QWK32

i think you need to be a little more specific on what the engine is from. do you mean a S2 RB25DET engine from a S1 Stagea, which is the same as a late model S2 R33? or do you mean a RB25DET Neo from a S2 Stagea? if its from a S1 stagea there is no option for a rwd ecu, or really any other ecu as the ecu plug is the same type as the R34 ecu but with a completely different pinout, a rewire would be needed to use a different ecu. if its from a S2 stagea, Neo RB25, you'll have more luck, they do make S2 stagea's in auto and manual in the 4WD models. not the RWD models though, they are auto only. ecu plug is the same as R34 and the pinout is basically the same, i think there are some minor differences but people have successfully installed power fc's.

i trail fitted some R33 callipers to my stagea and found that the R33 fronts stuck out about 20mm further towards the wheel spokes than the stock S2 stagea ones. R34 ones i'd say would be about the same if not a little bigger. i don't have 16's so cant say if they fit over the callipers, but check to see if your rims have enough clearance for a wider calliper.

did any crap come out? maybe something got sucked up into it and jammed it up?

that would be good, i'm keen to find someone closer to me that can tune nistune, 4WD dyno is good too. i just did the GT35R setup on my stagea, set me back around $3500-$4000 for turbo, injectors, ecu, afm and any other bits needed. i got some of the bits at trade discount which was ok, also did all the work myself and saved a heap on labour. i already had an exhaust and FMIC. if i were you i'd do the exhaust, some kind of boost control, manual bleed valve would be good enough. and get the nistune installed and tuned, thats basically what i did before the big turbo upgrade, and you wouldn't believe how much better it performs just by tuning the overly rich stock ecu and adding some boost.

Have you managed to get your nistune chip installed yet Scott? Are you going to use these guys to do the tuning for you? I'd be interested to see how they are with nistune.

have a look HERE for more info on the specs of the turbo. going off the garrett site its rated for 600hp.

bump

bump

injectors are sold, still have the CAS.

bump

bump, CAS price negotiable.

bump, prices negotiable.

lol, you can get a consult cable for around $100 depending on where you get it from, most of the software is free. Tom, if you can't find anyone down the coast with one you could check your O2 voltages with a multimeter, either at the ecu or the O2 sensor itself, should give you a good enough idea if the sensor is faulty or not. if you come up brissy way at all i have a cable and software and could help you out.

you'd be better off saving a little more money or collecting some supporting mods first. 1.5-2k is about what you'd pay for a new garrett turbo or even a hiflow. while thats ok for a hi flow as it bolts back in the stock position with stock lines, pipes, etc. with a new aftermaket turbo you'll also need cash for things like, oil/water lines, exhaust modification, intake/cooler pipe modification, etc. also keep some cash spare for a tune once its on, and if you get up above say around 220awkw you wouldn't be far off the limits of the stock injectors and air flow meter. i just went through a turbo upgrade and all up, with new afm, injectors, ecu, oil lines etc, it set me back about $3500. all labour and mods were done by myself so i saved a bit of cash there.

check the sizes, they are M8 size thread, mine where a 13mm spanner but i know sometimes car manufacturers will use a 12mm head. then head on down to supercheap or bunnings and buy a couple of the bargain bin cheepo $1 spanners of that size. they come in handy for cutting down into stubby spanners for those hard to get to bolts on the dump. p.s. i know you can buy stubby spanners but some times they aren't stubby enough lol. also its easier than struggling with ratchet sets or a longer spanner set that you paid a bit for and couldn't bring yourself to cut them down. from memory the stock dump is easy to remove, but bolting up then new 3" bellmouth/split dump can be frustrating as some of the bolt heads come really close to the pipe, it makes it hard to get a ratchet on them, hence the cut down cheapo spanners..

2, 2.5, 3 inch are all the same 2 bolt flange. I got a HKS cat back and it bolted up to the compliance cat with no issues.

yeah you'd have to get someone with a wideband O2 sensor to tune it for you. SAFC's can be had for about $400-$500 for the newer model, depending on where you get one. if your plans weren't to go to crazy with mods i'd recommend one, the performance increase just by leaning out the overly rich stock ecu mixtures is really noticeable. stock turbo building boost at 1500rpm is normal.

SAFC = Apexi Super Air Flow Convertor. basically its a little electronic device that apexi makes that allow you to manipulate the air flow meters signal to the ecu to trick the ecu in thinking its getting less/more air that it really is. this means you can lean/richen mixtures of the stock ecu to get better performance and fuel economy. they are good for mild modded setups, e.g. front mount, exhaust, little bit of boost.

S2 R33's also have the nylon front wheel

dont boost it up to 17psi, no more than 12psi should be run through the stock turbo. it is ceramic rear wheel and will be blown to pieces running that amount of boost. you cant just hook it up to the stock solenoid, it is piped differently and also need restrictors fitted to the lines to operate as stock, forget the stock solenoid for now and just use the manual Tee. boosting up to 11-12psi on an untuned ecu is ok, it will just continue to run rich when you put the foot down. you have a S1 so a chipped ecu isn't really and option, you'd be better off going for a SAFC or an emanage if your keen. or, just wait until you get your manual installed and use a complete aftermaket ecu.

2nd pic: every thing appears to be ok there, intercooler pipes are ok, the stock boost solenoid (the bit you have "Here?" written on) has been bypassed and replaced with a manual boost tee. stock boost control is 5psi until like 3000rpm (IIRC lol, been a while since i've run stock boost) then 7psi after that. the pipe you have labeled "To Wastegate?" isn't a wastegate line, it is the blow off valve return line for when using a plumb back blow off valve. the one labeled "Whats this pipe for???" is the turbo's output and yes it goes to one side of the intercooler, other side of the cooler goes to the throttle. the one labeled "Is this meant to go..." is for the stock boost control and is ok to be blocked off when using a manual boost tee 3rd pic that bit is for the stock plumb back blow off valve return line, the same one i mentioned before. it should be blocked off to run the ATMO blow off valve, check it is if you want. 4th pic it looks like you have a line there for an aftermarket boost gauge, not stock. other notes, 400km to a tank is good for an untuned stagea, search for the fuel consumption thread in this section to look at what everyone else is getting and what they did to get more. i was getting between 380-400 a tank on stock setup. and the reason you are getting constant stalling is because of the atmo blow off valve. it is venting off air that the ecu has already calculated fuel for, so when you back off and vent the excess pressure to atmo the engine overfuels and stalls. best get a plumb back bov back in there, either stock or aftermarket.

the missus had one of these, but the holden version, Nova. had 350k on the clock when we sold it to a friend 2 years ago, its still going now. all we had done to the engine was normal regular servicing, an alternator went on us, i did a timing belt at 300k. the only thing i think was of any concern was the steering was getting a bit sloppy. but as you say, its a good little run around car. id just keep up the servicing and leave it be.

as Bob has said, still a good idea to remove them just to help rule it out as a problem. i remember stuffing around a few times trying to set up the shoes so they didn't bind on, even though they felt good with plenty of clearance when sliding the rotor on, they still locked up once i started driving. you said you changed the rotors for new ones, are you sure the rotor offset was exactly the same as the original nissan ones, if its out it could cause the rotor to rub heavily on one side of the callipers brake pads. i haven't had to go through changing the rear rotors yet but from what i've read its hard trying to find a perfect matching rotor???

first thing i'd be checking is the handbrake shoe adjustment, i'd say they are up a little too tight and are rubbing on the rotor as you drive causing the heat buildup on the rear rotors only. it could be either the shoe adjustment behind the rotor or it could be the handbrake lever itself. i've seen it before on one of my old cars, never got hot enough that the rotors were glowing, just changed them to a nice blue colour. you said you've checked it but maybe remove the shoes from the handbrake assembly just to eliminate them as the problem.