QWK32

looks stock to me. that daughter board connected by a ribbon cable is stock. the chip labled, "R32 F-TYPE", is the rom chip that gets changed when the ecu is chipped. it is a little hard to tell with your pics but as mentioned above, if it has been chipped there will be a socket soldered to the board underneath that chip, and the 28pin chip will be plugged into that. When nistune is installed it is plugged into that socket replacing the rom chip.

Still got the factory snorkel on the air box so it's not sucking in hot engine bay air?

I'm always up for a cruise, hopefully it goes ahead this time, the last one fell on it ass.

^^^^^ agreed. I've never heard of anyone using rb26 cams in a neo nor can I see any benefit, there are plenty of affordable aftermatket cams ie tomei, and not to mention you would loose the VCT with 26 cams.

Walbros drop straight in, plug is the same. Although you may want to look at bypassing the stock fuel voltage setup. I haven't seen the new deastchwerks ones, though I have been running a set of their injectors for a few years now and never had an issue. If the pumps are the same quality they would definately be worth looking into.

the first thing that should be checked is the spark. and at a guess, either a coilpack or the coilpack loom is stuffed. i only mention the loom as it would have been removed during the service and the looms can sometimes be a bit brittle with age. it is also common for the coils themselves to start to fail with at there age. the mechanic should be able to figure it out what the issue is, and the reality is that it could a a number of different things, coilpacks being the most common fault though. if he does come back and say its coils expect to shell out about $650 for a set of new spitfire coils. the coil pack looms were around the $200 mark last time i saw them. with a bit of luck the mechanic might not have plugged all the coils in properly, or even used the wrong spark plugs.

Check out Darrins build thread, Link to thread

yeah there is, not really a glitch but more like a big dip in the timing. if your hitting those cells it will feel like a flat spot in acceleration, and the more airflow or boost you run on the stock map the more you will feel it.

What model stagea? How much boost? Etc... The first thing that comes to mind is airflow cut. If its a C34 S2 you could also be hitting the factory overboost protection. Blocking the BOV will only cause stalling when backing off, it's a pain in the ass with an auto. If your not getting any stalling then don't worry about it. The only other things is you will get the occasional backfire.

I've been running my GT35 on a RB25 with no oil restrictor, for ~3years now with out any problems. I asked around about this as well and was told not to use a restrictor in the oil line as it is built into the turbo.

I doubt you'll get anywhere near full boost if you had a boost leak, I'd say it would be more along the lines of a timming issue, either ignition timing or cam timing. You said he changed the water pump, so the timing belt most probably was removed, it's possible one of the cams is out a tooth? Also check you base timing, if it's retarded the car will feel sluggish. It's possible as the CAS would have been removed to get at the water pump.

The auto shift logic is apart of the engine ECU and it all works 100% fine after getting Nistune installed. My S2 Stagea uses the same RB25 NEO motor and basically the same gearbox, except mine has the 4WD transfer case. I have mine Nistuned, GT3582, 600cc injectors, Z32 MAF, yada yada yada.... and the auto still works perfectly fine. the only thing i will warn you about is, after i first threw all the mods on the car i only ran a low boost 240kw tune until i sorted out a couple of issues. after about a month of this the auto was slipping like mad and taking ages to shift into the next gear, 1st to 2nd was the worst, and this was on the low boost tune! i took it into an auto workshop where they upgraded the valve body (shftkit) and tighten the bands and stuff like that. after that it was all ok and its still going good after nearly 3 years. So if you haven't given your auto any love yet i'd be expecting to with the extra power you want to make. didn't the R34's come with an auto cooler? the stagea comes with a descent sized one in the front bar from factory, S2's only though.

yeah i guess there won't be too much difference between the S1 & S2. i'd say the parts will be in roughly the same spot but the wire colours may be different. even if it doesn't fix the issue its another thing to cross of the list hey.

Chris, Is the ABS reported via consult or is it an entirely different system?

Changed the fuel filter at all? It also could be a failing fuel pump, they are fairly cheap these days so it would be worth swapping out for a new one. The dual voltage comes from the fuel pump control module. The ecu tells the FPCM when to run at the lower voltage, it is about 8 volts. It only does it at idle, I did a bit of testing in it out of interest. Ill pm you a little DIY PDF I made up on how to bypass it. What model stagea is yours? It's for a S2 but it might be the same as a S1. Looks like you've pritty much covered most of the bases. The only other thing on the fuel system is the fuel pressure regulator, it's on the end of the fuel rail and should have a vac line going to it as well, if the vac line has popped off, or the reg is cactus, it will lean out under boost.

If you have a consult cable you can run an active test on the thermo fan to see if it is operational. Apart from that it is only activated when the A/C is on and the coolant temp reaches a set temperature, I don't know what this temp is sorry. Have you checked the fan is still plugged in?

That will work, standard wastegate pressure, 5psi, with solenoid open, bleed valve boost when its closed. But I don't understand the need for dual boost. Something to think about Tom, no matter what boost level you are running, when you plant the accelerator the ECU uses the last row on the fuel map. You don't see this on a map trace but it does it. Without checking the table it is at about 3.8 - 3.9v TPS from 3000rpm and only about 2v TPS under that. So at the lower boost level you are going to chew through unnecessary fuel at full throttle, which I can imagine with only 5psi on stock turbo you are going to do alot lol.

yeah the S2's have the high beams separate in the grill. the S2's auto is basically the same as the R34's, where as the S1's auto is basically the same as the R33's. S2 also having the NEO RB25 where the S1 has the same RB25 as the S2 R33's. i can't really comment on the performance of the S1 auto, probably should wait for some of the other guys to comment. Tangles who originally posted this topic is making some good power through his S1 auto.

S2's already have an auto cooler so if your looking a S2's don't worry about an auto cooler. I can tell you that at 250awkw my stock S2 auto was flaring/slipping like crazy and took a while to grab the next gear. after a service (oil change, tighten bands etc) and a valve body upgrade, "shift kit", it was all sweet. i have now cranked it up to around 300awkw and its holding up ok after 2-3years at that level.

what are the specs of the studs your after hugh, i have a bunch of new studs in the garage i got for my old 32, i can check them for you to see if they are the same.

can't remember where it was but yellow markings/dots/bands on the vac lines indicating the restrictor location rings a bell, i also think there was more than one, maybe, lol

I think it's something like one of the solenoid valves adjusts in big increments and the other in small increments. So with the two working together you can get better resolution/control than units with just one solenoid. Why do you think the Mac valves are good for automotive applications? Some of the plant that I maintain uses banks of Mac valves and they are still going strong after 10 years, but this is with filtered / dried / cooled air. So I think they are a reliable valve but performance wise I don't know, they still only do the same job as all the festo, smc, norgren valves we use. PS my gizzmo unit uses a Mac valve and it does the job well.

Just gently knock the balancer on far enough until you can use the balancers bolt to pull it up the rest of the way.

Yeah PD was giving that car away as sebastian vettel won the F1 or something like that. I can't drive the thing to save myself lol I spend most of the time in the dirt, I only use the hand controller though and it's just too touchy with the really really fast cars. Well that's my excuse anyway lol New update is good, can save midway though endurance races. But they really dropped the ball with the new internal silhouette view, it's a shame they couldn't release some good interior views for non premium cars.

Yeah thought as much. I suppose it would take away from the ps plus feature of saves being backed up automatically if you could do similar for free. Demos and games aren't really an issue as you can just re download them, albeit a waste Internet usage. But it would suck to loose all my saves.