QWK32

i agree with what KiwiRS4T has said. if money isn't a problem go for the Vipec, but if your on a budget than the nistune chipped ecu is the best option for the auto. thats what i'll be doing when i get around to it.

this lady pulled up at work and we were watching her stuffing around in her car for about 10 minutes. finally she saw us watching her and come up to the boss and I and said that for some reason she couldn't get her keys out of the ignition. we went up to the car, put the auto in park and pulled the keys out lol ps. this one also got me when i first got me stagea lol (first auto i'd ever owned or even really driven)

i must have been luck, i got the cargo cover/blind thing, the cargo net, and a moulded soft plastic boot liner.

yeah the in the S2 C34 can do the same configurations. comes in handy.

did a service on the wagon today and also did the fuel filter. i can confirm that the Ryco Z200 fits a S2 stagea. i have 76000 on the clock and the filter that was in there was a genuine nissan one so i'm not sure if it has ever been changed. anyway after i pulled it out an tipped the fuel out of the filter all this black crap come out. as Kiwi has said, its definately something that needs to be changed if you haven't already done so.

yeah i do at first, but then a quick turn of the volume knob on the cd player makes those noises go away if the noises get louder then so does the cd player lol

hey guys, i was looking around on ebay and found these, clear front indicators for the S1 and thought some of you may be interested. Link

you cant go wrong with splitfires, they are a proven brand. dont bother with the JJR ones, you get what you pay for. or you can run commodore/falcon coils, they are 3 coils in one block and each coil handles two cylinders "3/2 coils", do a search on wasted spark you'll find heaps of info. the only benefit is they are cheaper to replace if they burn out/blow up. it isn't always better running the wasted spark commodore/falcon coils over splitfires. i remember a write up on this testing all different coil pack setups, and the power that the stock 3/2 coils output, while they had higher MJ power per coil than the direct ignition coils, that power is shared between two spark plugs so it worked out less MJ per plug than running a good direct ignition or even 6 single coil setup.

just spotted a white C34 going along Old Cleveland Rd through Cooparoo, just before Cavendish Rd. i tried to catch up but got caught at the lights, lol. looked like a S2 Autech, or at least had the Autech rear wing and S2 rear lights. could make out much more than that, too much traffic.

on mine only some of the options come up in english others are half japanese half english, enough to make most of them out though. one thing you could check is what font the program is using. if you go into the start menu item and open FAST Setup, choose fonts down the bottom, make sure the Script is Western. and i'm using MS Gothic font.

if you have downloaded it of the web then it is most probably the older version that only covers up to about 2001-2002. this is the version i have and cant see new model stageas and skylines. i'm not sure if you can download the newer version of fast yet, i know a few people have a copy of it courtesy of Chook.

your alot more game than i would be, pulling down on the pipe, i'd be worried about damaging the turbo casting. lol just take it to the exhaust shop you went to and see if they'll fix it up for you, if you go in they aren't too busy, and you have cash with you, they'll probably fix it up cheap for you. it will only need to be cut and re-angled, maybe a small length added into it. shouldn't need to take the pipe out to fix up, we didn't when i fitted mine.

old thred revival ftw

sounds like you have a vacuum leak mate. have you checked that you hooked everything back up? there aren't any vacuum line floating around not hooked up are there? it will still run ok even if you block up the stock bov and dont run one. how far out of bris are you?

just to protect it a bit from the sun. my old R32 had the same style dash and after a few years of the aussie sun the plastic trim around the aircon vents started to warp and the vinyl layer started to bubble in a couple of spots. i've seen others that are heaps worse that with splits in the vinyl dash layer. but i guess if your car is parked undercover at work and at home you should be right. at the moment i use one of those windshied reflector things to protect my dash when i'm parked at work.

C34's dont have a plastic dash either, its a soft rubber/vinyl dash.

i dont know if it will fit or not but what i do know is that the R33 radiator core is thicker than the R34 one.

the reason its a waste of time is the fact that the standard O2 sensor is a narrow band sensor. it only has a small resolution 0-1v. if you search google for narrowband sensor you'll see some graphing of the voltage output/AFR reading. its not very accurate but enough for the stock ecu to get a sample. what you need to get is a wideband O2 sensor setup. these work on a higher resolution 0-5v and give you an accurate AFR reading. these are a completely different type of O2 sensor and alot more expensive. i picked myself up a basic tech edge wideband setup for about $350. now to answer your question, you can run it off the standard O2 sensor just by splicing it into the O2 signal wire at the ecu. no need to install another sensor, its just a waste of money. just remember the only real reading you will get from it is that if your running rich or lean, but not by how much.

i was thinking more along the lines of autometer or drift brand or similar. you get everything with the gauge when you buy defi, no need to buy senders and sensors seperatly. but yeah, i think if you were to buy 3 seperate defi gauges they would be around the same cost as the all-in-one unit.

thrided, definatly the gauges you need, as most people already have a separate boost gauge anyway. but at a price of $700-$800 you could just as easily get yourself three separate 52mm gauges and a din mount gauge holder for atleast half the cost. but the quality of the defi unit would be far superior.

here is a FAST screenshot of all the ecu part numbers for the WC34 series. the S1 auto, turbo, 4WD ecu's i have put a red line on. the S2 are down the bottom.

is that the little black box with "boost sensor" written on it that you are talking about? if so just tee it into another vacuum line, no need to tap out another fitting for it.

hmmmmm....... swine flu

ok. i drew some arrows on the pic you gave. the larger pipe with the red arrow pointing to it, just block off, if you dont you will be creating a large vacuum leak. the smaller one with the yellow arrow, run it to the new bov.

to add to this, the RB20DET out of a R32 comes factory with a bov, same engine in an A31 cefiro does not