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Everything posted by QWK32
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dont know exactly on a VQ but the usual legal way is put it in the oil breather line that returns to the intake pipe.
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well if the steering wheel isn't straight that'll be your problem. there are two sensors up in on the steering column that tell the HICAS ecu that you are turning the steering wheel and which way. if your traveling along at at higher speeds, when HICAS becomes active, and because your steering wheel isn't straight the steering sensor is registering that you are turning the steering wheel, even though you really aren't, it will make the HICAS start steering. if your ok to do it yourself just pop the steering wheel off and line it up straight, or just take it back to the place that did the alignment and tell them to sort it out.
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only when the speedo cable snapped when i was on my way home from work, hicas started playing up along with the usual heavy steering. i was crab walking up a straight road, very strange feeling.
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I think the biggest complaints about HICAS come from anyone who has a dedicated track/drift car, or frequents a track for racing or drifting. And because every second person thinks of themselves as a race car driver or drifter they remove it based on what the real race driver and drifters have said. Personally I liked the HICAS on my old 32 but can vouch for the fact that once the tail end is out there, it's too easy to over correct because the HICAS system is also assisting the turn.
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it only kicks in around 80kph as Aaron has said. its basically an electronic actuator (motor) that controls a steering rack attached to the back of the rear subframe and is liked to the rear of the wheel hub with a toe arm. on the R32 & S13 models it was a hydraulic setup driven off the power steering pump. it turns the rear wheels only by approx 0.7 deg from center, so if your where going around a right hand bend you wheels would be something like this: front wheels // // rear wheels \\ \\ when you install a HICAS lock bar you remove the actuator/rack and put a solid bar in between the two toe arms to hold the rear wheel toe where you want it. edit: beat me with a much better diagram MIKE lol
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no its not, Nistune Board Type 4 is the one for the R34/S2 Link to Nistune Boards they have had this board for a while now and there are a couple of people on this forum that are running one.
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What Is Needed For Clutch Replacment
QWK32 replied to pork hunt drifting's topic in Four Door Family & Wagoneers
yep, the spigot bush that sits up in the end of the crank shaft, what the end of the g/box input shaft sits in, and it only cost a couple of dollars. -
When you installed the boost T you should have bypassed the stock boost solenoid, did you? Also I wouldn't use any of the factory vac lines off the stock solenoid as a couple of them have restrictors in the lines.
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Need Help Getting Power Out Of My Stagea
QWK32 replied to RS-V AREO's topic in Four Door Family & Wagoneers
Fist get a good ar filter if you don't already. Then get a FMIC and a boost controller and crank it up to about 11psi, this will be ok on the stock ecu. Then look into getting a Nistune Chip for the stock ecu, there are a couple threds already on Nistune if you want to get some more info on that. Is your stagea auto, if so you will need to look at getting a shift kit. You won't see that power figue with the stock turbo in it's comfortable limit so you will then need to look into replacing the turbo, either a high flow or a complete after market one. That's probably the basics of what you would need to reliably make that power. a few other things that may need upgrading, like the fuel pump, coils, etc -
yes, and on the same style diagram in the R34 workshop manual the Air regulator is apart of the AAC. so the R33/S1 RB25's still have a separate air reg but on the Neo RB25's it has been combined with the IAC-AAC valve.
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i think your right there Ben but looking at this diagram it says it is activated by the A/C.
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sorry, lol ok, those links you have put up, one is for cleaning the AAC valve, which all the RB motors have. it controls/stabilizes engine rpm during normal idle, cold start, when the air conditioner is turned on, etc. the second link you put up is for the Air Regulator, which is on the RB20. this valve also helped to stabilize idle and with cold starts. i dont think any of the other RB engines had one. the RB25 NEO doesn't. you can check to see if this is also the case with the R33/S1 by looking under the throttle body and see if you can see an Air Regulator valve like is shown in the second link you posted up, but i think its just a thing they had on the RB20. so on the older RB20 there were 2 valves to control idle. on the newer RB25's there is only one valve to control idle, nissan just left the AAC valve to do all the idle control. the AAC valve is also refered to as the IAC valve. so if you want to clean the valve that controls idle clean the AAC valve on the back on the inlet manifold (the first link you previously posted). but keep in mind that this valve is designed to control/stabilize idle on an already running engine. you may get a better start after cleaning it, but the main reasons you clean the AAC valve are, if your idle is too high or too low, or if you engine idle hunts around, say it jumps around between 600-1200 rpm for example. you idle is low, as in its barely turning over, thats too low for the AAC valve to recover. p.s. i know the exact problem you have, my old 32 used to do it, i cleaned all these valves and it didn't really help it, still had to tap the accelerator to get it going.
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a bit extreme but you wouldn't be far off with the stock turbo. if its 7 x100 mmHg, it is only 13.5 psi. pritty much at its limit. if you must use the stock gauge as a basic guide try to hit below the +7 mark, 11 psi (5.6 x100 mmHg). i've been running 11-12psi though mine for a while now with out an issue, and a mate with a S2 stagea is running 14psi, hasn't gone yet but i wouldn't be running it that high.
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there isn't one one the RB25 neo, its all done with the one valve. don't know about the R33/S1 RB25 though, have a quick look, on the RB20 its just under the throttle body.
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I wouldn't use the stock boost gauge as a guide, don't you have an aftermarket one? What does the stock one go up to? Isn't it measured in like kg/cm2 or something?
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Beacuse your car idles fine once its started it probably not the AAC valve, but becuse it's a quick job, 30 min, it would be worth doing anyway. It just unbolts off the back of the plenum, then when its out carefully pull the valve apart remembering how it goes back together, and give it all a good clean with some degreaser or carby clean. There is a good tutorial in the DYI section that would be worth having a look at before attempting.
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they are both the same thing. just one valve doing the job of two. its proper name as listed in the workshop manual is IACV-AAC Valve. its doing the job of the idle air control and the auxiliary/accessory air control. here is a page from the R34 workshop manual that shows some troubleshooting for different engine faults. issues with cold starting is listed. i know S1 isnt the same as R34 but its still basically the same thing.
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Idle Air Control valve. also know as the AAC valve. its on the back on the intake manifold and controls the idle via a solenoid.
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Adj Camshaft Pulley & New Cam Belt
QWK32 replied to Sydneykid's topic in Four Door Family & Wagoneers
either that or just put the breaker bar up against the drivers side chassis rail, unplug the CAS and give the engine a quick crank but you shouldn't really struggle with it, in a manual just put it in gear with the handbrake on, auto just put it in park and you should be right with just the breaker bar, maybe a bit of pipe slid over the breaker bar to lengthen the bar if needed. -
32's are around 38mm offset so they will fit but will sit inside the guards a little. as far as the rim width goes you will get away with it if you run the same sized tired on front and backs to keep the ATTESA happy
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during cold start the ecu ignores the signal from the O2 sensor, just runs a preset fuel map in open loop. so O2 sensor really has nothing to do with cold start idle or start up. i haven't had an issue with this on my stagea but the old R32 did, i cleaned the cold start valve and the IAC valve and it did help. i haven't been able to find a separate cold start valve on the stagea so i assume its apart of the IAC valve. but you shouldn't need a new gasket for it, i reused the one on the R32 which is and older and high km engine, didn't even get damaged during removal which was a bonus. i just put a bit of gasket goo on with it to be sure.
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its easy to figure out which one is which with a test light or a multi meter, just probe between ground and the ignition plug. one will be accessory on, on is ignition on, one is the start signal, and one will be permanent positive feed. they are the main wires you'd be looking for. don't know the colour of the wires though.
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yeah just unplug the CAS so it doesn't fire or inject. WOT and crank about 2-3 seconds (4-5 cranks), also make sure you have a healthy battery so the crank is strong. dry test just means no oil is added to the cylinder to help the seal. Josh if your getting readings that are all over the shop add 1-2 teaspoons of oil to the cylinder thought the sparkplug hole and redo the test. if there is an improvement then the rings are worn. if there is no change you need to do a leak down test and find where the compression leak is coming from.
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dry compression test i got around 155 across the cylinders. i done a mates neo engine and we got 150 across the cylinders, dry test.
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I agree with Andy. It looks like you've tapped into the wrong wire. In your pic, it's in the same row as the red arrow but you need to move it from the top wire to the bottom one.