QWK32

i got an email from Matt saying that the board was installed and that he had mailed it back to me, the next day it arrived in the mail.

is that the whole diff, so the S15 diff gears are the same as auto stagea, does it matter if its a manual or auto S15 diff? or is it just the centre and use that stagea housing and gears?

pm sent

Did you have these rims on with the stagea front still? If so what was the fitment like? And how was the rear fitment, did you have to roll the gaurds or space out the wheel or anything like that?

lol, the whole house!! my car still ran with the errors but i reset them straight away, so i dont know if the ecu went into any sort of safe mode/limp mode. if you get them try the diy way with bridging the two pins on the consult port, you bridge them once to bring up the error codes and bridge again to clear them. if not i'm sure you'll be able to find someone open to clear them for you, even a nissan dealership service centre will be able to do it.

I think a LSD was an option for the auto S2 stagea. I know mine definately isn't a LSD just make sure that if you change to a different diff center to use your diff gears, or use the crown and pinion wheel from the diff you buy, they are machined as a pair. I remember seeing somewhere that a S15 center will bolt in with your crown wheel, can't remeber if they were mech or viscous LSD though.

i think there might be away to reset them using the same method as checking codes buy bridging the two point on the consult connector. Link to Ecu Diagnostics other options are, check to see if someone on the forums that lives near you and has consult cable and software can reset them for you. ring a few workshops near you, some will have some sort of OBD diagnostic scan tool and could reset them for you. or even some one with nistune software, i saw in there you can clear ecu codes, just like Matt said, i've had no troubles and no error codes thrown since i reset them once i re-installed the ecu.

the R34 and S2 stagea dont share ecu p/n's in nissan fast. there have been a few people on here that have found the R34 ecu pinout isn't the same as the stagea ecu, i've been looking for wires using a R34 ecu pinout and a couple of the wires didn't match, fuel pump signal was one from memory. but then don't R34 powerfc's work on manual stagea's, with the exception of the engine check light?

you have to be careful wit these JDM ecu's, they are fine tuned to jap fuel which has a higher octane than what we have here in australia. you could find yourself getting some pre detonation(knock) running the same setup it was tuned for but on aussie fuel. personally i wouldn't touch any of those JDM chipped ecu's, there are better options available in australia. p.s that ecu is a S1 ecu, year model 96-97, so its not a manual ecu.

while wrapping your dump pipe in heat wrap (fibreglass wrap) offers good protection for the carbody and other parts near the exhaust, it can also rust the exhaust/dump pipe prematurely. the wrap soaks up water when driving through puddles and in the rain, it can retain the water which gets through to the pipe and rusts it out. i have seen people that use heat wrap, paint over it with a high temp exhaust paint to offer a barrier against water for the heat wrap. of coarse if you have a stainless pipe you have nothing to worry about

got my software activation code emailed through tonight.

i think you'd run into trouble with the reo and supports running the pipe up the top.

no you could mount it down lower. i originally had it down lower but the bottom return pipe was hanging out the bottom of the front bar. i didn't want it sitting any lower than the front bar so i lifted it up a bit. i think the better option as far as exposed intercooler fins goes would have been the style where the pipe comes in under the battery tray and across the top of the engine fan. but then that raises issues with cutting a hole under the batter tray and the FMIC also looses it "stealth" look, with shinny pipes standing out in the engine bay. i might see if i can get it any lower another time, so the return pipe is just sitting lower than the front bar, i have to take the front bar back off again as some of the sections i cut out are still a bit close. one thing is you have to take a fair bit out of the front bar. i just used a large and a small stanley knife, they worked ok to cut the front bar out to suit the intercooler. also you cant fit the stock mesh back on, you have to cut the mount points off for these as they foul on the intercooler.

dont worry about the grey wire on the new Greddy TT, just connect the brown wire on the new Greddy TT to the wire that goes to your handbrake, you said it was a grey wire. the grey wire on the Greddy TT from what i understand, is that it takes it one step further for auto cars and kills the timer if the auto is moved out of park.

what model greddy turbo timer is it?

yeah i was looking at doing that but because of how the number plate piece comes down, cutting it out would leave a big rectangle hole it the bottom part of the front bar.

where are you located mate?

Got my ecu back from Nistune this morning, once i get the software licence code i'll have a play with it Yesterday i finished off trimming up the front bar to suit the intercooler. by the end of the day i had the front bar on and off about 50 times taking small amounts off the bar each time to get it to fit. the only thing i dont like is how much the Dayz bar covers up the intercooler, but it would be a shame to completely hack a dayz bar up to expose the intercooler anymore, i'm thinking of maybe getting some slots/openings in the bit of the front bar that has the reo behind it, the same style as what the R32 GTR front bar has. heres the finished FMIC install, i havent got the blinker/foggies back in yet, i need to got get some new bulbs.

got my ecu back from nistune this morning. plugged it it an fired it up, car started ran ok but the engine check light was on. plugged in my consult cable and read the error codes, it came up with Code 21: Ignition Signal Code 26: Boost Pressure Sensor Code 34: Knock Sensor Code 43: Throttle Position Sensor i reset the errors, started and stopped the car a few times and everything was still ok, engine check light didn't light up. i'm guessing its just a one off side effect of getting the chip installed. now just waiting for my software activation code i'd like to send out a big thanks to Matt at Nistune for giving us a good deal on this group buy, and a really fast turn around time on the installation. and also a big thanks to Josh (pyro-ns) for organising the group buy.

if tightening the belt doesn't work its time for new ones. belts usually squeak either because they aren't tight enough, or the belt or the pulley is worn to the point where the ridge of the "V" on the belt is touching the valley of the "V" on the pulley, usually its the belt thats worn. the belt shouldn't be that tight that it is so tight it feels solid or with very little play, running them this tight will cause wear on the pulleys and can even flog out the bearings on parts like the A/C compressor, Alternator etc.

boost control is the main thing i'm concerned about, there are a lot of mixed stories with the internal gates. some setups are fine and others have problems. i think because to start with i want to run low boost i will probably have an issue with the internal gate. lol even though i love the sound of a gate on full scream i'm trying to keep everything road legal, or close enough, so if i do run an external gate it will be plumbed to the exhaust. i've been looking at the 6boost manifolds, also the ETM manifolds, i'd say they would be the best option, most expensive too, but i'm just looking into the stock manifold setup first.

yeah i'm not going to be chasing big power atm, so the stock injectors and afm will do for now, something i'll eventually chase up is a Z32 or even a Q45 to get closer to the 4" mouth of the GT35R. yeah i'm looking into that, or mounting it off the turbo housing itself, thing is i can get an internal gated rear housing setup for a fraction more than a decent external gate setup.

i've already got a set of coil-overs, one needs a rebuild though. if i pull my finger out i'll drop them in to get serviced and they'll be installed the last week of november when i'll have access to a hoist and wheel alignment machine. but yes, i will be looking at the trans not long after everything is had been installed. i dont have the time to have my car off the road anymore than what it is, its my daily driver. but will sort out some more annual leave start of next year and concentrate on the auto then. the next week i have off i'm going to bundaberg, my hometown, where my brother is a mechanic, and where he works has an exhaust shop attached, so we'll have all the tools, hoists, welders etc to do the job. but we'll only really have enough time to get all that done before i need to have the car back on the road again. i'm just trying to work everything into the windows i have available, i've got the perfect opportunity to install the turbo so i'm going to take it. the auto can wait. today i managed to get the FMIC 99% installed, tomorrow i just have to trim the front bar to suit. i was fairly happy with the install, the most frustrating bit so far was removing the front bar, trying to find and get to all the clips and bolt holding it on was a mission. i didn't have any issues with the cooler hitting the a/c fan like others have had, the brackets that where supplied were no good so i had to make some up. reo bar only needed a slight touch with the grinder. the outside air temp sensor for the a/c was in the way so i had to move it. the cooler also sits on a slight angle, i'll have a better look at that tomorrow. pics so far:

i've run them before without a problem and i'm sure others do to. i wanted a cooler that i could pick up off the stock piping so i got this one. the last cooling pro kit i got had cheap alloy piping, this one has stainless pipes so i though that was good.

fine, they dont miss a beat, no break down, but it is something i have in the back of my mind. just sent off the ecu to get chipped. hopefully have it back in a couple of days.