QWK32

Nissan Fast shows the same part number across the R34 range. turbo, non-turbo, 2.5L, 2.0L. all use the same damper.

FAST shows the first part of the P/N, 47850 as "Anti-skid Control Module". but i dont see the last bit, AA080??, on the list.

i'll be happy with $300, plus courier costs. if you have no luck down there and get desperate PM me. Know any good couriers that will deliver without having an account with them?

that would work, the rotor offset is the same i believe, don't the S1 guys use trimmed down R33 rotors as replacements anyway? trial it and then you'd know for sure if fitment will be an issue.

Hi Andrew, I have one in good condition. Removed it because I upgraded. But I'm in QLD, so I'd have to post/courier it. I'm sure some of the SA guys will chime in soon if anyone has one, or even if there are any good wreckers down there. Also don't refine your search to just S2 stagea's, R34 GTT turbos are the same.

R33's come with 16's standard so you know the diameter will be ok. To quickly check the offset/disc clearance just make sure you have atleast 20-25mm of extra space between the rim and the stock 2pot caliper, the 4pots stick out around that much further than the 2pots.

Hugh, just a couple of thoughts. what is the TPS voltage with the throttle closed? And at fully open? When you apply the throttle is it a linear increase in voltage from the TPS? you can check this with a multimeter or through a consult interface. Also check the throttle open/close switch. It is the second plug off the TPS. It's either voltage on or off, depending on if the accellerator is pressed or not. This is the one I'd say is more lickly to give you idle problems, i think the ecu uses it to know when to use minimum theoretical injector pulsewidths, which roughly means at idle atleast X amount of fuel must be used. If this switch isn't switching to let the ecu know when no throttle is being used, it will assume you are using the accellerator, therfore ignoring the minimum limits and use the AFM load, which will be very low at 600rpm, to govern the fuel used. This will also explain why giving it a boot helps get it going. You can also check ths with a multimeter or sone consult interfaces will show it.

Nah, shouldn't do. I'm not running a bov at the moment and have the return pipe blocked, i have no issues with idle.

thats on the S1 and older RB25's, the RB25 NEO's have a different setup that uses one valve, but it has two parts to it.

Yes there are two parts two it, there is the solenoid section which is the idle control, and there is the bit with the coolant lines running to it, thats the cold start valve. Removal: 1st: Remove the larger 30mm pipe that feeds air to the valve from the solid pipe on the coilpack cover. you may need to remove the carbon canister purge solenoid (little blue solenoid just to the left of the "Boost Sensor" 2nd: You need to remove the 3 coolant lines from the AAC, a very small bit of coolant will come out but thats it, no need to block them off. 3rd: Unplug the solenoid valve, light grey plug just above the coilpack cover. 3rd: Undo the 4 M6 bolts (10mm Spanner) that hold the valve to the plenum. Now be careful. If you are you might get away with out damaging the gasket, which means you can re-use it. Now you will have the valve off. You'll be able to see the two parts to the valve, the solenoid side, which is the main idle control and the bit that really needs cleaning up. and the side that has the coolant lines fed to it, you will see a slitted brass sleeve with spring up the guts off it, this is the cold start side of the valve, once the engine is at temp that slit will be blocked off. You will also see the base idle screw, just make sure its cleaned up too. To clean, unbolt the solenoid from the assembly, its 2 philips head bolts. when you take the solenoid off be sure not to loose the small spring that sits inside. you should also be able to remove the little plunger part of the valve to clean it up properly. all you can really do with the cold start bit is just make sure the slit isn't gunked up. once you done cleaning put it all back together. if you accidentally damaged the gasket use a small amount off gasket sealant to help seal it back up, if you use too much sealant it will ooze into the inside of the valve when you do it up, and you don't really want that excess floating around in there. EDIT: one thing i forgot to mention was, once you've got it all back together. start the engine, then you need to bleed the air out of the coolant lines you removed, this is done by loosening the bolt just near the 3 coolant lines, it usually has a sticker next to it saying something like "Never Open When Hot". i just take the bolt out and run the engine until a steady flow of coolant comes out the hole, then screw it back in and tighten. i hope thats enough to give you a good idea of the valve, anymore questions just ask.

IACV = Idle Air Control Valve AAC = Auxiliary/Accessory Control Valve same thing if you ask me just slightly different acronyms. the same valve that keeps the idle smooth and constant also compensates for auxiliary load causing rpm drop e.g Alternator, A/C. So both of those would be a correct description. On older model nissan i've seen they have 2 valves to control idle, the main idle control, IACV/AAC, and the cold start valve. On the NEO both of these are contained in the one housing, but operate separate from each other, one is electronic and one is coolant operated. if the cold start valve has shit itself on a NEO you will get a really high idle 1500-2000rpm, this has happened to me.

Close, its actually a little plunger that is sealed shut by a spring. a solenoid pulls the plunger back to allow air to pass though to maintain idle. i know the older style separate cold start valves were the same as you describe, i dont think the NEO ones are as they are a long barrel shape. I have been running my car with the cold start valve bypassed for a little while now and don't have a problem with starting and running. Hugh, thats some really bad luck your having with your car. Do you have access to a Consult setup/software? I know your on the other side of town but if you want i have a cable and software, we could check out what a few of the sensors are doing if you'd like?

here are a couple of diagrams for the TPS's, there are little images of the plugs to tell you where the pins are. just to double check you can easily put a multimeter on the wires and test for the +ve and GND. RB25 NEO 1: TPS +ve from ecu 2: TPS Signal to ecu 3: TPS GND from ecu the other one you can see from pins 25/32 is just signal shielding RB25 from R33 1: TPS +ve from ecu 2: TPS Signal to ecu 3: TPS GND from ecu again the other looped bit you can see is shielding.

pics?? edit: sorry mate. pics didn't load for me first time. does it have any markings or a plate on it?

Darrin, about the AAC-V. You may already know, but the NEO AAC-V is also the cold start valve, thats what the coolant lines are that run into it. so when you swap to the R33 AAC-V you may also need to get you hands on a R33 cold start valve, they are separate on the older RB25's. At the moment the cold start part of my valve has shit itself and i've had to block it off. so far i have no issue with idle, even when cold, but its not winter. If you still have your old one and want to get rid of it let me know.

i'm running the same turbo. i've got my AFM (Z32) mounted at the end of a 90deg elbow and it runs fine.

what you have to look at is, do you need to run MAP. there are people making good power on AFM setups with either a Z32 or Q45 AFM. do you really need to go and get a aftermarket setup like the Link/ViPec just to run MAP, or will a chipped ecu with an upgraded MAF be good enough for the power output your chasing.

i cant see how chipping the ecu will let you run a MAP sensor. with a chipped ecu you can easily swap to a different AFM like Z32 or Q45 buy altering the VQ tables. A MAP sensor setup is a completely different style of metering the air, the output needs to be handled differently. An SAFC will be of no help to you either as when you set it up you tell it if you are running a Hotwire (AFM) or Pressure (MAP) sensor, i think its also Flap and Karman?? but you can only choose one of them.

nah mate you wont have an issue, the ecu will still run richer than it needs. just be careful running higher boost on the stock turbo, many people have had them let go at pressures around 13-14psi. you will get a good result from 10-11psi no need to run any higher. if you want to read up on anymore info or on what people run you should just search the forum. its up in the top row of links. you'll find that questions like this have been answered many times before. also you should checkout the Stagea section of these forums. Link to Stagea Section there's plenty of Stagea specific info over there

if you engine is a NEO RB25 then use the R34 Nistune board. If its not a NEO then its the same engine as the R33 RB25, even though the non-neo stagea uses the R34 ecu plug type, its still the same insides as a R33 ecu.

looks like an Apexi Twin Chamber BOV, or atleast a cheap knock off. try searching "apexi twin chamber bov", should be able to find some instructions.

running the factory airbox is going to make the job a little harder. on mine i just used a 3" 90deg stainless elbow, welded on a nipple for the BOV and oil breather return lines, then had to track down some flex pipe to join the BOV and breather to them, so pretty easy. edit: i'm using a POD filter setup.

nope, i also have 3 wires. stagea's use a pink label AFM which has 3 wires, with either one of those part numbers i listed before.

just a quick note in regards to the boost issue. if your keen to start replacing the vacuum lines for new ones, keep in mind that there are a couple of little brass restrictors in some of the lines. i don't know how crucial it is if they are in there or not, but if you feel/squeeze the line when you pull them off you'll be able to find them.

yes, if the boost sensor is connected you will hit a cut at about 14psi. one thing, i have a RB25 NEO in my Stagea. on the Stagea the standard wastegate is 5psi, with a stock boost solenoid bleeding off to 7psi once you hit about 3500rpm (i cant remember the exact point). I think the R34 is the same, someone will correct me if i'm wrong though lol. Have you used some kind of boost control to get 8psi?