QWK32

spotted a white S2 with aftermarket rims coming up the hill to the gateway bridge on ramp on lytton rd this afternoon about 6:15pm.

bump, if anyone is keen and wants to sort out a courier themselves that should be ok.

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woot, first time spotted in the stagea, and i only had to drive to the coast lol. on the way home i spotted a yellow S2 on old cleveland rd. i think it was stagman, i recognised the blue antenna parking led thing you have.

i'm in, i'll meet up with the guys at springfield maccas.

oil in the intercooler pipes is normal, its called "blow by". if you search SAU you will see alot of thread about it. it basically comes from the oil breathers and is blown back through the pipework by the turbo. this is why you see people installing oil catch cans, to baffle the oil vapour out of the air before it is sucked up by the turbo, but its not necessary. i wouldn't worry about it. if you are still interested in changing the old black joiners for new silicone ones, you'll find they are an odd size. they aren't 2.5 inch, and they aren't 2.25 inch. they are in between, more like 2 and 3/8 inch, you can get silicone in this size but its rare. most places stock 2.25 and 2.5 inch, so when you get them, you either need to stretch a 2.25 inch joiner over the pipe, or compress a 2.5 inch one down abit to get a seal. also be careful of the wide style T-Bolt clamps you can buy, some of the 2.5 inch ones dont compress enough onto the stock black cooler pipes, and also some of the 2.25 inch ones are too small to fit over the 2 and 3/8 inch pipe and silicone. i know that because i'm in the process of changing all of mine. some of the sizes: im sure the turbo output is the same as the cooler pipes. 2.25 inch the alloy crossover pipe (just before the inlet plenum) is 2.5 inch where the black cooler pipe meets it. so you will need to either squash a 2.5 inch straight joiner onto the black cooler pipe, or buy a 2.25 inch to 2.5 inch reducing straight joiner and stretch it over. and if your keen to do another one the alloy crossover pipe to throttle body is 3 inch.

i thought about it, but i'm not the biggest fan of buying second hand ~15y/o parts.

Mines blowing open at 1bar, so I've had to block it off until I get a new higher rated aftermarket plumb back. If your keen Josh let me know an I'll swap BOV's with you, yours might be stuffed and it's not opening properly so you get the flutter. Mine is working fine, just not good enough for my setup.

got curious and had a quick look in fast, i think i found what he is talking about. it is the blue highlighted one 11021B PLUG-TAPER. the welch plugs are 11021D.

i haven't seen anywhere in nistune where you can control the decelerating air mixture the way the SAFC does. unless it can be controlled from the main fuel map you'd still get the stalling i'd say.

caldina fails in the looks department. kinda like a tarago had a kid with a GT Startlet. and as ryan said, a smaller wagon, not really big enough to serve as a wagon, they're more like a sporty grocery transport. You can enjoy the specials from Catalogue AU brands after driving to the store. in stock form they make slightly less power than a stagea, but also weigh less. stagea's are fair slugs as stock and still even with basic mods, the 4cyl probably responds better the basic mods than the 6cyl? stagea's power delivery is also very smooth, caldina being a 2ltr would be more noticeable when coming on boost and hence it would feel quicker. i think it comes down to weather your a nissan or a toyota person, i'd say its nearly the same kind of relationship as the ford vs holden one. i like nissan, i've owned a few, and specifically RB powered ones, so IMO the stagea is the go.

Yeah, I forgot about the big day out too. They usually have smith street blocked off just past parklands. The motor way can get pritty congested around the exit too. Outer lanes should be ok though, I don't know the coast that well, could we get in another way further down.

sounds like a plan Matt.

yeah the 4pot Z32 callipers are the same as the R32 GTST 4pots. which is handy because most brake or parts places will have a listing for Z32 4pot pads and rotors. with regards to the brake line, keep in mind that the S2 stagea callipers are a banjo fitting and the R32/Z32 ones are a flared fitting. you can use the stagea banjo fitting on the R32/Z32 caliper but you have to either, remove the flared section from the calliper, you will see it at the bottom of the brake line threaded hole. or trim the banjo bolt down about 2-3mm from memory, so it does bottom out on the flare fitting.

i think it was TJ that has just gone though getting his all fixed up. it was pritty bad too and they managed to get it sorted out. edit: check out this thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...st-t284534.html

hahahaha, i've done something like that before, just make sure there is nothing the exhaust gas will melt lol. a custom front/dump like that is probably the best way to go. its basically what i did, and as you said, no clearance/rubbing issues. can you split the cat back section so you can fit it in the wagon? or is it a one piece? i don't think there is much to secure to up near the cat.

sounds good, i should be free and would like to head down. are we going to have a meeting place for the brissy guys before head to the coast to meet up with the goldie guys?

nah its not the same, you'd still have to rewire it. the RB25 neo plug is a different plug to R32 RB20, so if a R33 one suits a R32, than i'd say the R33 one wont suit the neo.

good to hear, i guess your lucky you had a spare one laying around.

The light on the dash, is it the synco light or the yellow "4WD" light? At a guess it's the 4WD light and it's telling you there is something wrong with the 4WD system. First do as kiwi said, disconnect the battery, it may reset the error. I'd also pull both terminals off and clean the battery terminals and connections, these systems can go crazy with voltage issues. If it still plays up after this you may need to get to the attessa ecu and read the error codes. An error code will point you in the right direction for a solution. Have a search in the tut/diy section, I think there is a write up on how to read the codes and what they mean. If it's anything like getting the codes from the hicas system you can do it from the drivers seat, it's just a sequence like, key on off 5 times, press brake twice, etc.... Then a light flashes the code on the dash.

I agree, I have the clear ones though, they are the same as the stock orange ones just clear. They don't stick out any more than about 5mm. They are a bit more expensive though.

I used a R33 dump, I had to lengthen it by about an inch and change the angle to get it to meet up with my HKS cat back (which was a perfect bolt up to the stock dump/cat)

R32 calipers require the same mods to fit as the R33 ones. IMO why bother though, they are smaller and older than R33 ones. And thinking about it I'm sure the R33 came out with 16" wheels standard so there shouldn't be a fitment issue with diameter, Just check there is enough disk clearance. FYI R32 rears are basically the same as R33 GTST rears.