QWK32

i have the same setup, i've had those little surrounds in the unit pull out with the plug before, there aren't really secured too well. i reackon you should be able to use it without the surround though, as long as you can find a plug that fits the pins. i doubt you'd be able to find the exact style of plug it uses, might be able to find something very similar, maybe try jaycar or similar? without going out and looking at mine, how many pins is the boost sensor one? i've got some spare defi wiring looms, i think they are the gauge ones though.

PFC = Apexi Power FC

check how hot the wideband cabling is getting. i had an issue once with my techedge unit giving lean values, turned out the wiring was suffering from heat soak. but this was only happening after about 10-15min of driving once everything had warmed up.

that is the CAT Temp Sensor Warning Light. that light comes on when the CAT gets too hot. stick your head under the car, passenger side, and you should be able to see a sensor screwed into the side of the cat. a couple reasons you getting that light could be, your cat has collapsed and isn't flowing that well, therefore getting hot. or, your sensor has been removed, which i have seen done a bit when installing aftermarket cats that don't come with a bung for the sensor, as far as i know it isn't a problem to do this, as the sensor only lights up that warning light. if your sure your cat is ok, or the sensor just isn't there, you can always just remove the bulb from that warning light on the back of the cluster so you don't have it lit up. you could search the forums for Cat Temp Sensor and you might be able to find out some more info.

Aaron, i think you'll find that when Mike is referring to a "Blue Plate", it is the same thing your talking about, a mod plate. most people will call them blue plates because they are just that, a blue coloured modification approved plate. it looks like you've got everything sorted, only thing i can think of is maybe look into CTP insurance. i don't know if its all done at the transport department or if you have to get CTP first, then register the car.

yeah i understand the readings that will be shown under hard acceleration and during idle. but we sometimes get readings of 16 LPH just putting around at 60kph, other times it says 7 or 8 LPH Sorry, don't get me wrong, i wasn't bad mouthing your software or your displays. For me, having a real time fuel consumption display is kind of pointless. Sure it will show you get better fuel economy at 130kph than at 100kph at Tom said, but thats not really going to help you being stuck in 100kph speed limits. I'm more interested in how many km's i get from a tank, for majority highway driving i'd expect more that just city driving. but again, thats just my opinion. Do your displays/software have a feature where it will show that for this 65L of fuel just used, i drove 450 km which averages ~14 LPH?

Curt, you have an auto don't you? the auto's have the 6 wire TPS, manual's use 3 wire's only (they may still have 6 wire's but just not using all of them). so the diagram you have might be a manual diagram, it wont show the other 3 TPS wires. attached is a ecu diagram for an auto, the red arrow is point to the variable ~0-5v TPS output, and the blue arrow is pointing to a throttle on/off and WOT switch for the auto. now from memory, there are the two TPS plugs mounted in front of the inlet plenum. there is a black plug with red and black wires, this one is the variable 0-5v TPS. there is also a grey plug with some green and yellow wires, this one is the other on/off/WOT switch for the auto. i think i got that right. one way to check would be, if you have a consult interface, set it up. don't start the ignition just turn it to "ON". bring up the display gauges mainly the TPS % or Volts one. then go and unplug one of the plugs. if the TPS input stops working than that plug is the variable 0-5v TPS. otherwise just test with a multimeter which plug has the 0-5v output to id which is which.

by the sounds of it your mate is on the right track, something has gone wrong with the mechanical side of things, not the electrical. with the lock being hard to push it could be a linkage arm fallen off or jammed up. take the door card off and have a look. does it look like someone has had a go at breaking into you car? maybe with one of those thin bits of steel that you can use to slide down between the window and the door, could have dislodged something with on of those?

if you get in the car, shut all the doors, and lock the drivers door by flicking the manual lock by hand, does it work properly? ie, all doors lock and stay locked?

i wouldn't worry about the numbers on the front of the compressor cover, i think they are a random usage. Here is a thread i started ages ago Link, on the 2 different R33 turbo's i came across.

on an auto its about 120 on the dial. car/engine seems to want to sit about there comfortably and it give the best hi-way economy. also i found that when resizing injectors with nistune a value of 380cc-385cc worked best with the equation (which happens to be the value nistune lists as the stock injector cc). anyway, i wouldn't really take any notice of those electronic displayed fuel consumption figures, the misses swift has a fuel economy display and it gives off some ridiculous readings sometimes, only really useful when a constant acceleration and cruising speed is used.

as long as they are legal rims with legal tires it wont be a problem in changing them. best to let the insurance company know about it though, if your ever in an accident and they dont know about the new different sized wheels, they will argue that they could have been the reason for the accident and refuse to cover you. the worst that will happen by telling them is, they may not cover the entire value of the rims if they are damaged or stolen.

correction, 36mm. i checked lol. on the topic of wastegate sizing, even porting it out to 38-40mm, surely this wouldn't cause an issue with top or low down boost control? aren't most external gates that are recommended around that size anyway? i can however understand the theory behind going too big on the port size of the wastegate, in either blowing open early or "bouncing" when first opening.

just curious trent as to which tables you are talking about? is it one that can been seen from in nistune or a background ecu table that can't be seen? i honestly didn't notice any difference in AFR's once disconnecting mine.

GT35's are 32mm

still have the cam gear, $130 posted.

CAS still available guys, also have the mounting bracket for it if its needed.

pm sent

a while ago i thought i'd give those little clip things a go, to install a SAFC on my old 32. driving up the motorway one day and the unit just died, hence my car died. not fun at 100kph. it was that little clip splicer thing that wasn't giving a good connection, and yes i did use the correct sized one for the cable i was splicing. i wouldn't recommend them to anyone. what i like to do is cut the wire. strip the ends. slide a piece of heatshrink down the wire. solder it back up. slide the heatshrink over the join and shrink it down. you cant go wrong if you solder a wire properly.

its just for an overboost protection that the stock ecu has. if the little plastic nipple has broken off the bottom of it don't worry, just block off the vacuum line going to it, and leave the sensor plugged in. if you unplug it and remove the sensor it will throw a DTC and the engine check light will come on.

370cc

Thats terrible Scott, and 17.1g to fix Glad your ok though mate, where was the accident? That black S2 does look pretty clean, straight into another stagea good stuff lol

If your keen to get that error code checked out, you could either try the bridging the pins method aka "Paperclip Method". or just ask your mechanic if they have a diagnostic scanner, and can check the error codes for you. It doesn't have to be a nissan scanner or with consult setup. My brothers workshop uses one called a Carman, it has a bunch of different plugs so it can link with almost every make/model, it works on my stagea.

its not really the upper and lower peak voltages that are important, its the crossover through the range of 0.4-0.6v (roughly) that is. with mine it would cycle, but lag in either the upper or lower peak voltages for too long, sometimes quite a few seconds before bouncing back.

Tom is pretty much right on this one guys. On the S2 the O2 sensor can throw the engine check light up for a couple of seconds, then it goes away. It happened to me, I found it was mainly after you have been driving the car for a little while, i first saw it on a highway road-trip. Once i got to where i was going i checked the error codes and it had "O2 Sensor Malfunction". I threw an oscilloscope on the sensor and found that while the O2 sensor would cycle, it was very "lazy". Even though the sensor was starting to fail, i didn't have an issue with idle or an overly excessive fuel usage. I changed it for another genuine nissan one that set me back about $170, i didn't feel like stuffing around rewiring a NTK or Bosch one. I didn't get any noticeable increase in fuel economy afterwards, but it was probably only a matter of time before the thing shit itself all together. Ben, as for the turbo timer, maybe look for a Pivot website, they may have user manuals available to download.