QWK32

if its of any assurance dave Nissan Fast shows them as the same part number.

just shell out for the splitfires, they aren't really that expensive for a proven good product when you consider it (half the cost of new OEM). your only other option is to run a butchered setup like you said, either in the form of a wasted spark 3/2 coils setup (falcon/commodore) or 6 single coils in a sequential setup which could end up costing the same as getting the splitfires.

there was a thred started i little while ago about a HICAS rack that was ripped off a subframe and what possible subframes could fit. Link i did some searching on fast as did BensDR30 and none of the p/n's matched up, but thats not to say that there wouldn't be a possible fit. have a look at MIKE's posts on the second page about the S14/S15 subframes, might be of some help.

haha, second member lol. you know there is already a stagea facebook group hey?

just think of it as like a clutch that slips unit you hit a certain rpm, then it grabs. a high stall will drive just like the standard one, if you watch the gauge when you put your foot down the rpm rockets up to about 2000rpm before slowing up and reving out normally. with a higher stall convertor say 3500rpm. when you plant the foot the rpm will very quickly hit 3500 then rev out as normal.

works well for me dave, stock turbo running 12psi. launches really hard, sits up just over 2000rpm and boost is right up there, often will spin the rear while stalling it up and on take off, and like you have read, it does tend to overcome the brakes sometimes. maybe because you have a hiflow it needs more rpm to get the turbo going and therefore you aren't making as much power down low as us with the stock turbo that would spool full boost with a fart. you may need a higher stall convertor if hard launches are what your after.

the S2 Stagea and the R34 share the same exhaust cam p/n in fast for the RB25DET, RB25DE is different. also interesting is that the inlet cam p/n is the same across the 2.5L Neo range, DE, DET, Stagea, R34 are all the same

S2 dont have sequential, its tiptronic, and the shift time even when in tiptronic is pritty average, about the same as the normal auto mode.

i think duncan misunderstood your post a little in thinking your ecu is the 23740 0V310. the ecu the guy is trying to sell you was only in a short run of S1 stagea's, and that it has a completely different pinout configuration than the other S1 stagea ecu's, i think i'm right in saying that there were 3 different S1 ecu's, duncan? and each of them had a different pinout configuration. but thats really got nothing to do with what your after lachlan. you need a S2 ecu, a S1 ecu wouldn't work and aren't easily chipped like the S2 ones are. the 2 ecu's you could use are the last 2 p/n's on the bottom of the second pic i posted, the 23710 0v801 and the 23710 0v800, as they are both S2 manual ecu's. though one thing you may want to look into is using a R34 GTT ecu, its the same engine. 4WD compatibility shouldn't be a problem and you don't have the auto shift logic to worry about.

fast shows that p/n 23740 0V310, as being an ecu out of a 08/97 to 08/98 stagea which puts it as a S1 ecu here is a fast screenshot: and here is a fast search of you ecu number, 23710 0v801 but look like you could use a 23710 0v800 with out a problem.

do you have a S1 or S2 stagea? S2 stagea's have the cooler/heater in the radiator and a separate auto cooler. i think S1's just have the radiator cooler.

ooops, lol sorry, that will teach me to skim over posts. best thing to do would be to pull the blank off and head down to Jaycar, RS Components, Dicksmith (if you know of one that still sells electrical bits) and find one that would fit. if you can be bothered mounting one in the blank you have, you can get small rocker switches that would fit in the blank, but cutting a rectangle hole to fit the switch in can be tricky. if you got one in black it wouldn't draw any unwanted attention either.

i think the point of the brake MC stopper is to help stop firewall flex from when you push the brake pedal hard, so no need to brace the ABS.

the one on the left is for the S2, its for the headlight level adjustment. don't know about the other one, i don't have it.

i'll be out there on sunday, gotta work on saturday. i'd be in for a meet up and cruise out there if its on sunday.

just had a look on fast, they are both for a RB25DET 4WD Auto S2 Stagea. the only difference is the production year. but i dont think this will matter on the S2's. it was just the S1's that had the different ecu pinouts between the year models.

not my suggestion, it was Danny's lol. but still it would be the best option for you Nickz0r!

i think its referring to the remote lock/unlock function of the central locking. your central locking works hey? its hard to see whats going on in the tailgate as all the components are behind the steel panel.

nah 90502C is just a washer, the one just under it, 90550M, when highlighted says "CLOSURE ASSY-BACK DOOR"

hey josh, all i could manage to find in fast was a tech drawing of the parts, i've attached a screenshot. but no, fast doesn't have wiring diagrams, they would be in a workshop manual. does it look like you have an auto closer motor in there? i cant remember exactly what it was like in there but its got to do with the latch. been about a year since i've had it all off, but if you want we could pull the lining off mine and compare it to yours.

just to add a little to what Ben has already posted, - none of the R32, R33 or R34 range shares the same part number. - none of the S13, S14 or S15 range shares the same part number. - A31 cefiro is also no good. - Z32 300ZX no good either. - autech stagea rear cradle number is 55400 - 0V600 i also check a few of the other jap nissans, like C34, C33, A32, Y34, Y33 etc and got no joy there either.

the engine fan can make a howling/whining kinda sound when it starts to fail. i did a quick search, check out this thred it might be able to help you out. Loud Engine Fan

whats actually pulled, has it taken a whole chunk out of the subframe or just pulled the thred out of the bolt hole, if its just pulled the thred its an easy fix. but either way you will need to get it fixed as a HICAS lock bar uses the same mounting holes as the HICAS. there are plenty of mobile welding guys out there, if the workshop you took it to cant sort it out then asks them to call one of these guys in to do the welding for them.

correct the sensors are mounted to the steering column and the steering wheel boss activates the sensors when you turn the wheel. you should be able to slide the whole steering wheel boss off and jump it over a spline. it will require a fair bit of persuasion to get it off though.