QWK32

nah, less than that, its like 13-14psi

shouldn't be, the tire profile is adjusted to accommodate the larger rim and still have the same rolling diameter.

the only other thing you could try if you were keen on getting something running on you mac is use Parallels or VMware Fusion and run the windows consult software from your mac, its the easiest way apart from a complete native install of windows from bootcamp.

its only a trial and then you have to register it, its the only Mac ported software i've found ConSultan i also have a macbook pro, and i've only just started using ConSultan (im still on the trial period), but i also run a Parallels XP Virtual Machine and use all the windows based consult software like ECUTalk without a problem.

i've been using a belkin serial convertor with a couple of the different consult software for a while now with out a problem. this is also on a couple different laptops, one's even a mac. is the M35 OBD port the same as older nissans?

i found some OBDII software on the net, haven't tryed it because i dont have an OBDII car to try it on. i think its called Scantech or something like that, might be worth a try.

as Chris has said, just get a set of Splitfire coil packs, they have been proven to be good and reliable. you can pick them up for around the $600 mark. maybe cheaper if you shop around. shoot over to the for sale section in these forums and have a look at a few of the site registered sellers, one of them might have a SAU special going for them.

engine light and rough running, i'd say it could be your coilpacks on the way out, its a common fault. best way to tell would be as you said, take it to someone to get the error codes read. even though the engine check light has gone out the error code stays in the fault code list, so you can look it up. you could take it to nissan, or any good mechanic shop should have a Carman or similar to read the fault code, just ring a few mechanics and ask if they can read nissan fault codes. another option is see if one of the guys on here with consult software lives near you and can help you out.

yeah those thicker grey multi-core cables are standard. i just had my ecu loom apart the other week installing a boost controller and noticed them too. i'm sure they run out to the various sensors around the car, like the TPS and CAS.

its probably never been unplugged before so it will take a bit of pulling and wiggling to get it off. but on one of the sides of the plug, in the center, there will be a little tab you need to push in as you pull it out. i remember mine was a real pain to get unplugged aswell, just keep wiggling and pulling it and it should come off.

no, i think you misread, it should be between 0.3 to 0.5v, not 3.5v. thats why you have an increased idle, because the TPS voltage is way to high. the TPS output scale is from 0-5v, setting it to 3.5v is like telling the ecu you have your foot 3/4 the way on the throttle, hense high idle.

engine doesn't have to be running but ignition has to be on, so the put the key in the ON position.

find some longer bolts and give that a go. or use a bit of persuasion in the form of a rubber/soft mallet to help the rotor off.

best i can do for you at the moment, is this pic. the black part circled in red is the TPS. the yellow circle is one of two bolts you loosen to be able to adjust the TPS, the other bolt is at the bottom of the TPS, you'll have to remove the covers to see it. once these are loosened, you don't have to remove them, just loosen. you turn it clockwise/anti-clockwise to adjust the set voltage. you need a multimeter, one probe goes to ground/-ve, and the other goes to the TPS variable output (without rooting though wiring diagrams to find it, or probing for it, i cant tell you exactly which one it is) either on the TPS itself or the TPS signal input on the ecu plug. at the TPS itself should be the easiest to probe. then just turn the TPS until you get the correct voltage. then do the bolts back up, and recheck the voltage is right and nothing has moved while tightening it up. also take note that you have to set the voltage with the throttle closed. another way to do it without a multimeter is to hook it up to a laptop and use a consult interface and monitor the voltage through that while you set it. i suppose if you don't want to stuff around with all this you could just loosen the bolts, slightly move the TPS in one direction, tighten it back up and go for a drive and see how it feels, if its worse turn it the other way. its not ideal and you would still want to get it checked properly but it may help make it more drivable until then.

i know exactly what you mean. i accidently did it once when i was working on my old 32. it feels like the accelerator is lagging, and then all of a sudden it kicks in. and yes, it is related to the TPS. i cant remember which way it is but its if the TPS's closed voltage is a bit too high or too low it will cause this. the tps is on your throttle body just before the inlet plenum. it needs to be set to the correct voltage when the throttle is closed, 0.3-0.5v. if your any good with a multimeter you can fix it up yourself, otherwise i'd take it back and tell them to get it sorted.

yep, S2 is the same. and Mattye, i'd go for a 6 heat range plug. i use BCPR6ES with out it missing a beat or pinging. and they already come gapped to 0.8, but check them anyway.

....... 'waits for MIKE to chime in' .......lol

should work ok with it, since it retains the nissan programming, just modified.

i'd say its not. in the attached screen shot you can see the 6th letter along in the model code (with the small red line i drew under it) is a Q. in the model code breakdown window the the Q with the red line i drew before it means just a normal GTR. further down you will see the blue line i drew with the letter W next to it that means V-Spec.

here you go mate,

if you managed to install the base program ok. that error would be to do with the databases. you need to go into fast setup and tell it where the database cds are. i'm runnning fast version 2003, so your menu's may be similar. go into NFSET from the Fast Menu and in the CDROM Setup tab tell it where the CD databases are. heres a pic of what i'm talking about:

so you have a copy on dvd, and a copy on your notebook? and neither of the copies work? post up a screen shot of the error message.

this vin kept coming up with errors, but the model code showed this: