QWK32

From what i've seen of nissan ecu's, TPS signal has no influence on fuel/ign map load point lookup. i haven't seen how the "new generation" nissan ecu's do it but on all previous EFI models the map load tables are a RPM vs a MAF lookup and Injection Multiplier equation. TPS only has effect on other limiting/enhancement factors e.g. pre-accelleration enrichment, O2 and knock sensing, or as you have said, throttle limits on the DBW. i know this is just another comparison of old vs new, but i don't see nissan changing there ecu programming that much between the years. i know this method of stock tune is used on the VQ30's from the A32 Maxima's, which i think is along the lines of the VQ's in the stagea??? so i'd think in theory, you would be ok to swap it over, you should get a more predictable WOT map access and tune, which is what your after. as long as the TPS was adapted to fit you would still get the pre-accelleration enhancements etc. the only issues i can see is if the ecu is looking for some kind of consistent feedback between the TPS and DBW unit, and if it doesn't get it, throwing up an error code or invoking limp mode. and any stock cruise control may be lost??

if that "V" in the top number is really a "U" its a Manual ECU from a 01/95 - 08/95 R33 RB25DET. the bottom number, with the MEC is basically a serial number. ps, i couldn't find a part number with the "V" in it for the R33.

I used a freash sharp blade in a stanley knife and it did the trick, just got to be slow and steady with your cut. I also used a small razor blade to get in the tight spots. Be carefull with a jigsaw, you may lift the paint, I'd suggest masking tape on the are you are cutting to help. Also don't use too small pitch on a jigsaw blade. If it's too small the plasic just melts and sets in the cut after you pass.

edit: beaten to it lol

the GTR subframe bushes (the 4 ones that bolt subframe to chassis) are longer that the GTST ones, about 12mm IIRC, dont quote me. the extra length of the GTR bushes wont let you get enough thread started on the mounting pins when you do the nut up.

Hold off making the decision until at least Feburary, there may be a few people out there interested but aren't willing to part with cash until the Xmas/new years break is over. Until then, broaden your for sale listings to other car forums, carsales etc. And if it comes to it, a better option than parting it out would be to put it up for auction at an auction yard like Manheim Fowles, you might not get excatly what you want for it but it saves the hastle of stripping and selling each part.

i think he would be talking about the one next to the auto shifter, and its to turn on/off the tiptronic controls on the steering wheel. when its turned on a steering wheel light will light up on the dash under the tiptronic gear display.

I have a stock side mount intercooler from a S2 Stagea, cooler is in good condition and comes with the air deflector/shroud, i removed because i installed a front mount. $50 pick up only at the moment, i don't have time to sort out postage/courier. Located Cannon Hill Brisbane. PM or reply here if interested. Picks on Request.

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Injectors Sold.

i just installed a set of these, haven't played with the damper setting much but the ride is very good. i've set the damper to half way. the spring rates are 8kg front and 6kg rears, even though they are heavier spring rates than stock i think it makes the ride much better.

Sean, its a pretty easy install, you need to trim a little out of the reo, i had to trim abit out of the dayz front bar but as you say, a dolphin bar should give you plenty of room. the only issues i found were: - the bottom mounting brackets were no good, i had to make up my own, used the ones they gave me but had to add to them so they would work. - i mounted the top centre bolt to the bonnet latch support, there is already a couple of holes in the support, i just used one of those holes along with a long bolt and spacer. if you use the spacer supplied in the kit you may have an issue with the bottom of the intercooler hitting the a/c thermo fan, i used a longer spacer and had no issues with the intercooler fouling on the thermo fan or the oil cooler (S2). - the bottom black plastic engine tray cover bit, the return pipe stops you from putting a couple of the bolts back it to hold this up, and if you mount the intercooler too low you may have to cut a section of it out for the return pipe. - not really an issue but the horns need to be bent back a tad to clear the intercooler. - the outside air temp sensor needs to be moved, i just cable tied it up to the thermo fan shroud. apart from that the pipe work itself was good, easy to line up with the stock pipes. there are some holes in the end of the chasis rail for the return pipe mount to bolt to. here's a pic of mine without the reo and here is a pic of how i mounted it up on the bottom. i used the 2 supplied brackets on the one side, just had to join them together and drill a couple of holes, the made up something the same for the other side out of some steel i had here at home. i've since tidied them up a little. good luck with the install

Finished off a couple other things. Made up some heat shielding for the new turbo as you cant use the stock heat shield. I used some ceramic cored aluminium sheet, its about 3mm thick and apparently good for around 800-900c. it was really easy to work with and form. it seems to be doing the trick, the cables and pipe work in the corner with the abs aren't getting as much heat soak anymore. today i also got around to installing a new set of coilovers which i desperately needed. on my recent trip up to my brothers, 400km away, with 4 adults, luggage and not the best roads, i managed to blow out the rear left shock and the right hand side was starting to leak. i wasn't too fussed as i had some new ones to go in, and considering it was still the 10 year old stock suspension, i wasn't surprised. i set the new coilovers to 50mm lower than the stock ones, which only gave me about a 25-30mm drop all round (i was expecting this), fronts are the same height left to right, but in the rear, the side with the fuel tank sits slightly lower than the other, i'll fix this up tomorrow. Give the springs a few days to settle then drop it down some more and off to get the alignment checked. i'll be getting some adjustable camber arms or bushes this week to allow me to drop it and still get a good setup.

oh ok, yeah i thought you meant the sensor itself.

He is talking about the sensor that screws onto the bottom of the radiator, your talking about the one that is mounted in the front bar, in front of the radiator. how sure are you of that? I don't know the S1, but as well as the S2, the R32 and S13 do have them, that's of coarse if they have an auto climate control, I'd think it would be the same on any Nissan with the auto climate control.

It's for the auxillery thermo fan mounted on the front of the a/c coil. It comes on when the radiator temp gets too high.

I think your too late, payments were already made to Matt at Nistune ages ago. Josh (pyro-ns) is away on holiday at the moment but i guess you could wait and see what he says.

The consult plug is the gray plug located at the bottom of the inside fusebox, behind the little coin tray on right side of the steering column. Resetting using the consult plug only resets any error codes you have. You want to clear the self learn, which unless you have a consult cable and software that can do it, just disconnect positive side off the battery, wait about a minute, or give the brake pedal a few pumps just to help desperse any residule voltage. Then reconnect it.

i have a RB25DET Neo, black plastic case Hitachi one. and a set of stock injectors for a RB25DET Neo. check out my for sale thread for prices and info. Link to For Sale Thread.

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Item: Stock RB25DET Neo CAS. Black Plastic covered Hitachi one. i also have the plug for it in the garage some where if you need it, just ask. Price: $200ono - postage extra Condition: Good condition, was working fine without an issue before removal from engine. Reason for Sale: Different engine setup doesn't require this kind of CAS trigger. Location: Brisbane, Cannon Hill. Item: Set of 6 Stock RB25DET Neo Injectors, 370cc. Came off a Stagea but are the same as R34 Neo ones. Price: $150ono - postage extra Condition: Good condition, were working fine without an issue before removal from engine, no leaks. Reason for Sale: Upgraded my injectors to a higher CC. Location: Brisbane, Cannon Hill. picks on request, reply here or PM me if interested.

I have a GT3582 aka GT35R, 0.70 Comp A/R, 0.82 Exhaust A/R. External wastegate rear housing. T3 flange. Its has a GCG part number plate on it. $600ono Pick Up This turbo came of a running car and the damage was unknown until the rear housing was removed to fit an internal gate rear housing. the exhaust wheel has small pieces missing on the edges, see pic below. I have been told its around $200 for a new rear wheel and $150 for a balance, then any labour costs to rebuild. The compressor wheel and housing are in good condition, even the rear housing appears to be in good condition. Bearings feel good with minimal play. At the moment i'm keeping this as Pick Up only as i don't have the time to organise postage. Located Brisbane Cannon Hill. Reply here or PM if interested, i'm on the forums regularly. i also have a brand new unused external wastegate rear housing to get rid of, 0.82 A/R.

you should really try searching on this one. there is a bit of info already covered in numerous threads. heres a couple i quickly found by searching "R34 conversion" http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...Bu-t271736.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...io-t195041.html

I'd think that being a non-turbo RWD it would be a S2.