QWK32

pull type, same as the R34's.

without a doubt go for Nistune, the support and experience of people using Nistune is only getting bigger and better. Bikirom, I can only think of one person (on these forums) running one. I haven't seen it in action, is it the Hex code style remap, or do they have a good user interface like Nistune does? Anyway, the biggest turn off of all these other Nissan rom tuners is they lack support. You have to check the prices but I just got a Nistune chip, installation and also got a single software license so I can tune myself, for around $450 IIRC. the software was just over $100.

Do you have access to a consult cable and software, or know how to check error codes yourself. Consult would be better because then you could also check what values the ecu is getting. You say its after about 15min, so I'd be checking the engine temp signal going to the ecu, it's not the same sender as the one on the dash. If this is faulty it could be sending the ecu into safe mode.

yeah thats what i mean, Ignition Switch Start Signal. With the CAS, what type of CAS did you end up getting, is it a black plastic case Hitachi one? because thats the one needed for the RB25 Neo. not the silver metal cased mitsubishi one.

i thought that if the car wasn't in park or neutral it wouldn't crank at all? cant say i've tried it lol. but because he has it cranking and even firing the injectors and coils, that could mean that its not the park/neutral inhibitor switch. stepping away from the loom, have you done all the other checks, fuel pump priming, fuel lines on the right way, coilpacks plugged in in order. who did the wiring on your car? even though you have power on the ecu, did you hook up the ecu start signal when you where wiring it? its a signal so the ecus know when you are cranking and trying to start the engine?

i was having a look at mine while i had it apart today, and i could find anything that looked like that. the 2 plugs together, the brown and grey one, go straight back into the loom and i cant follow it without cutting the loom apart. as lachlan has said, if you can get a part number off one of the bits we could run it through fast to get an idea of what it is. edit: a nissan p/n will be something like 23470-0V300 for example

I've just done an injector upgrade and would like to clean up and store the original ones. whats the best way to do this? i was think of giving them a degrease and then just spray them with some WD-40 or similar before bagging and boxing them up, is that good enough? or do they need to be coated in something else.

Installed a new set of 600cc Deatschwerks injectors today. apart from having to pull almost everything off the intake manifold to be able to get the the fuel rail and injectors everything went fairly smoothly. i was happy that i managed to get them in without splitting the intake manifold, i really didn't want to stuff around doing that. the Deatschwerks injectors were about 2.5-3mm longer on the mounting faces than the original ones so i had to space the fuel rail off 3mm at the two mounting points. even though the injector looked physically different to the oem ones, the electrical plugs were exactly the same as well as the o-ring size. they were supplied with a spacer to make them fit into the rail properly but the stock injector clips could not be used as the injector bodies were different. once i had it all back together, i chucked the wideband on and connected up with the Nistune ecu. i was really happy with how easy it was to get Nistune to run the larger injectors. it was as easy as telling the tuning software the old injector size and the new injector size, it does the rest for you with the exception of the injector latency which needed to be set to the new injectors. Started up first time, idled perfectly smooth, the wideband confirmed all was good. warmed it up and went for a drive keeping a close eye on afr's. it behaves just as it did with the oem injectors, really rich on boost from about 4500 onwards, anything under that was perfect. i'll look at pulling some fuel out of the top of the map to a more acceptable level during the week. not long to go, 2 weeks till the turbo upgrade hope everything goes smoothly with that aswell. pic of the Deatschwerks 600cc.

if i put my foot on the brake and plant the foot only the rears spin, weather it be on concrete, bitumen, or grass/dirt. even if the synco button is pushed. as MIKE has said, you need to overcome the brake force on the front for them to spin. but if i load the car up without using the brakes all four will dig a hole lol. i helped a mate pull his navara out of a dam he got bogged in, only time i've had all fours going, i was on grass/dirt and had the synco lock on. more to your problem, id be taking it back to the workshop, they may have left something unplugged or damaged something whilst working on your car. don't try an fix it yourself, if its a big(expensive) problem that they have caused, and if there is evidence that you have been trying to fix it yourself, i don't think you will have a leg to stand on trying to get them to sort it out and in the end, you will be out of pocket fixing it.

Which fuse did you check? The one on the back of the cd player, or the one on the in-cabin fuse box, behind the little coin tray thing on the drivers side. And you still don't have power to the gauge or cd player, anything else not working? Clock? Do you have test light or multimeter to confirm you have 12v running up to the cd player?

for a constant 12v +ve, instead of running a wire from the battery, just pick up off the constant at the ignition barrel wiring if you cant find one anywhere else e.g cd player. no point running another one from the battery. dimmer one, either dont connect it at all, or if you want it to slightly dim when you put you head lights on take the feed for this from the ciggie lighter light. earth/gnd easy. Ignition switched 12v +ve, from the igniton barrel wires or the cd player.

check this thred out. Link It sounds like it quite common on the stagea. i had to grease up my front left upper control arm bush where it meets the hub.

hahaha, fixed.

honestly i wouldn't worry about it. i've had a look at that solenoid before and from what i can gather it just opens the carbon canister to vent into the intake, maybe once a certain boost level is registered with the boost sensor or something like that, sort of the same way the older carbon canisters did with the vacuum actuator. i'd pull the other line off from the solenoid and block it as well as the one from the canister, don't join them together. as far as replacing it goes, try a going down to a few wreckers and see if they can spare you one. just had a look in fast, you could ring nissan and ask for p/n: 14930-AA000 Valve Assembly.

For the guys with that are waiting for the boards because Matt from Nistune needed a rom image for ecu part number, 23740 0V811. Myself, pyro-ns and Stagman got together today and downloaded the rom from Stagman's ecu. Emailed it off to Matt tonight who has already sent me through a reply saying the boards will be sent out tomorrow.

Darrin is still running the RB25 Neo. To see 250rwkw and just above can be done on an unopened engine. basically what i will be running is: - FMIC - Ecu - Fuel pump, not because the old one is dying but just for piece of mind - Injectors - Turbo upgrade, stock turbo would see 200 but not much more. - Full 3" exhaust - Air Filter with CAI running a safe tune and boost level i hope to see between 220rwkw and 250rwkw. total cost for me, around the 5k mark.

here's the vin check in fast for you. comes up with the blue screen saying this is an autech vehicle.

Darrin, fast can tell you if you have a factory fitted LSD, you can only just make it out from the japanese/english character mess fast give's you. do you have fast? if so enter your vin, and in the row of buttons across the top you will see one of them has a blue "OP" on it. press that one and it will list any options fitted. there may be some that are just japanese characters or a mix of english and japanese but you should be able to make it out if it has a LSD. if you dont have fast pm me your vin and i'll have a look for you

yeah, its like a second throttle butterfly that closes via ecu control. i'm unsure about any ABS integration though. even if you have a S2 or S3 Neo engine variant with the turbo that has the steel compressor wheel instead of the nylon one, the weak part of stock RB turbo is still the ceramic turbine wheel, and the reason why you cant boost them right up without risking failure.

i haven't done it to my stagea but did it on my 32, i used a piece of 3" pipe, cut the stock flexible inlet pipe in half about half way up the length, then clamped the two halves of the flex onto the steel pipe. i didn't add much only about 150-200mm of pipe and it worked a treat. are you sure this is the problem though, your cat could be overheating and becoming restrictive, whats the condition of the cat? also what gauge are you using to see the boost level? and do you have the stock or an after market dump pipe? even if beefing up the stock flex inlet pipe with a piece of tube doesn't fix the problem, its not a big job, nor an expensive one and it helps you rule out a possible cause.

that solenoid on the throttle body is for traction control. unless you have a rear wheel drive Stagea or R34 you wont have it. the 4WD model stagea's don't have traction control. Nissan used the same throttle body for them all, just used a blank to remove the traction control when it wasn't needed

look at pages 15 and 16 of this thred. i did a little write up on R33 GTST caliper fitment. and darrinspencer posted up info on R34 GTT calipers. i had the wrong disc in my first post so read my follow up post on page 16 where i used the correct one. should be a bit of info there for you. personally i went away from the R33 calipers, the idea of a more direct fit (not having to re-tap the caliper or bush the hub), and the larger rotors of the R34 GTT, to me is a much better upgrade.

i had both, a set of R32 GTST calipers and rotors and a set of R33 GTST calipers and rotors here. they are different, the R32 rotors are smaller, and a R32 GTST caliper wont take the larger rotor of the R33 GTST. best track down a set of R33 GTST or R32 GTR calipers and rotors, or even better a set of R34 GTT brakes.

if they are R32 GTST brakes that will fit but are hardly an upgrade, smaller rotor (280mm dia) and brake piston size. but R32 GTR(sumoto ones)/R33 GTST are good, there is some modification need to fit them up though, i know its hard to find in this thred but there are a couple of write ups in here. basically, you need to either drill out and tap the R33 brakes to suit the stagea mounting bolt M14, or locate a M12 bolt into a M14 clearance hole (14.5mm ish) with a bush/sleeve. some trimming of the dust plates on the rear is needed. stock stagea brake lines bolt into the fittings, if you remove the flare fitting from the caliper, but are a bit to short and the lines are pulled too tight once fitted, so get a set of new custom length lines or braided lines. best option for direct fit is R34 GTT brakes. front rotors are 310mm dia. compared to 297mm R33 ones. caliper mounting bolts are the same as the S2 stagea. also note that this is true for the S2 RS4. i'm dont know about the rear wheel drive, 2WD, S2 stagea's, i think they are different. and before upgrading you brakes check that your wheels will take the 4 pot calipers, the R32 GTR/R33 GTST 4 pot calipers stick out about 20-25mm further towards the wheel spokes than the stock S2 Stagea ones.

New rims for the stagea, picked them up and fitted this morning, thanks to darrinspencer. Now it just needs to be lowered some pics: