QWK32

there are two power wires, one of the wires gets wired to a perminant +ve, and the other goes to a +ve power source that only becomes active when the ign is on. most likely that you have this bit done wrong. post up the safc wire colour and where you sent it to? eg Green wire to rpm signal pin ## on ecu. And we'll see if we can spot a mistake.

yeah it will be the same. i've trail fitted R32 GTST braided brake lines to mine to see if the fitting were the same and they were. just when you fit braided brake lines you omit a couple of junction boxes that the factory brake lines run between. but yeah the fittings are all the same.

can you get enough room to swing a spanner i you drop the HICAS unit off the subframe? i've only done the hydraulic style ones on sils and 32's. i know the newer ones have an electric actuator on them but you may be able to give yourself a bit of room by dropping it off the subframe.

fault code 21 is the ignition system, coilpacks are the usual suspects. ignition system problems can also include, and CAS, the wiring out to the coilpacks, or the PT's in the ecu itself. firstly, change the coilpacks for a new set of Splitfires, it will remove any suspicion that its a coil failure. even though the guy you bought them off said they were all good, they are still second hand ones. you've got to remember that second hand ones are still around the same age as yours, and they seem to have failed. best thing when you are dealing with coil packs is to get new ones.

the offset on the rims is terrible for a stagea. spacers will be needed to make them sit ok with the guard. don't know about the seats.

oh ok. i thought that was the name for the silver on the R34's and S2 stagea's. what is the name for the silver on the stagea's then? this site is usually a help but doesn't list sonic silver. nissan colour codes

i believe the S2 one is the same as the S1. the temp sensors all have to do with how hard the a/c works, because its an auto climate control the unit needs to know a few things to do its job effectively. say its 35 deg outside and the car ambient is 40 then it needs to pull the a/c on full to get the temp down to what you want it to be, 20 deg for instance. but if its 15 deg outside, an for some reason the car ambient is 30 deg, it might just pull the a/c on a little bit and draw air from the outside to help cool it down. same goes if your in the sun, the a/c will have to work harder to get the temp down when your in the sun than if it is night time. but this is mainly overridden when you set the fan speed/control to manual.

yeah i also got the sun load sensor. i performed the test at night time. i think you need to do the test during the day and parked in the sun so the sensor is actually exposed to the sun. the sun load sensor is the little round sensor on the dash up near the bottom of the windscreen on the passenger side. if i remember i'll do the test again tomorrow parked in the sun and see if i get the same error.

it might be related to the speed sensors on the wheels. i'm pretty sure the abs and 4WD system use the same sensors.

nissan paint code for S2 Sonic Silver is KR4, if you want me to double check post up your vin or pm it to me and i'll put it into fast and it will show me the nissan paint code for your car.

pretty much the same as the 32. here is a quick run down, i got this from the R34 manual but it seems to be a little different on the Stagea. 1- Check that the temperature adjustment knob is turn fully down or counter-clockwise, and that the A/C unit is turned off when you put the key in the "ON" position. Then switch the key off and rest any stop any turbo timers if they are running. 2- Start the car and within 10 seconds press and hold the "OFF" button on the A/C unit for 5 seconds. if you have done it right you will see every light and LCD bit light up on the A/C unit. 3- You use the temp knob to change between the diagnostic modes. you have to move it 3-4 notches to change it to the next mode. Now the R34 manual says there are 5 Modes but i can only cycle through 4. 1st mode: is just the first one that shows up to show you that all the lights and LCD screen bits are working 2nd mode: is a sensor check. the number 2 will show at first the a second digit will show up 20 displayed is normal 21 is ambient sensor 22 is in vehicle sensor 24 is intake air sensor 25 is sun-load sensor 3rd mode: is actuator check and reset, if an error shows up you can reset it buy pushing the rear defogger button. 30 is normal operation 31-32.5 is air mix door 33-34.5 is mode door 35-36.5 is intake door 4th mode: is just a output device check, use the rear defogger button to cycle through the modes. this is basically what they are 41 full cold 35% fan to vent, recirculate mode 42 full cold 75% fan to blowers, recirculate mode 43 open 50% 61% fan to blower, 20% recirculate mode 44 open 50% 61% fan to the foot, ambient mode 45 full hot 61% fan to windscreen, ambient mode 46 full hot 100% fan to windscreen, ambient mode 5th mode: is supposed to the the sensor temp readings but i cant get into it. if i push the fan button when i'm in the 4th mode a 51 shows up on the screen then a temp reading of 0 deg. pushing any other button does nothing except for the temp knob which changes the 0 deg reading from 0 to 1 to 2 to 3 degree reading. i just left it at 0. any one else have any luck with sensor temp readings?

yeah, its the outside air temp sensor for the aircon. there was a thred started about it recently Link to Thred

z32 brakes are the same as R32 gtst brakes, depending on the series. they are a 4 pot caliper but run on a smaller 280ish mm rotor. i'm sure you could get them to bolt up, most of the calipers share the same mounting hole centers, but i dont think they would be much of an upgrade. best go for some R32 GTR/R33 GTST brakes, or even better R34 GTT's

have a read through this thred of jason's, should give you some info on how his ViPec install went. ViPec in Stagea

yes, its why its pretty much one of the easiest options available for us. Nistune do a chip for the S2 ecu which is just like having a aftermarket ecu. also full replacement aftermarket ecu's are getting better. apparently the ViPec ecu can run the auto without a problem.

as you stand infront of the car with the bonnet up and look down behind the grill, where the horns are, its just to the right hand side under the a/c thermo fan.

its only before on the AFM and after on the injectors for fuel adjustment, ignition is only done after. anyway, is the ViPec an option for the M35? it has been successfully installed on a S2 C34 which has the auto ecu bundled in with the engine ecu, it is a quite expensive option though.

haltech interceptor is a good option, they interrupt the signals before the ecu rather than after the ecu like the emanage does. Interceptor is like a top of the line more tunable safc/sitc setup. Do they have a plug n play option for the M35? I know they do for the 350z and I think also for the V35.

Skyline is the same, pritty much the same g/box, ecu and auto ecu. The thing is when you hit the button to upshift the ecu starts its shift sequence where it richens up the fuel and retards the ignition timing to lower the output power of the engine so the g/box isn't put under alot off stress and load during the gear change. The ecu does this before sending the shift signal to the auto. The time can be reduced by using a shift kit on the auto so the auto itself changes quicker but you still have a delay while the ecu does it's thing.

i actually think the auto left in auto mode has quicker changes than if you use the manual tiptronic to do the shifting. i often find myself hitting the up change a second time thinking i mustn't have hit it properly the first time, only to find that once the auto gets its shit together i've shifted from 2nd to 4th. gear change time, depending on your rpm, can be fairly quick at low load/rpm up to about 2-3 seconds under higher rpm/load. not quick enough for my likings but i don't have a shift kit yet, its on the list. also the paddle shift isn't like the style in some other cars. it has a button on each side of the steering wheel but one isn't up and the other down. they both change up and down, the switch is a rocker type switch, tilt up to change up and down to change down.

spotted a sliver S1, black mags with machined lip, going through the Manly / Wondall Rd roundabout heading in the Manly direction at about 2:30pm today.

a below average day working on a car pritty much sums up everytime i worked on my old 32. a simple service turned into tear down of the manifolds drilling out and relpacing snapped off and missing studs. or installing braided brake lines i notice a blown out rear subframe bush, had to pull the whole subframe out to fix up. luckily nothing like that has happened to my with the stagea yet (....keeps fingers crossed.....) but then i've only just start modding it.

i'm also running the Jaycar IEBC in my stagea, works really well and hold boost perfectly, after about a week of street tuning i had is sitting where i wanted it. i brought one that was already assembled and i just had to wire it in so i cant comment on how easy/hard the assembly is. i went for the IEBC because it was like 1/6th the price of anything from japan at the time, and works with the stock boost solenoid just to keep things covert. and i did run a Greddy Profec B Spec-II in my 32, it also performed more than well enough for what my setup was. i think it comes down to your budget, any of the good name brand boost controllers eg Greddy/HKS/Blitz are good, and i dont think you will notice any difference between them on a street driven/setup car.

spotted a red S2 over at Cannon Hill shopping center at about 1:30pm today.

S2 stagea and R34 are the same. S1 and S2 stagea are different. R32 RB20, R32 RB26, R33 S1 RB26, and R33 S1 RB25 are the same. but they aren't the same as S2 R33 RB25 which i believe is what S1 stagea's are.