QWK32

R34 GTT uses a pull type, unsure of R34 GTR. Most R32 GTR's are the push type but as darrinspencer will confirm, the later model ones are a pull type.

Yeah as i said, not really a big problem. I was really just wondering if it was a problem at my end or not.

Hey guys. Its not really a problem, but over the last few days when i load the main/home page for SAU the first column, the "Site Navigation" and "Forum Index" column, most of the time is too wide. Its not always the same width, and looking at the page, what stands out is the "Random Gallery Image". It seems as though the images are displaying at full pixel size instead of scaling down. Is it just me or are others getting the same? My computer is a Mac, using Safari 4.0.5. I have also run this on a Windows XP VM and Internet Explorer is the same. Attached are a couple of screenshots (not from the same loaded page), my screen resolution is 1440 x 900.

strange, although it is highly possible that tomei have just used different colour cables. just match up the pin id letters and you'll be fine. if your doing the install yourself make sure you can still get you car to the tuners as you wont be able to safely start and drive your car. what you could do is wire in the Z32 plug in parallel with the stock one, that way you can drive to the tuners on the stock AFM, then all the tuner has to do is swap the AFM and tune away.

i'm not 100% on the operation of a carbon canister. but i know it has something to do with fuel vapour building up pressure in the fuel tank, and when your car is running the build up pressure goes through the canister and then released back into the inlet manifold when the engine is pulling vacuum. i guess by not having an operation carbon canister, you will get a build up of pressure in the fuel tank. again i'm not 100% on how it works, i think you'll find there are people that don't run them and don't have a problem. edit: check this webpage out for information LINK if your keen to get it replaced just remove it from the engine, its not doing anything at the moment anyway. then take it to an import wreckers and see if they have one. you should be able to get one through nissan but it will be cheaper trying the wreckers first

i have the same solenoid on my stagea, being a NEO engine too. i've followed the lines and tried to figure out what it does, and from what i can tell its the carbon canister purge control valve. i think it does the same job as the vacuum controlled purge valves on the older model skyline carbon canisters. if you follow the line you will see it goes to the carbon canister (small black cylinder nest to the airbox/pod).

you might have some success ringing a few import/compliancing yards. they may have a few sitting around that were removed during compliance.

i'm sure you find that the mounting points for the rear will not accommodate a front calliper. you will also probably run into issue's finding a suitable rotor that will fit the offset required for the calliper, and also have the deeper hub for the handbrake shoes. i would also think that by putting a set of fronts on the rear you will probably stuff up the brake bias. if your after a cheap upgrade for the rear just get a set of R32GTR or R33GTST ones, they are a lot more common that a set of R34GTT rears would be.

I reakon your on to something with the ballast idea. I haven't had any experience on HIDs before but I do a bit of work with metal halide and high pressure sodium lighting, which are along the same lines. When the ballast fails on them the globe won't ignite properly, just emit a really dull blueish kind of light.

Tomas, on my car, i dont have the factory HID's, they were removed during compliance. I have the 2 fuse's at the bottom of the box, HID RH and HID LH. but i dont have the 2 fuses mounted between the relay block on the right hand side, i just have a blank space between the relays. check the fuse holders actually have terminals in them. the one your missing, AC100V, unless you have an auxiliary 100v A/C socket in you car, it will be blank. mine is, and if you look in the fuse holder you will see that there will be a terminal missing. i'd say the two you have mounted on the right between the relay's are the same two i have at the bottom of the fuse block. they are even labeled as the same thing. i dont know why they would be in a different spot though.

Scott it does run two maps, normal and knock. but by grounding out the boost solenoid you wont eliminate the use of the knock maps. if you happy with the performance of the stock dual boost control leave it and get it tuned at that. if not, either ground out the solenoid or replace it with aftermarket boost control and then get a tune. there is no point stuffing around with two boost levels.

yeah when knock is detected it retards timing and uses richer mixtures, also lowers the rev limit (only by 200rpm lol). i have also heard it stops the high boost solenoid from switching over leaving it at 5psi. also your thinking about it all wrong tom, adding more boost/airflow isn't going to lean out a rich AFR. regardless of the boost your running, 5psi or 10psi, a stock map is going to run rich on boost. More boost = more airflow = higher load point. which means the stock maps load points are accessed further up the load axis, where they are richer. with your example of 40% 10psi and 60% 5psi, you find they are accessing load points with values very similar. Just an example: i went from the stock turbo ~11-12psi, with AFR's pulled back to about 11.5-12:1 once on boost. Fitted my GT35 running 14psi and with same map i was running before, it was too rich once on boost. the increase in airflow meant i accessed a higher load point on the map which had a richer setting.

Good explanation Paul, but to add to what you said, the NEO RB25 in the R34's and S2 Stagea's also has an additional overboost protection, "boost cut", detected by a MAP sensor that the NEO has. Usually hit around the 13-14psi mark, but I have heard of people hitting it earlier.

I'm with iamhe77, how much boost are you running? Or better, did you notice if you had a boost spike as it happened? It sounds just like the neo's boost cut, which as you said feels just like the engine completely cut for a second.

thats basically it. something else to think about, if your using too cold of a plug they will foul up quickly. the plugs have a kind of "self clean", to help with soot build up on the electrode. this process wont work as good if a plug that is too cold for your application is used. i have no idea about what is required for E85, have you looked in the FI section, i've seen a few topics come up about E85? i've only really used NGK plugs, and can help you out with their part numbers. i have a chart i use that i found on the breakdown of the part numbers you may be interested in. its a few post down in this thread LINK

I dont know the exact composition but it is some kind of material/canvas and resin mix. heat rating up in the 250-300 deg C range. Used for components in large industrial ovens. Granted they are constantly used in temps above 200c the better part of each day, which would be more extreme than an engine bay. But have found that if i'm not careful during installation it will damage easily. The most frequent failure i see is with phenolic wheels, sometimes only lasting a couple months before they fall to bits. I may be familiar with a different grade of phenolic than what your using though, i don't know. I knew you guys would have looked into it, i was just interested in your thoughts/findings, as the phenolic i'm familiar with i would not be comfortable using anywhere on my engine.

turbo is sold, still have a brand new external wastegate 0.82A/R housing for a GT35 if anyone is keen. $250 ono

are you guys worried about the phenolic material cracking or breaking under the pressure of being compressed by the plenum studs/bolt? i work on some equipment the uses phenolic material, and as hard and heat resistant as it is, i have found that after some time in use it can become quite brittle and pieces chip away or even crack through.

1: 35mm 2: 25mm 3: 10mm and the spring washer is 4mm.

i think all the insurance companies have jacked up there premiums. i also just got my renewal through justcar, up to $1150 a year from $850. i'm 26 and no listed drivers under 25, the only way i can get it back down is buy having a ridiculous excess. the missus got hers though a month ago, up to $700 from $500 for a stock 05 swift. she turned 25 a few months ago so we were expecting a cheeper premium, didn't get one out of interest, was yours much of an increase on last years premium?

Spotted a white C34, unsure of series, looked like a 260rs. Saw it side on as it buzzed past me on wynnum rd through morningside last night at about 7pm.

This thread is gold Its the one topic that everyone has an opinion on and will get fired up over. Although I've never driven a M35 I'd have to agree with what pixel8r said, it's a newer car, better tech, has more factory features, etc. ps steve: manual S2 C34 are 4WD, I don't think you can get a RWD manual. But I also think you can't group the C34 and M35 together and compare them, they are essentially 2 different cars, probably the only things they have in common are the name, Stagea, and the maker, Nissan. It's not like comparing the R series Skyline model where each is a clear succession of the last model. M35 and C34 don't share the same engine, same kind of body styling, etc So I don't see how they can clearly be compared to each other. They only things that can be said are: - C34 is an excellent base for heavy modification and has the "jap" sport wagon look - M35 is good for basic bolt on modifications, but shines more as a luxury wagon that has "European" styling.

i think, but you'd have to check, you cant do it because of the auto controls in the ecu. i know the Manual R33 owners can do it with a Z32 or a R32 ecu. if it is possible it might be with the use of an auto Z32 ecu to control the stagea auto, can't say for sure though. email nistune and ask the question, Matt will know if it can be done or not. basically. but after wiring it up you need to make some alterations within nistune to get it to run. very similar to the way injectors are resized to work. with the Z32 it just gives you more resolution. a Z32 will allow you to run a larger turbo and boost (more airflow), where as the stock AFM will max out.

yes nistune can remove speed cut, well you actually set the cut limit to some ridiculous number effectively eliminating it, from memory the highest value is just above 500kph. Rev limit can also be adjusted, as well as the timing and fuel maps, of which there are basically two of each, one for normal conditions and the other is for when knock is detected. if you have an auto the timing used during a gear change can also be adjusted, handy to get a nice smooth change. some of the more nitty-gritty tuning sections include, after start enrichment, pre-accelleration enrichment, dwell time and duty (for the coilpacks), idle speed, etc. most of which don't really need any adjustment. couple other things you can see with the Neo stagea's are: the Boost Solenoids duty cycle, there is some head room to lift it up but not much, probably wont add too much more boost, but i have heard of people toying with using this output to control water/meth injection or even just a water sprayer system onto the intercooler. and there is also a large section of controls for the VVT. i cant see any reason why nistune couldn't handle E85. doesn't E85 just need larger injectors to get enough of the fuel in. i'm running 600cc injectors on nistune with out a problem, its a simple rescale and check fuel mixtures, fine tune as needed. i'm also running a Z32 AFM on nistune. with a FMIC, 11psi on the boost controller, full 3" exhaust system and a decent intake setup. just pulling the fuel mixtures back to a good AFR in nistune i had my stagea performing a lot better, the gain was really noticeable after a little tune.

Have you run your vin through fast before, and checked the options? I know a LSD rear end was an option for the S2 auto's, perhaps this also meant the stronger tail & drive shafts were used to go with it. You may have the LSD option.