QWK32

Neo AFM part number will either be 22680-31U00 or 22680-31U05. i'm sure all Neo's weather being turbo or N/A will use the same AFM, i have checked this in FAST before. You should check what Trent said, the stock Boost Sensor. It will detect an overboost and cut the engine they way you describe, or if it isn't hooked up will through an error code on the ecu. i haven't tried it but this error code may cause the ecu to run in a safe mode and cutting the engine before you load it up too much. and having done a conversion, it could be something that was overlooked?

You DIDNT just say that....

the factory thermo fan isn't really an issue, it does come close at the bottom but you should clear. the thing that really gets in the way is the stock auto cooler which you don't have to worry about judging by that picture though (it is hard to tell), but i'd say that pipework wont match up. the S2's stock pipework comes through right beside each other, it might not be an issue for you but you may have to open up the holes bigger to get them to align up. your link doesn't work for me, what are the specs on the cooler? i'm using a 600 x 240 return flow. if i mount it any higher id have to chop out the top part of the rear as well, at the moment i have only trimmed the bottom section. and mounted any lower and the return pipe will hang out the bottom of my front bar.

these things happen, O2 sensors are easily damage during removal if not careful, all that constant heating up and cooling down makes them a real bitch to crack loose. i don't know where it is on the M35 but i've seen its quite cramped in there, they probably just had the wrong angle with a spanner and were rushing a little and damaged it. the dodge part is that they tried to tape it up, did they mention it too you at all and offer to replace it? if not, thats just bad business.

i run the part numbers through Nissan Fast.

the 23710 04U02 is from a 12/90 to 08/91, R32 2WD RB20DET Manual. the 23710 13UDO doesn't exist, do you mean 23710 13U00? if so its from a 01/96 to 06/96, R33 RB25DET Manual.

thanks for mentioning that Dave, you just reminded me of the Feedback/DTC section in the Nistune software where you can turn on/off certain ecu inputs, i just had a look in the software and found a flag for "Boost Pressure Sensor". This might be what you tuner is talking about, i will test it out this weekend. If it does disable the sensor its another easy option for people running Nistune.

Hi Jason, i'm assuming by saying a 2000 model your interested in the older shape C34 Stagea's? You might want to have a read through this thread Link to Stagea Buyers Guide, it has a fair bit of info on what to look for and what to expect when in the market for a C34 Stagea. But just incase you meant the newer shape M35 Stagea, have a look through this thread, Link to M35 Info Thread. There should be quite a few options you could go for as far as tuning goes, all depending on what level of modifying you want to go to, auto/manual, C34 or M35 etc. id say there would be places in japan that could remap/chip the ecu for you, replace the whole ecu or even just a piggy back setup. With the Scanguage 2, as far as i can tell it only supports OBD II??? The C34 Stagea uses the older OBD I, but the newer M35's i believe use the newer OBD II.

hey darrin, i've got my old stock suspension sitting in the garage, one of the rear shocks is completely shagged so if a stock top is any use to you, you can have it.

i'm using a 16mm spacer, but thats on a NEO RB25. i don't know for sure, but there shouldn't be too much difference between the two manifolds?

I find it strange that you were hitting it with a low amount of boost, i was running 11psi through my stock turbo, sensor connected, for a while without the boost cut issue. Only once i upgraded the turbo and boosted it up it started cutting out around 14psi, and from what i've seen, most people (R34's included) are hitting it the cut at around that same pressure. maybe your sensor is slightly off calibration? oh well, doesn't matter, just leave it disconnected and you wont have to worry about it cheers mate, it kind of is for people chasing more power, its just one more limiting factory control to get around. but i also think its a good idea from nissan, who don't really intend for there cars to be modified. just say there is a problem with the wastegate flap not opening, with the boost limit control, the engine would cut hopefully before any serious damage is done, without it you'd probably hit 20psi and say fair well to the stock turbo. the stock maps are quite rich under high load, from my experience with a stock turbo setup, you will still get roughly the same AFR at 10psi as you do at 14psi on them. but thats not what i am trying to overcome by bypassing the boost sensor, the boost limit can't be managed with a good tune, it needs to be disconnected/bypassed. easy if your going to a full aftermarket ecu, but if your say, running an auto and need to retain the standard ecu for its auto controls, a chipped stock ecu or a piggy back setup are the only options, which does leave the factory controls/limits in place.

Tom you should write a book, "101 ways to modify you car with a bucket"

I thought i'd post up this little "how to" on bypassing the stock S2 boost limiter. There will be a few out there that will probably never need to worry about this, but for those of us chasing more power by installing aftermarket turbo's and winding up the boost, it will come in handy to know this little ~10min job. Of coarse this only applies to people running the stock ecu's that are either chipped e.g. Nistune, or running a piggy back setup e.g. SAFC or Emanage (although i do believe the EMU can "clamp" the sensors output to also get around this). Now before anyone goes rattling on about there being no such this as a boost cut, and that its R&R, the RB25 NEO does indeed have a boost limit, and its all thanks to a little MAP sensor mounted off the firewall at the rear of the engine. It seems that the only function of this MAP sensor is purely to let the ecu know if a certain boost limit, which is ~14psi, has been reached or exceeded and plays no part in the general running of the engine or tune. "How do I know i've hit the boost limit?", well for one you should know its a pretty good chance of being hit if running boost pressures around and above 1 BAR (~14psi). When you hit this limit it feels like you drive into a wall, the engine powers down hard until a set rpm and load point is reached before allowing you to accelerate again. Just a little warning, if your S2 is hitting boost cut and you still have the stock turbo, don't just bypass it, either your running too much boost for the stock turbo, or something is wrong with the boost control in your car. "How do I overcome this problem?", there are a couple of ways to get around it, one more technical than the other but both work to the same effect. The first way is to remove the MAP sensor all together. This will through an error on the ecu and is overcome by feeding a voltage down the ecu's MAP sensor input to trick the ecu into thinking the sensor is still there and the limit hasn't bee reached. I don't know the voltage to feed the ecu but i know it has been successfully done. The second way, the easier way, is the way i have done it. This involves just removing the vac line from the sensor so it see's no boost pressure, leaving the sensor connected to the ecu so no errors are thrown, and because the sensor is purely there to let the ecu know of an over boost, the engine will run fine without it. What you need: - A pair of Pliers or Side Cutters - A clean M6 bolt, used to block the vacuum line - A cable tie, to secure the blocking bolt in the vac line The procedure is as follows, and its that simple anyone should be able to do it. First locate the MAP sensor, mounted off the firewall above the rear of the engine. Remove the vacuum line from the sensor, i took it off just before the one way valve thing, the other end goes to the crossover pipe. Block the end of the vacuum line off with the M6 Bolt, i used a cap head bolt (allen key bolt). I also had to trim back some of the hard plastic cover on the line. If you pull the vac line out of this cover and want to get it back in there just spray some silicone spay/lubex or similar on the line and it should push through without getting stuck. Once the bolt is pushed down the end of the vac line secure it on there with a cable tie. Thats it. Just leave the MAP sensor side of things as is, blocked vac line just sitting there. Just one thing left to do, and thats boost it up.

agree'd on the power fc, overpriced for old tech. but i'd be shopping else where if quoted that price for nistune installed and tuned. the boards retail for about $400 then a tune after that. i think the average for a install and tune is around $800.

a spark plug code with an 11 at the end of it doesn't mean its gapped to 0.8mm, it means its gapped to 1.1mm. which is the stock nissan recommended gap. i ran 11's with out an issue for a year before changing to 0.8s, with out getting into it to much the smaller gap means the spark can be created easier and more reliably than at 1.1mm, which as Tom said is good for those of us still running the older factory coils. anyway, example of a ngk copper plug commonly used on RB engines BCPR6ES has a 0.8mm gap BCPR6ES-11 has a 1.1mm gap Chris, one thing you haven't listed is to check out the coolant and replace if needed. especially since its the middle of summer and i know SA has been having some killer temps.

85% at peak flow on stock ecu and 10psi sounds right. Keep in mind that once on boost the stock tune heads fast for 10:1 AFR's, get a tunable ecu or piggy back, take some fuel out, and you'll see that duty cycle drop.

i guess you'll find out if its filled enough when you get it charged and try it hey. just looking at you pic, is there a fitting/nipple on the top to fill it? i've seen positive accumulators like this before, but the ones i'm familiar with have a "gas" side and a hydraulic side, they don't get charged from the hydraulic side. you may be better taking it to a hydraulic workshop, they'd know what to do with it.

looks like its going to be a big turn out. i might be up for it, i don't know what i'm up to this weekend yet though.

not that i have this issue yet Dave, but is there any indication as to what sort of pressure to charge the accumulator to?

re-drilled?!? lol i hope you mean hi-flowed, which is also an ok option, but at around $100-$150 per injector, it comes to around the same price if not more than a brand new set of something like the Siemens DEKA ones or even Deatschwerks (depending on exchange rate). a couple of the downsides IMO to hi-flowing are: - even though its only when you get them, your car is off the road while they are off getting hi-flowed. for people that rely on there stagea as a daily, this is no good. - unless the hi-flowing process involves replacing the solenoid/actuator, you still have a ~10 year old injector.

Ecu part number is the same as mine. S2 auto ecu. Other auto S2 ecu numbers end in 811 and 810 That connector is just a common connector for those wires, ie they are all ground.

Yes, I got a flow test sheet of all the injectors, both at a controled injection and static injection. I can't remember off the top of my head but they where matched to each other with a very low variance, I'll check when I get home if anyone is interested. And as you said, came with new o rings and little tube of o-ring lube to use when installing.

I had no issue with them sealing properly, even though they where a slightly different shape body, they where no wider than the stock ones, and the inlet and nozzel seals was the same size as the stock ones, it was a very straight forward swap. one thing I just remembered was they where slightly longer, about 2.5mm, so I had to space the fuel rail off with a couple of washers at the two mounting points. No big deal though.

I think DaveB is (or was) running set of R33 GTR Rims, might be able to search for some pics of his stag. As far as clearance goes that won't be a problem, I'm running rims with a +30 offset with 245's, my car is lowered and I have no issues with the wheels scrubbing.

What's your reason for bigger injectors? I also have heard that STI injectors appeared to be a fit, as they physically look the same, you have to get more details on the injectors like the impedeance. XR6 injectors are also supposed to he a fit, the only problem being the length of the injector, as spacers are needed to adapt to the neo fuel rail. Have you looked into the seimens injecotr that are going around, you can get them with an electrical plug kit and a spacer kit so all you have to do it fit the injectors and change the plugs. These are cheap as well, I've seen them from between $500-$600 for the kits. I'm running a set of 600cc deatchwerks injectors, they are a different shaped body to the stock injectors but a direct fit, electrical plugs are the same too. They are an American company but the service is excellant, I got mine for $600 delivered (the exchange rate was really good when I got them).