interface or the features its mapped, i cant comment on that as i have seen or played with the software, but because of the support base that Nistune has. Its only getting bigger and you will notice that more and more workshops are becoming familiar with Nistune. i dont think you can say the same for Bikirom. If your worried about the number of features that have been discovered, i can assure you that there are more tables, graphs and values already mapped out than you will even look at. And with the owner of Nistune owning a R34 himself, if there is something that hasn't been mapped yet i'm sure it wont be long till its found. Also something to think about, i got a Nistune board, installed by Nistune, and a single user software license for less than the price listed for just the Bikirom board on the Bikirom site.

yeah it looks like it. in the first pic you can see the field that has "4WS" in it, or 4 wheel steer (HICAS).

have a look on this web page, Rhino GTS page on the "Links/Downloads" tab click on the User Manual (PDF). second page show how to learn your remotes. i guess try that and see if it sorts it out

i remember seeing some dyno readout's done on RB's with to test the VVT switching of the stock ecu to see if any benifit could be had in altering the on/off points. they showed that nissan had it spot on as standard and there would be no gain in changing to switch point. i don't know if the VQ is the same but you'd think nissan would have it setup perfectly too. have you thought about just getting a simple rpm switch instead of the V-manage?

do you have a turbo timer? if so there will be one on that. otherwise, check a few wires at the fuse box, should be able to find one there. or even straight of the ign wire on the key barrell.

you might find that because the batteries have gone flat in you remotes that they have lost their settings. i had to change the batteries in my remotes (mongoose alarm) and had to do a "Remote Learn" to reprogram them to work.

its got quite a few options, so there is 2 screen shots to show them all.

You just drop the 6U900 off the front of the vin and thats the Japanese vin that you run through fast. here is a screen shot of you vin code search with the blue Autech window that pops up on a vin search.

here you go. i don't read japanese so can't help you with most of those options. easy to see what a couple are though.

hahaha, wink wink, nudge nudge lol nice rims but the offset is a bit average for a manual stagea. here is a little pic of mine,

in the back corner next to the brake booster you will see a couple of cables coming off some relay/control boxes (one is a brown/yellow). follow where those cables go right down into that back corner. run the line through that hole with those cables. then do as Hugh said, pull the wheel arch lining off and you should see the line you just poked through. you will also see a large grommet on the fire wall you can then get you line through into the cabin.

at a guess i'd say your O2 sensor is dead. with the car running put a multimeter on the O2 sensor signal wire and check to see if it bounces back and forward between 0-1v. if you getting a constant voltage say 0.9v, then you O2 sensor is dead and that explains the reading on your A/F gauge.

software designed for mac, no. but, you can run nistune through a Windows VM with a program like Parallels, it runs fine this way. thats how i've been running nistune at the moment, until i get an old windows laptop i have up and running.

nistune uses "us" or micro-seconds to measure injector latencies. as most injector latencies are given as milli-seconds you need to convert it. ms * 1000 = us so an injector with a 0.7 ms latency, is inputted into nistune as 700 us. an injector with a 1.3 ms latency is inputted as 1300 us.

what consult program are you using? Ecutalk is a good one, just connect up to the ecu, tick the O2 Sensor box from the available sensors/readings, and the choose display gauges. you will see an O2 sensor voltage gauge

with all the engine swapping its possible the power to the injectors hasn't been rewired. you can either check the injectors for 12v positive power at the injector plug itself or at the ecu. do you have a RB20 ecu pinout? they are easy enough to find if you don't. at the ecu check pin 109 has 12v (positive), you can also check that pins 107, 108, 116 on the ecu are grounded (negative).

hahaha exactly what i was thinking lol, i'm happy if i see 200km to half a tank. Silhouette31, firstly start with a fresh set of spark plugs. then a quick and easy one to do is clean the AFM with some contact cleaner(carb cleaner). if its still not right then probably one of the easy ones to fault find on is O2 sensor, if your handy with a multimeter just probe the signal output, or if you have a consult cable or know anyone that does just use that. look for a "lazy" cycle on the sensor, it should quickly bounce back and forwards from 0-1v. if its lagging or just stuck, it will cause incorrect fuel correction on the fuel maps making it run either lean or rich.

what was in the car before the 20 went in? stock ecu and wiring on the 20?

you can get the R33 fronts to bolt up with very little modification. its been covered a few times in this thread. but if your after a no mucking around direct bolt on for the S2 the R34GTT's are the go. DeanR33, you wont really feel too much difference in braking just putting around town doing light to moderate braking. when you will notice the difference is pulling up in a hurry, and after doing some hard braking for a little while i.e "spirited driving". the stock stagea brakes suffer from bad brake fade IMO.

if you want to find out more about what "DOSE" is just search youtube, use search terms like "fully sick dose" or "vl dose" lol also don't mistake compressor surge with dose, they are two different things.

they will fit but wont look too good. my car came over from japan with 17 x 7" rim and around a +45 offset. tire was a 225 50 R17 and i had no trouble with the tire hitting the strut so a 215 will be fine. the fronts sat in the front guard by a mile lol. the rears where better but still sat in a little. so to answer your question, yes it will fit. but if you have a choice hold off for a rim with a better offset. i'm now running a +30 offset rim and they sit in the front guards ok, rears sit perfect once lowered. car is a auto S2.