QWK32

thats really f#$cked up man. it get on my nerves that people think they are better off with your stuff than you are. did you catch the kid or think they will? finding the bits you need, you could keep an eye out on import monster / jap auctions for the bits. there was a couple of stagea's being wreaked in the for sale section f this forum, someone might have the bits your after. or just type in stagea in ebay and a bit shows up, might have to search australian ebay. i just found this on ebay Wiper Arm dont know how you'd go with postage to sweeden though

sent my ecu off this morning. Josh, whats the deal with the software license, do we download it from the nistune site and activate it with a code? if so when do we get the code?

So after owning the stagea for almost two years now, and never really having any time to have the car off the road, or any spare cash to go crazy with the mods, i've decided its about time. over the next couple of months i've been told by work that i have too much annual leave saved up and i need to take some, so i thought, perfect opportunity to get some work done on the stagea. i already have: - Full 3" Exhaust - Jaycar IEBC - Pod Airfilter - Rear Strut Brace so very basic mods. by the end of november/start of december i hope to have successfully added: - Cooling Pro Stealth FMIC - Fuel System Upgrade, Walbro intank pump, maybe injectors. - Turbo Upgrade, GT35R - Coilovers, and some adjustable control arms (to help with camber once lowered) - Nistune first to go on, this week, is the FMIC, the fuel pump, and the ecu is getting a Nistune chip. i already have these ready to go and its just a matter of getting to motivation to start the jobs lol. as far as the turbo choice goes i dont want this turning into a discussion about turbo sizing, the reason i went with this turbo is purely because a mate was stripping down his engine and pritty much gave me the turbo setup. he had it on an unopened RB25 Neo that was producing 300kw at 21psi in a manual VL Calais, he saw full boost(21psi) around 4000rpm it was making 14psi around 3000rpm. the way i see it is, i have an auto, 4WD and a heavier car so with the extra load i should see boost abit earlier. i'm only planning on running about 12-14psi to start with until i can sort out other things like the auto trans. i know the auto will need some work to handle the increase in power and it is on my list, but i only have enough funds and time off to do what i've listed, and why i'll be trying to keep power around the 200-220kw mark. the only thing i'm still chasing up is how i'm going to wastegate the turbo, because i'm going to use the stock manifold i have two options, getting an internal gated rear house for the turbo, or welding a external gate flange to the stock manifold or turbo rear housing. either way the setup will end up costing around the same. thats the basic run down, i'll be posting up pics and progress of the mods as i do them. now off to get started.

just a question regarding the Nistune software, what happens if we dont end up getting 5 or more people in on the software buy, are we still going to be getting the software supplied at the group buy pricing?

just a suggestion josh, when you are collecting everyones ecu part numbers, collect the serial number as well. most people will share the same ecu PN (there may be some differences in year models and R34/Stagea). example of an ecu P/N for S2 auto Stagea (mine): 23740 0V812 example of an ecu S/N for S2 auto Stagea (mine): A56-K41 L14 9802 the first part of the S/N will be the same for most of us, from what i understand thats the type of chip in the ecu. its the last 4 digits that i believe are unique to the ecu, in my case 9802. with all this info should be easy to tell who owns what ecu. TJ, ecu is easy to remove, pull up the passenger side door sil plastic cover, its held on by clips that need a bit of force to pull up. then remove the rubber door seal near the passenger kick panel. the ecu is behind there, there is one plastic nut right up in the foot well, and some clips holding it on at the front of the panel. there are two bolts that hold the ecu back to the car frame and just the plug on the top of the ecu. edit: pic added of ecu p/n s/n sticker

i think it would be pritty safe to say it wouldn't be modified, modified ecu's usually have stickers or plates to say that they are. the consult port isn't on the ecu, i dont know for sure on the R34 but its usually located where the in cabin fuse box is. its a grey plug about 40mm long and 10mm wide.

sure is. its for a manual R34 GTT. weather or not yours has been modified already you cant tell unless you open it up and have a look. but i doubt it has been.

:cough: RB26 :cough:

correct, R34 direct bolt on. R33 bolt up with minor modification.

yeah the fronts are 290 with a 54mm offset and about 28mm thick (best i can tell from my rotor). i haven't had the rears off yet. it wont affect the abs system. the benefit is debatable but the basics are, R33 calipers are 4 piston fronts 2 piston rear vs Stagea 2 piston fronts and single piston rear. you also get bigger front rotors with a R33 caliper upgrade, up to 297mm from 290mm diameter and a couple mm thicker. but they aren't a direct fit as the R33 caliper bolts are a different size to the stagea ones, a retap or bush is needed. theres a few write-ups in the brake thred about R33 ones onto a S2 (if you can find them lol).

just sent payment through Josh.

im with kiwi. i think there should be a date that you need to pay by, so Josh can then pay Nistune and pass on the details of who has paid. but then i think it would be a good idea for people to just send there ecu's in to nistune when they get the oppotunity or can plan to have their car off the road for a week. i think this should also be within a certain time frame, 1-2 months, so as not to drag this group by out for months on end. maybe if we want to send a few as a group we could also organise this. e.g. say all the brissy guys that can have there ecu's available at the say time can send them all down at once and save a little on postage.

best way to tell is to check the ecu's error codes, there is a way to do this with by crossing two pins on the consult port (i dont know which, but a search will find the tutorial), or ring a few mechanics (nissan) and see if they can scan the codes for you, or, i see your in Redlands, i'm might not be too far away, i'm in Cannon Hill and have Consult software and can check your error codes for you if you want. even though the light has gone out the error code stays logged in the error code list so you can look it up.

yes, thats just for a tune. so once you get the Nistune chip installed you could use that trader to tune it for you if you like, he says he can tune Nistune.

Stooge007 - just to add to what Darrin has said, you should also check that there is a performance tuning workshop in your area that can tune a Nistune chipped ECU. it would be a pain to have the chip installed to find that no-one near you can tune it. there is a list of places on the nistune site, and you could also just ring around a few workshops and ask the question. by my counts Josh thats atleast 5 people that have shown interest. when were you looking at getting it done? i can afford to have my car off the road for a week in about 2 weeks time, from 17/10.

you cant, there is only a 2 hour window to make changes, even if you do have a high post count. just wait for nick or another mod to read this topic and update your original post. maybe just keep posting a new list up as more people want in. and......... copgy .......... mine stuffs up too, lol.

haha, you know i'm in mate. for the software aswell. just need to get it done the week starting monday 19th october, thats the only time i can really have my car off the road. and danMcd, nistune isn't available for the S1 ecu yet but there would be plenty of other options for a manual, just not as cheap as this.

noisey hicas pump??? hmmm there isn't a pump, its an electric actuator. its like a big windscreen wiper motor that controls a linear actuator. are you sure its not you 4WD pump, its at the rear of the car, drivers side i think.

i dont have a manual cluster but that light with the 4 wheels and axel image with the "S" in the middle is the light that lights up when you press the centre diff lock/syncro button. the 4WD light is beside that one on the right and is a yellow light that just has 4WD on it. do you have a centre diff lock/syncro button, its right beside the rear de-mister button.

cant help you with Q1,2,3. Q4 - use 98ron fuel Q5 - i'm not from that area so cant recommend anyone but as far as service intervals go, at least every 10k for plugs, oil and oil filter is recommended. if your abit more pedantic about your servicing, some people including myself will do it every 5k. Q6 - even though its a 10 year old car i wouldn't doubt the 52,000 km was genuine, most S2's seem to be coming over with around that, mine had just under 60k on the clock. japan isn't a big place so you don't have to drive very far to get where your going, hence low k's on imports. a good way to get an idea is to just take a look at the rest of the car, do the seats, gear knob, foot pedals and steering wheel look in good nick, like you'd expect from a car with 50k on the clock, or do they look completely hammered and shagged out like the car has +100k.

he means check it with a Wideband Air/Fuel sensor which is much more accurate than the stock O2 sensor. you say you have fitted an air/fuel gauge, i'm guessing its not a wideband setup and i wouldn't use that gauge as any real indication of an AFR. as far as checking it goes, by fitting a fuel cut defender you clamp the MAF signal voltage at a set level so the ecu doesn't think you have gone over the fuel cut limit. but what you also do is stop the ecu from feeding in more fuel to match the increased air flow above the clamped value, which could mean leaning out. now if your running stock turbo and you dont clamp the signal too low you should be right as the stock ecu runs richer than needed. but it wouldnt hurt checking the AFR just for a piece of mind.

my latest renewal with justcar came in at about $850 a year with a $400 excess. i could have gotten a lower premium but at a much higher excess. 25 y/o with a licence suspension in the last 5 years and about 15km from Brisbane CBD.

i didn't say powerfc was so much better, id actually go the haltech or vipec over the powerfc anyway, more tuning options. the advantage the powerfc has over the nistune is that every second person can tune a powerfc, nistune isn't as familiar to tuners, that plus the fact that you need to trust the tuner really knows what he is doing with CB soldering with the nistune. you also have to keep in mind that qld isnt like defectoria, we dont have to worry about epa and having a stock ecu, so we can get away with running full aftermarket ecu. personally i think nistune is awsome, and nistune is the best option for me (S2 auto) so thats what i'll be doing, but with a manual there are better options if your after a more modified setup.

http://www.nistune.com/ there is a list on dealer/installers on the site.

steven you have a manual and if you planning on chasing more power in the future go for a powerfc, haltech, or one of the plugin versions of the vipec units. nistune is a popular option for the S2 because it retains the auto controls, which you don't need to worry about. the setup tangles is talking about is for a S1 auto which is limited to tuning options. as for the flat spot have you considered the VVT change over. its around 4500-5000rpm and i'd think the ecu would slightly knock some of the power back for the change over. i thought its was quite common to see the characteristic VVT flat spot on RB25 dyno charts around that rpm? i've noticed that my car pulls harder after about 5000rpm but no really noticeable flat spot. i have turbo back exhaust, filter, and running ~12psi, i don't hit any cuts or R&R.